so i met my mom for lunch today and as I was driving home it started to overheat (damn manual fan switch installed by PO) didn't hit the red line but was pretty close. I hit the switch and it came back to 220 and i turned the fans off. everything looked fine and stayed steady but right before i got home there was a clunk like you always hear when a car overheats and dies, not a loud clunk but it was there. well i was able to coast into my parking space and tried starting it again. it clunks when it turns over but will run for about a second then dies. haven't had a chance to pull a code as I now have to ride my bike to work but i would like any ideas on what it might be. also no fluids leaking but does smell like gas.

 

let us know if and what codes you have...

 

so I think i'm getting a code 46. when i pull the code it gives e the standard flashes 3 times then I get 4 flashes, pause, 6 flashes. if that is a 46 then it is vats but how would vats kill it while running? also the engine turns over just like it should but it never fires. I replaced the coil to cap wire and that didn't fix it. there is also a ticking sound like spark jumping somewhere but i can't see an sparks or anything. pugged a spark tester into the cap wire and can't see any lights going through there. Possibly a bad coil? i have a pretty new (<3 months) MSD Streetfire coil in there but now I'm wondering. i also don't get how it might be vats if the cars is trying to start

 

I'm not too familiar with VATS since my car doesn't have it (thank God) but I think vats only disables the fuel pump... which would not provide pressure to the injectors. Are you sure it codes 46? When you jump pins A and B and turn the key, the you will get code 12 three times ( one flash, pause, two flashes, this happens 3 times) and then each code tripped flashes 3 times before it goes to the next code, the final code (when its done) is code 12 again.

I would verify 2 things, see if you have spark (get an old spark plug and pull one of the wires and just place it close/touching the block so it'll ground. Have someone turn over the car and look at the tip of the sparkplug to see if you have spark). If so, then get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up the the schrader valve and see what your fuel pressure is at...could be fuel pump going bad and the computer thinks its vats...

 

vats disables the fuel pump and the starter

 

broke back into it today with an electrician friend of mine. still just getting the code 46 but we verified all of the vats systems are working properly according to the diagrams. car turns over but doesn't fire. i can hear the fuel pump working and all of the ignition system is less than a year old except the ignition cylinder but that is doing it's job just fine. i did get a hint of combustion today but no start just a little sign of life. could it possibly be the timing is off? i don't have a timing light so i don't want to buy one unless it is a viable cause.

 

have you replaced the ignition module? I had a similar issue once where my T/A wouldn't start up. I would have it checked out, its inside/below the distributor cap...

 

i was just looking into the ICM and think it might be going in the right direction. i did recently put in an msd streetfire coil and i hear coils can burn through modules. is it possible that the ignition coil is putting too much stress on the module and blew it out?

 

so i cleared the codes today and tried seeing if i could get one to show up. no codes just keeps flashing the 12 for the diagnostic system. haven't had a chance to get a new ignition control module as i have a new baby right now but i was just curious to see if anyone else thinks that might be what's causing the problem. also the car does rock a little when trying to start. don't know if it helps but something i noticed

 

so curious if anyone has had any trouble with the accel ignition control module for 90-92 tpi cars. I hear accel is kind of hit or miss but is the only brand i've heard of that makes one for the 90-92 cars specifically that isn't just an oe replacement. i don't want to burn through more of them since i have a mostly modded ignition (i think the actual distributor is the only stock part left after this) and i believe that is what caused my current one to go out. thanks in advance for any feedback

 

from what I've heard, most of our cars like oem ignition modules and haven't heard too many good things about the Accel modules...

 

i got it fixed today. it still had the original control module in there that warned removal would void warranty. lol damn 20 year old electronics

 

nice bro.

 

haha, glad you got it running right...