My car just started idling all over and trying to cut off whenn im in gear stoped at a light and has cut out when reversing. When i get to a light i have to put it in neutral and keep slightly feathering the gas or it starts to stumble. Is it my spark plugs or a possible dirty or bad egr? where is the egr so i can check it and see if its dirty. 87 5.7 350 trans am gta

 

just drove it home from work i cant come to a stop without keeping in in neutral and giving it gas. As soon as i let off the gas it stubles and dies someone help me diagnose so i can fix it please

 

The same thing was happening to me. I have a low mileage 305 TPI and the idle when stopped in drive or coasting at low speeds was rough and all over the place. I looked for answers on here and a lot of fingers pointed to faulty fuel injectors. I thought of replacing them all, but it's costly and time consuming if you do it yourself, and downright expensive if a shop does it for you. Plus, the solution of replacing the injectors was getting mixed reviews anyway.

A friend of mine who knows a hell of a lot more about engines and maintenance than I do told me that for $18, Wal-Mart does a high pressure flush of your fuel system and injectors with fuel injector cleaner. For $18, I thought I'd give it a try. The worst that could happen would be cleaner fuel lines and injectors and I'd be out a little bit of money, as opposed to hundreds of dollars.

The engine runs so much better now it's crazy. It would be a great place for you to start. Best of luck!

 

You are postponing the inevitable. The Multecs are not parts that can be cared for and they will last. They wear out. The coils go bad and then they will not work, no matter what wal-mart does. If you are going to have fun with these cars and want some semblance of reliability out of them, get new injectors. Search it... not just at TGO. You will find HUNDREDS of threads with problems caused by Multec injectors. Go to fuelinjectorconnection.com and look at the videos. They are telling.

Now, to the OP. Your EGR valve is under the upper plenum. It's mounted to the lower plenum. Right in the middle. It's about as big around as a pop can. What is your background on car maintenance? Removing and "cleaning" the EGR valve is not just that simple. You need to remove the upper plenum. I recommend doing some troubleshooting before you just take a shot in the dark. Start with ECM codes. Do you have any? How many miles on the car, any mods?

 

Stealth, my background in car maintenance is almost nonexistent. I have no training at all. I know a little theory but little else. I don't even have any tools to tell me if I'm getting any codes. What I can tell you is that I have a 305 TPI with just over 47K original miles on it. And I really did notice a difference after the service. Right now my funds are a bit limited, so swapping out the injectors is not an option for me.

 

THEY CANT BE CLEANED RIGHT WHILE IN THE CAR,THAT METHOD JUST FORCES DIRT INTO THE SCREENS.

AND ITS NOT A DIRT ISSUE,THE COIL INSIDE SHORTS.
NO CLEANING WILL FIX THAT.

HOPE YOU HAVE AAA.

ALSO YOU CAN DAMAGE THE ECM.(AND THE CATALYST)

you dont need a shop to do it,get reman injectors from southbay or fic and do some research on google,its not that hard to do.

 

I am brand new to engine work but i have been trying things. Changed my plugs now it fires right up and no code being thrown while idling but i did find vacuum leaks.

 

mav75,
I can certainly understand that! I had to save for a month to buy my Bosch III's. I hope you understand that I'm advising the OP to not rely on those piece of junk injectors to last. I'm not bashing your advice, just stating the facts as I see them. Heck, I'm on a tight budget too, but I look at it like this... If I don't spend the $175 now, then I'll be spending that on a tow or I'll be spending my valuable time when it won't start for me or get me to work. They need to be swapped, not just cleaned. Otherwise, you are gonna be chasing problems the whole time you have the car.

Take your lunch to work and drink Folgers instead of Starbucks for a month. Then you'll have your Bosch III's and OH BOY LOOK OUT! I am way happy with my car now. I am starting to get that fun feeling again. I don't worry (as much) about it leaving me on the side of the road anymore. Instead, I leave two black stripes on the road with the A/C on. Know what I'm sayin'

 

Does you car have a thumpy pickup and does it even have any pickup?

 

Hey Stealth908 and Regal301...

You were both right. A week ago I lost my engine on the highway. I wound up needing a new fuel pump and a set of injectors. I bought a set of Bosch III's from Southbay. I also got a tune up for good measure. The idle is rock solid and there is so much more power that just wasn't there.

Pennywise, dollar foolish...lesson learned.

 

well i have a similar issue, when I am idle in gear, the engine will drop from 700rpm to 450 and jump back to 700. feels like its going to die but doesnt. It does this very consistently, 2 seconds at 700rpm then it drops, then back to 700 for 2 sec, drops and repeat... its not eractic idling. normal driving is good, no hesitation, but i can tell it burns rich, i can smell it.
i have replaced the iac, and 02 sensor, the timing is good, plugs all look good. no engine codes. i do know my egr valve needs some work, but its been like that for 10 years.
i have only driven it about 1,000 miles in the last 6 months, so not much driving and it started about 300 miles ago.
i am thinking maybe my tsp sensor? or is it time to fix my egr valve? or maybe one of my fuel injectors?
or what?

 

update now the engine reves up from 500 to 1k and back over and over. so ive obviously still got vacuum leaks somewhere, time to pull more lines