Kinda long...


I was fighting with that code 33 for a long time. What ended up fixing the problem was replacing the IAC. When I did the IAC, I also did a coolant bypass. I dont think that is the reason for my problem, but i figured i'd mention it (btw, I did NOT cap off the water ports).

Anyway. I installed the IAC, by just snugging it down when the tb was removed. and set the tps to .53v.

I drove it all over for 2 days and it ran perfect. I was leaving the post office about a week ago (car was up to opp. temp.), went to start it, it caught and then died. Started it again and then it started to surge. The only way I could get it home was to ride the brake and keep the rpms up.

A few days later, I changed the o2 sensor because in my datalogs it was giving me weird readings, so i just replaced it.

Took it for another drive and once it got hot it did the same thing. It actually stalled on my when i let up on the gas at 40. I threw it in N and it started back up.

Any ideas? Its NOT throwing the CEL light, but when i hook my comp up to it, it still shows an error at code 33?

The only thing i can think of is that the injectors look old, but i cant tell if they are the multitech ones. I have ohmed them many times when hot and cold and they always read in spec.

Seriously fed up with this car.

Going CARB'd is looking really good right now.

Also, FWIW. When i replaced the IAC, i was in a rush to move the car, so i didnt set the min idle speed. I didnt think i needed too since it idled well prior to replacing the iac. I attempted to set it yesterday, but with the IAC connector removed the car would not start.

 

The code 33 will only disappear if you reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes.

 

The battery is disconnected every time I tried something to fix the code 33. It has been removed about 4 times since i fixed the cel.

 

you had a similar problem to mine which im still trying to figure out. My car originally had a stalling problem which i would be in the midlle of the intersection sitting and it would just die and not start back up. Found out it was bad fuel injectors. Well after that i got the car back and it ran shakey, had a lumpy ride, and would make a sputter noise until rpms are fine then would sound fine. On idle it has a shakey movement where the car goes crazy and the rpms seem to drop when i put it in drive or reverse, minute i put it into park the idle goes up but still shakes. In gear it shakes worse, and sometimes when i wpuld be reversing out the drive way it would just die. Weird thing is i never knew it was bad if your car was in the ON position not running position that your fans shouldnt come one because both of mine do. Anyways what i found to maybe be the problem was a Map or MAF sensor to be dirty or bad and cause it to run bad. Also can you hear your fuel pump on when the cars started?

 

Yep, I had a buddy come over with a new maf. it seemed to run well with his. I just bought one and it seems to fix the problem. I got to go out and drive it more just to make sure. Now with the new maf, im getting really rich at idle (108 blm) and perfect when i start cracking the throttle all the way to WOT. I got to figure out why. I also will be replacing the injectors this weekend. Maybe that will help??

 

If your running rich you might want to take a look at the egr valve, that maybe could be a problem. Also where are you getting your injectors from and what kind?

 

The egr has been deleted from the prom, but is still intact under the plenum. I got my injectors from FIC. Bosch 3's, 22#.