need to relocate my knock sensor
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
need to relocate my knock sensor
I couldnt get the knock sensor off, so i took the starter off and tried to get it off with pliers, channel locks, a pipe wrench, grip pliers, you name it.
well, it finally ended up breaking off instead. I even used to PB blaster and it still wouldnt come off!
so, since the threads were broke off in there. i tried to tap it out with a reverse tap screw. that broke too. so now i have a hardened steel piece stuck in there as well. the way i see it, that area is officially F---ED. and i have no idea what to do now. im hoping i can seal it up somehow (i drilled into it) and maybe relocate the new knock sensor in the block somewhere.
my other question is can i just mount it into an original hole somwehere in the block that exists already? its an l98, so im hoping so. if not im thinking maybe i can drill out a hole maybe below the original knock sensor location and thread it and screw it in there. but i dont want to ruin the block anymore than i have already.
this is so upsetting, all i wanted to do was unbolt a simple sensor and now its a nightmare. my cars just sits now...
i did a search and found this thread
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...ck-sensor.html
but im sort of confused how the guy said he connected it into a head. im trying to wonder how he did that.
i also searched and read that you can block it off and run a resistor, but i think thats not good since we kind of need our KS's.
thanks for your inputs guys.
well, it finally ended up breaking off instead. I even used to PB blaster and it still wouldnt come off!
so, since the threads were broke off in there. i tried to tap it out with a reverse tap screw. that broke too. so now i have a hardened steel piece stuck in there as well. the way i see it, that area is officially F---ED. and i have no idea what to do now. im hoping i can seal it up somehow (i drilled into it) and maybe relocate the new knock sensor in the block somewhere.
my other question is can i just mount it into an original hole somwehere in the block that exists already? its an l98, so im hoping so. if not im thinking maybe i can drill out a hole maybe below the original knock sensor location and thread it and screw it in there. but i dont want to ruin the block anymore than i have already.
this is so upsetting, all i wanted to do was unbolt a simple sensor and now its a nightmare. my cars just sits now...
i did a search and found this thread
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...ck-sensor.html
but im sort of confused how the guy said he connected it into a head. im trying to wonder how he did that.
i also searched and read that you can block it off and run a resistor, but i think thats not good since we kind of need our KS's.
thanks for your inputs guys.
Supreme Member




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,313
Likes: 115
From: belle fourche,s.d.
Car: '82 z28
Engine: L83 5.7
Transmission: 700r4-1985
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: need to relocate my knock sensor
could you put it in the drain on the other side and extend the wires?(if that plug will come out
)
) Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: need to relocate my knock sensor
are you saying that there is a location on the driver side of the block where i can put a new knock sensor at? if so, could you specify please?
thanks.
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: need to relocate my knock sensor
The same hole is present on the other side of the block. They're the original coolant drain holes that have been there since forever.
Supreme Member




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,313
Likes: 115
From: belle fourche,s.d.
Car: '82 z28
Engine: L83 5.7
Transmission: 700r4-1985
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: need to relocate my knock sensor
if you have a mig welder or can get the car over to one,
you might be able to weld an old bolt onto the remains
of the original knock sensor and possibly turn it out...
(the heat from the welding might also loosen the
broken stub
)
you might be able to weld an old bolt onto the remains
of the original knock sensor and possibly turn it out...
(the heat from the welding might also loosen the
broken stub
) Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: need to relocate my knock sensor
hopefully, whatever is in that coolant drain hole, wont be a pain in the *** like that knock sensor was. jeezus H, i never tried to take something out that was so stuck like that.
that is a good idea also, but i would have to bring everything from my shop to my house. we have welding, plasma cutters, etc there. but honestly i just want to seal that little hiccup, up. not sure what i can use. do you think JB weld will secure whatever is left on the original location of the KS?
thanks fella's i appreciate the help.
oh i see what your saying. HA! im sure if i do that, the bolt will break off again. heat does work sometimes, but doesnt heat also expand mostly?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: need to relocate my knock sensor
my car has been sitting on jack stands, with the starter out and nothing has been accomplished since then. just needed a break, i tend to get frustrated and then **** everything else up to all hell.
I have an idea. i dont want to **** with the other side, i think if i try to make things work with that part something will go wrong again, as always. remember this car is old as ****. the engine might internally explode or the runners might melt or something wrong can just happen.
well. heres my plan. drill the ****ing **** out of the stub (that broke off from the original KS) thats more seized than 2 fingers in a chinese finger trap and (trying really hard NOT TO) **** up the threads while doing it. if i dont get all the gay *** metal out, its no big deal. because i have a complete tap and die kit at work, for making threads and ****. so, ill just find out the diameter and thread one of those mother ****ers in the hole again..and if theres any metal left in there im sure it will grind out. it seems as if that original meatal is somewhat soft from when i was drilling it. so thats good. wtf do you guys think? is this a good idea?
the only thiing im ****ing worried about is getting metal shavings in the stupid hole, so ill try my best to not get all that **** in there, and possibly clean it out if i can when im done.
its pissing me off, and im ready to pull the engine, and put a new long block in there at this point. since as far as im concerned, the block its self could be more ruined than the economy if this fails. and if it does ill jam a ****ing bolt in there to seal that mother ****er up i suppose.
Im an engineer in the navy, so im just thinking like one at this point
I have an idea. i dont want to **** with the other side, i think if i try to make things work with that part something will go wrong again, as always. remember this car is old as ****. the engine might internally explode or the runners might melt or something wrong can just happen.
well. heres my plan. drill the ****ing **** out of the stub (that broke off from the original KS) thats more seized than 2 fingers in a chinese finger trap and (trying really hard NOT TO) **** up the threads while doing it. if i dont get all the gay *** metal out, its no big deal. because i have a complete tap and die kit at work, for making threads and ****. so, ill just find out the diameter and thread one of those mother ****ers in the hole again..and if theres any metal left in there im sure it will grind out. it seems as if that original meatal is somewhat soft from when i was drilling it. so thats good. wtf do you guys think? is this a good idea?
the only thiing im ****ing worried about is getting metal shavings in the stupid hole, so ill try my best to not get all that **** in there, and possibly clean it out if i can when im done.
its pissing me off, and im ready to pull the engine, and put a new long block in there at this point. since as far as im concerned, the block its self could be more ruined than the economy if this fails. and if it does ill jam a ****ing bolt in there to seal that mother ****er up i suppose.
Im an engineer in the navy, so im just thinking like one at this point
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