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Congrats man I can't wait to see what that single plane will do on the dyno. Are you still keeping mega squirt efi setup?
Also I forgot to post an updated exhaust pic. So far I've cruised 30-45 playing with my tune an haven't experienced vapor lock. Initial I was probably running way above average exhaust temps because my tune was dumping way too much gas. I also need to post an exhaust clip it sounds like a newer corvette until I open the dump valve then it sounds like a late model racecar. On your line that was going to the fuel canister if its an open line do u have any issue with gas fumes coming out when its off I was thinking about trying to rig up an inline vent on that line?
I've also posted clearance pics on my exhaust help post, but so far its only scrapped once on a unfinished parking with a slope. If it ever scarps through ill cut the section out and get the exact same setup with oval pipes
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At the Raleigh Convention for a car show this past weekend.
It got TONS of attention, but didn't bring anything home. Oh well. The good news is the new brace that I have on the supercharger is holding great and initial WOT runs are looking good(and STRONG).
I am getting it back for a custom 4" exhaust and body mounted torque arm next week..
The car looks so good man. Kinda surprised no awards, but you've been on the cover of the best GM magazine out there anyway so who cares! Really like that second shot
Got on the dyno for a couple pulls with the new intake before I head to Clayton GA for the 1/2 event there.
My goal was just to get a safe tune to run for that and the once I get back tune for power, get a new custom 4" exhaust system, and more fuel as the A1000 is barely keeping up.
I'm very happy with the results. It made 775 hp at 6700 rpm making about 23 lbs of boost. Also, we were gaining around 25 hp per degree of timing, but stopped at 14* to keep it as safe as possible until we get the fuel issue sorted. At that level it starts doing funny things(fuel pressure decreases), so I backed down my shift points to 6500(750rwhp) and put the rev limiter at 6800. I expect to see well into the 800s once we get the last couple pieces ironed out.
With the TPI on it, the only comparable numbers I have are 555 @ 5800 on a Mustang dyno. The numbers from last night were on a dynojet. Either way conservatively, I picked up 175 from JUST the intake!
Upgraded the fuel pump to support my new-found power.
now using a Holley 12-1800.
Also, Boostfed finally got on my exhaust and crossmember fabrication. We got a LOT done yesterday. We are doing a 3" y-pipe to a 4" exhaust dumping in front of the rear axle for now, with it going OVER the axle soon. We didn't have a mufler yesterday, so we ran 4" straight back, turned down in front of the axle. Sounds great, but is VERY loud. I will be adding a muffler and, like I said, Farlow wants to get it turned down at the back bumper. Should be awesome. All the exhaust is stainless and tigged. VERY good quality stuff here!
We also, fabbed up a crossmember mount yesterday that will soon be modified to accept the torque arm mount, so we can get it off of the transmission. I don't want to break the tailshaft when I start leaving harder....
Check this ground clearance!!!!
I'll be back in a couple weeks for the muffler, raising the rear even more and T/A mount on the body. Farlow is the man when it comes to a welder for sure!
In true Iroc fashion, I took two huge steps forward and one back. Grabbed third gear and it pulled HARD(third is now spinning ) , let off and all was well. A couple minutes later dropped her into third again and only made 5 or so lbs. REALLY weird. I am checking the usually things, like silicone couplers, etc. I have pulled the SC pulley and it turns free, no sheared keyway, sounds like it always has, the impellars are in good shape and have never touched the housing , and seems to be in great shape.
I am THINKING it is slipping on the crank and sheared the keyway on the crank, but it is strange because it runs GREAT, has a LOT of air coming out of the BOV at idle, no strange engine noises or anything just making 5-7 lbs(was over 20). Just won't make boost!
Boost leak fixed. Now I just have to put it all back together and reinstall the SC pulley and crank bolt that I removed to try and track down my problem....
Driving to a car show on 4/4/14 I leaned into it and noticed the fuel pressure going down and the AFR leaning out. Let out of it, but looks like I may of been too late.
This is the second fuel pump to do this, so Im 99.99% sure it's the exhaust too close to the fuel lines, causing vapor lock issues after 30-40 minutes of driving. Its PERFECT when cold.
So..... changes will be coming
-Fix issue(hopefully the block and all is good, or I'll be going more cubes)
-new single exhaust
-SINGLE PLANE intake
-Better valve springs
THIS is the exact issue that zz28 guy had when building his 10 second Camaro. He is still battling the issue now.. It will run great. but after hot passes the fuel pressure drops off.
He still hasn't figured it out and Im pretty sure he has replaced everything
Hopefully it holds together well. I am going to keep the timing rather low to make sure the tune has a little room in it. A local guy that gives me input on the tune sometimes is NOT a meth fan, so we are debating on tuning for meth(lowering fuel and upping timing) or doing a pump gas and then race gas tune.....
Here are some of the completed exhaust system pictures. Boostfed86 and I have some TIME in this setup, but it is NICE and surely 1 of a kind! Only have a couple more tweaks and the Torque Arm mount to go and we are FINISHED. I love the sound of the magnaflow muffler...
Oh yes. Here is the result of Friday night's testing. This is no WOT in 1st or 2nd. The engine is really starting to wake up now. Just have to get enough fuel in it to support the new power! 80 lb injectors are maxed
I do need to figure something out. Fuel pressure starts to waiver once the car gets hot. You can hear the pump change tones, so it seems to be starving for fuel. If you turn the car off and wait a little you can hear the pump quiet down. Currently running a Holley 12-1800.
It is perfect until it gets hot........ I have changed two fuel pumps, filters, bypassed the aeromotive voltage box, changed all lines up front, 2 completely different exhaust systems to get it away from the lines, etc.
I am thinking(hoping) it needs more vent. The previous owner has the factory feed line returning fuel now, so I'm assuming its dumping in the top of the tank. The only vent I know of is the gas cap(I drilled a few holes in it.... This stopped the gurgling sound after a long hot drive), but I don't remember where the factory vent goes and how it is vented. I would assume something pushing this much fuel would need a good sized vent!
Line size seems adequate as when the car is cool it does perfectly.... BUT its -10 to the pump, 1/2 to the front. rails are -6, return is the factory feed line. Again, its FINE when cold, so i don't see how size matters at this point anyway!
Spent the last 2 hours pouring over every post in this thread. Absolutely beautiful car. I see the result of passion, talent, vision, and patience. I'm excited to watch you take this thing into the 9's.
just a thought, and i'm spitballing here, but have you considered a problem with supply voltage/ground for the fuel pump? i know the factory wiring is marginal at best for even an upgraded in-tank pump. resistance increases as temps increase, which would make the fuel pump demand more amperage when its heat soaked. Or could it possibly be a fuel heating issue since you are cycling a lot of fuel through the system? maybe a cooler plumbed in would help
by the way beautiful car, one of my favorites here
Last edited by rick90gta; Jan 1, 2015 at 11:56 AM.
Just saw this reply. Thanks for the input. I have the pump wired directly from the battery and monitor the voltage as well. In the attached MS view you can see voltage in there as well.
Well, I have been very slack on updates and sadly there have been a bunch of them!
I trapped almost 111, brought the car home and started prepping it for Fall Draggin Rights.
I changed out the front 17x7" wheels for some true skinnies(17x4) and radial front runners. The spokes on the 17x4 are much thinner than the 17x7s. Of course, they are much lighter as well. Love the look!
Fast forward to the day I was getting ready to load the car for Draggin' Rights. I ent out on the slicks and at WOT I got an instant Smoke screen. UGH! I knew it was bad as it was now smoking out of both breathers as well. I limped it to Advance Auto and got my wife to bring the truck and trailer. At this point I knew the last run at Roxboro where it went lean(as the fuel pressure wavered) had caused problems. I thought there was probably a hole in the piston. Got it home and started the tear down.
We were right
after some research(and a month wait) we have a shiny new replacement for her!
Luckily the cylinder was able to be cleaned with muriatic acid and came out well. After a hone it is more than acceptable to run
(Before hone)
For those interested in just how lean it was, here is the graph.
14.6/1 AFR, over 7100 RPM, and 26.6 lbs of boost. Note on this run, the meth was armed, but I later figured out that it was not spraying as the line was too high and not gravity feeding the pump to spray
Along with a new piston, fresh hone, new rings and bearings, HV oil pump, we are getting a custom spec'd cam and hoping to improve the 775 RWHP!
While the engine is out I will be doing a few upgrades, fixes, and of course appearance modifications!
1st thing I did was replace all of the broken and worn connectors.....
Dusty got the oil pump(and all the rest of the engine parts in) and modified the oil pump for the best performance and longevity....
This expansion plug is inserted into the oil pickup area of the pump to facilitate drilling if the bypass return hole. If this plug were to fall out, the pump would suck air and not pull the oil up the pickup and we would lose oil pressure!
The bottom plate is opened up and smoothed to help the oil flow smoothly into the pump
The pressure outlet of the pump is smoothed and blended
The pipe plug is inserted in place of the expansion plug
The components are coated with assembly line to aid in priming and reassembled!
Engine compartment and wiring all tidy now! Didn't have to do much touch up, but here is the main part I painted.
You can see the painted booster and brake lines better here. My daughter and I placed the snow on it. She is surely inside
Had a couple parts come in wrong, so waiting to get that corrected so Dusty and I can wrap up the engine. I am ready to get it back in and run it NA for break-in and fuel pump diagnosing.
Should have it running in March, but with how much we have going on, I'm probably not going to do the VA 1/2 mile event I was going to run at! Should be out and about soon though!
Well........ I think I've finally found my fuel issues. Making a couple changes and putting the tank back in soon.
1) Check out where the previous owner had the return line going! (its the line going to the bottom of the float. It was ALL the way at the bottom. Less than 2" from the inlet for the fuel pump! Talk about heating fuel and causing fuel starvation.
2) Wired a Hobbs switch so the Holley fuel pump only has 1 pump going at anything below 4 psi. At that point the second pump will kick on. This will keep the pump from overworking and also keep fuel temps much lower.
3) Moving return to the side of the tank close to the filler neck. It seems to be the most common place and is where all the Nasty tanks return
4) Using the old return line in the tank as another vent. I will cut it as short as possible in the tank to keep it out of fuel, and then add another breather beside the stock one.
5) Holley is replacing my 12-1800 and I am trading it at my local speed shop for a 12-1600. Per Holley they no longer recommend the 12-1800 for street driving OR extended use above 90*(both of which I did a couple weeks ago). Supposedly the 1600 is much better at handling hot fuel, and is OK for extended periods of driving.
Those little screens are from a cheap billet filter, like the JEGs things, they flow like crap even when brand new. I guess someone used it as a pre filter
? For you. I have been reading a lot on the forms about the air spliter and wind diffuser.
I dont understand why i cant see most of the photos and none of the links work. (From my phone) do you happen to know a company that makes them. I am geting ready to do a complete body over haul. New bumper hood enders deck lid and wing and would like to add them to the car. I the car is lowerd but with the cradle swap it seems to sit higher than most lowered 3rd gens
. Are you still keeping mega squirt efi setup?
) , let off and all was well. A couple minutes later dropped her into third again and only made 5 or so lbs. REALLY weird. I am checking the usually things, like silicone couplers, etc. I have pulled the SC pulley and it turns free, no sheared keyway, sounds like it always has, the impellars are in good shape and have never touched the housing , and seems to be in great shape.
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