I have been searching randomly on several occasions, and found much useful information in regards to my current predicament, but not enough for me to complete the project (which would ideally be drivable by the end of this weekend.)

So, my fuel lines have steadily rusted, and after a series of rubber hose and clamp patches, my engine became fuel starved... After the final and most recent patch, I was using rubber lines with a few pieces of hard line to fill it in.

Since the car wouldn't stay running, I ordered coils of hard line. I have now the fully bent fuel line (from filter to engine bay). I also have a new fuel filter, and am unable to use the fittings from the old one.

I am able to double flare the lines, but as I have read, and seen on my own car, the TPI fuel injection lines use a saginaw flare (I've also seen it called an o-ring flare). I am willing to use some rubber hose and clamps to ease the job, though i would rather finish it closer to factory specs, BUT...

THE MAIN PROBLEM:
How do I connect my fuel filter??? I can't recreate the proper flare for the fitting on the filter, and the old filter and fittings are useless.

BTW... 1985 IROC-Z 305 TPI Automatic. No major modification to fuel delivery to affect this post question.

 

You could buy something like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-800-170/

And use a compression fitting to attach the two together.

There are also these fittings (identical, just diff manufacturers)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2608/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-648060/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-991955ERL/

I believe that is the correct size on the o-ring side and then you'd need an appropriate size adapter from hard line to AN. Should be 3/8" line to -6AN in this case.

Since the adapters dont have any way of rotating once they're in place, that AN-hard line would need it or its going to be a PITA installing it and replacing the filter. The first option the threaded nut is separate from the line and will allow you to tighten the fitting easily. I havent played with AN so I dont know what they have available but just keep in mind one of those two pieces needs to be free to rotate because the hard line obviously will not.

 

Use a universal fuel filter with AN fittings.

 

Thanks for the links, and quick response.

Sadly, I think I will have to go the route suggested (using the compression fittings with the replacement line). I was hoping to eliminate splices in the line, but I would rather be able to drive than wait for a solution.

While on the subject, Is it known if fuel line splices hinder flow to a noticeable effect? I have some plumbing knowledge, and am trying to apply to this similar pressurized system, but anyone have experience

As a side not, while looking on a corvette TPI forum, I found a post stating that GM still carries part number 22527595 (Group 3.163): a straight piece of 3/8" steel fuel line with a correct "O-Ring" fitting with a rubber O-Ring on both ends. The line is about 8 feet long or-so. I haven't researched this, and from the post it is closer to $20, compared to the $5 after market route. Also of note, by my measurements, still not long enough to complete the job without splicing (thought I suppose the fuel filter could be moved...)

 

Well you could buy the tool to make the flare, but its very expensive. That or find someone that will let you borrow it.

 

Thought I should post a final update.

Hard lines are in with splices for the GM o-ring flares, no leaks, but sadly I can't be sure if they will hold under pressure since my fuel pump wont engage for seemingly no reason at all.

The pump problem is a different thread, and rather than post about that immediately, I need to do some searching, since I am sure similar problems have come up. Just ironic... the car started and ran with the fuel leaks, the only change is the fuel lines, and now the pump wont engage.

Thanks for the help.