Stock Hooker LTs with a stock external slave......

 

For now, the best picture I could find.

I will try and get some next time I am under it. I did have to be creative with slave line routing!

 

I have a 1987 TPI trans am. Can anyone tell me where the IAT sensor plugs in. I know its in the upper intake but i don't know where the two wires plug into.

 

Did you find it?

It's under the plenum...

 

 

i know the sensor goes into the intake but i cant figure out where the two prong connector connects into.

 

We are thinking my over 6000 rpm "earthquake" is related to the valvesprings. Going to be pulling them and replacing them with something able to handle the cam and 20+ PSI the car is pushing soon.

I am also getting some help over to mount the T/A on the body and make a new DSL.


While the car is down i am getting my MS box looked at for a couple of small issues as well as upgrading it to work my T56 solenoid so that when I am stopped and wanting to go into reverse, I won't have to man handle it over there. I am half tempted to get it built by our local builder as well, since the car will be down a couple weeks.




Lastly, I'm finally getting around to installing a in-car fuel pressure gauge..... It will be rollbar mounted right under my WB

 

Few more updates...

Sent the megasquirt to a buddy to get a few things looked at. He looked at my MAP sensor that has beginning to read lower and lower. It was actually a bad MAP sensor. Luckily, I have two on my setup(one for baro correction), so we just swappeed those and all is well now. Also, he corrected bad work from where I sent it to symtech lab to get an input for FP installed. They had connected it incorrectly in the board, so I now know why it would never read correctly! Lastly he is adding a small circuit that will activate the reverse lockout solenoid on my T56 to allow it to more easliy go into reverse. I have been just manhandling it over there and while that is not hurting anything, the wife can't get it into reverse by herself.


I also ordered an Autometer 0-100 electric fuel pressure gauge and installed it right above my WB on the cage. It looks great and after fighting a bad ground, works perfectly! I will branch the 0-5 volt off of it when I get the MS back so that I can have it at both places.


Pics soon!

 

Forgot to mention...... I am NOT running meth anymore and picked up 90 HP.

I am not exactly sure of the whys, but when I get a few other details ironed out I will be looking into spraying some again....

 

Love this thread.

 

Here is an update on the Megasquirt for those interested. As Chris mentioned the one map sensor was bad but the baro sensor was fine. So all I did was swap them on the little board they sit on.







Back together


The Map sensor now reads properly. Baro reads correct as well but the numbers need to be fudged a little bit to make it read right.



Picture of the boards before the lockout circuit is added. The custom circuit already there is the fuel pressure circuit


This is the lockout circuit.


The lockout circuit is something I put in my MS that when the system goes into closed loop idle it allows entry into reverse. When setup right closed loop idle only engages at idle so anytime you are going to 5th gear you can't accidentally hit reverse.

 

I made a video for Chris so I figured I would post it here. It simply shows the function of closed loop idle and how that affects the reverse lockout. Don't mind the mess that my car is currently. It is soon to be taken apart anyway.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhnK1...ature=youtu.be

 

Thanks for all of the help getting it set up!

I'm excited to get it back together with a correctly working MAP, FP gauge, and reverse without having to man-handle it in every time!

 

MOAR updates!




Added a fuel pressure gauge on the pillar and also got it wired into my megasquirt!!




Also, got a NRG quick release steering wheel. VERY easy to install, very stout, and price wasn't too bad either. I got the thinnest one they make.

Only adds 1 1/5 inch of spacing


Now it's off!



New gauge outlook for Megasquirt FTW.

 

After getting the ms back in I noticed at 250 kpa it has an overboost protection that kicks in.

Upped it to 300kpa and it pulled to 6600!!! It was very rich because I haven't dialed in the fuel after the new map sensor was installed.

Also now that I can log fuel pressure I see the pump only gains fuel pressure until around 8 psi of boost and then it drops.

Trying to decide between getting my a1000 rebuilt or buying a holley 1400hp capable one. I am still going to double check my valvesprings to make sure they are up to par. Obviously my injectors are OK, because even at low fp ps1 I am rich. Glad to see that part of the fuel system is ready to go!

After all that and the t/a change I hope to get it back to dyno for more horsepower then to he track for lower 10s and hopefully a 9.99 pass!

 

I fall asleep dreaming of your car sometimes

 

Hahaha.

Thanks man!

 

Driving to a car show on 4/4/14 I leaned into it and noticed the fuel pressure going down and the AFR leaning out. Let out of it, but looks like I may of been too late.

This is the second fuel pump to do this, so Im 99.99% sure it's the exhaust too close to the fuel lines, causing vapor lock issues after 30-40 minutes of driving. Its PERFECT when cold.

So..... changes will be coming
-Fix issue(hopefully the block and all is good, or I'll be going more cubes)
-new single exhaust
-SINGLE PLANE intake
-Better valve springs

 

That sucks man!

Hare to see you leave the tpi intake behind, though I certianly understand why.

 

I will keep the TPI for my yellow Iroc!


I am leaving TOO MUCH on the table. With how not stock this Iroc is, the TPI(or lack thereof) really isn't that big a deal. I just wanted to push it as far as I could...

 

Yeah that doesn't sound too good. Is your fuel return all the way to the bottom of the tank? I had a similar issue when I had the wrong return line setup and the returning fuel was aerating the fuel in the tank and I would slowly loose fuel pressure.

 

Return is at the top of the tank....

 

yeah that is a no no unless you have a line that drops down to the bottom of the tank. My problem was I was running an external fuel pump with the stock carb sending unit. The carb sending unit has a return line but it is at the very top of the tank as the carb setup returns very little fuel. As soon as I went to EFI that return was now flowing tons of fuel and aerating the system.

I watched the video below and it convinced me of my problem. I swapped over to the factory in tank pump EFI sending unit that has the return line go to the bottom of the tank and it has been flawless for 2 years.

 

It is using the stock feed line that is at the bottom of the tank.

I will verify that it is all still intact upon disassembly of the stock tank

 

Drivers side #3.


Going to put another stud in tonight and at least see if that is my only issue in regards to the knock...


I am still changing up exhaust, valvesprings, and pulley for now.


I need to get this fuel starvation problem when hot under control. I am thinking the exhaust is heating it too much.


More to follow after I try and get it back together tonight...

 

Is it just me, or are things (oil filter, starter motor) on the wrong sides in this pic?

 

definitely just you

 

No it's just you.

 

I THINK I have now found all of the damage...

Luckily the lifter was still 100% intact and nothing went below. The cam looks fine as well.


So, I have ordered

-Comp 917 Springs
-Custom stud girdle to go with my center-bolt heads
-All new 7/16 studs
-Edelbrock Victor E
-Edelbrock rails
-1 pair of new lifters


Hope to start going back together with it this weekend!

 

MOAR updates.

I was in for a couple surprises on this batch of fixing the problem, but that is to be expected.


Somewhere my studs got swapped(don't ask me how) and they are 3/8". Its hard to tell without a 7/16" near it and I know for a fact I had 7/16 studs on this motor before.

Either way I have a new set of 7/16 studs here now. I also ordered a very nice stud girdle that will work with my center bolt heads and have pulled my Competition Cams 7/16 rockers out and got them ready to install once back together....




Next......yet another setback. Started installing my new comp 917 springs and well, my heads are only cut out for a <1.50" spring......... I didn't want to chance running a lesser spring with my new intake and rockers going on, so I pulled the heads to machine the spring pockets out .1" for the larger springs.

She is ready for surgery(and yes, I did keep this on the ENTIRE time the heads were being removed...)



ALMOST done.....




Covered and waiting ....... I am cleaning up and maybe recoating the headers and powder coating a few pieces while it's apart. Always room to be cleaner



Here are the Comp 917 springs. They should more than be enough for my cam and boost combination!




Installed some door pulls, to help shut the door without rolling the window down. Initial pulls and car noises I made while doing so show this will work well in the long run!


Lastly....... Did someone say single plane?????

I can't wait to see the difference this Victor E makes!

 

Nice.. I hope you fully ported your pockets and tuned your wallet! I will admit it's really awesome to see you taking this already awesome car even further!

 

Yes, my wallet is always sad to see these modifications happening, but hey. It keeps me happy!

 

Hey Nuff Nuff, where in NC are you I saw the National Speed sticker, and was wondering if you are in the Wilmington area, I live in Hampstead and work in Wilm, at Trophy Ride Customs on old Market St., used to be Trophy Rides name changed 1st of the year, your ride is sweet I'd love to see it in person, I am currently trying to get my 84 back together, having some wiring issues swapped from Carb to TPI, but hopefully I'll have her running soon. Awesome job on yours hope to see it someday.

 

I'm in central NC(Hillsborough)

The previous owner was from Wilmington...

 

Got a few more things finished...

Head studs removed, cleaned, and reinstalled with brand new Cometic gaskets.



Heads installed along with adjusted rocker arms. 5/8" studs along with Comp Cams 1.6 Rocker arms. The girdle wouldn't work with these rockers or my valve covers, so I sent it back in lieu of changing so many things to make it work. I will go straight to shaft mount when I upgrade. The bigger studs and rockers should be a decent upgrade by themselves.



Just a couple quick "how it will look" pictures. This is the Edelbrock Victor E, 2" spacer, 73 Camaro water neck, and custom elbow. There will be a few things that need to be "fabbed". but for the most part, it should work pretty well.

 

Have you figured out your fuel issue if you are still thinking heat what I do when heat is a question take an inferred temperature gun let it run and start checking temperatures. I have a Milwaukee that was around $100 and home depot sales a Ryobi one and even harbor freight has one.

On your exhaust I may have overlooked it but I was curious what size pipe you are running and what clearance you have. I have 2210 w/383procharged and the exhaust guy is trying to say I need 2.5 duals before my 4inch y with a dump valve do you think this would be too much backpressure?

 

No. It broke right after I discovered my fuel issues.

I am thinking it is heat related, so when I get it back together we are doing a 3" Y-pipe to a 4" exhaust and spintech muffler that will go down the passenger side tunnel.

How are your fuel lines ran? This 3" Dual(pics on 1st page) will be for sale soon if you're interested.

I'd try to keep 3" then a 4" y if possible.

 

Mine are still stock tank and lines with a bigger pump and braided lines to the hsr. But I've only ran limited time with open headers but ill check my fuel line temps once i get it back from the exhaust shop.

Your muffler looks close to the fuel line. My pipe from the header will be about the same distance. My plan is to have the drivers side exhaust go under the trans crossmember to the passenger side then have a y w/a dump valve. I'll post a few if everything fits like I'm hoping.

 

Please do.

I'm changing mine up soon!

 

here's a few ruff pics of the exhaust. You can see how I set up the dump valve is going to be setup. I think he did an awful job on the bend around the sphoon crossmember I've almost scrapped through the exhaust in 15 miles. Its going to another exhaust shop tomorrow to see if they can do the bends to keep it tight. Ive also debated ordering oval pipe or spilting from 3" to two smaller pipes then back to 3 for that section. I'll update with a few pics when Its changed.

My fuel line seems to be warmer than before but not hot enough for vapor lock but I haven't had the same extended run time as you. The line that was connected to the fuel canister I still have open and warm fuel vapor is coming out. Did you plug that line I thought it was just one way line back to tank.

 

My canister is just open venting.

I like your idea, but yes, it needs to be tightened up around the T/A badly. It will rub through that quickly.


As soon as my car is running, I will be taking it down again for the Suspension(body mounted T/A and exhaust) and upgrade my Ysi to the Billet version

 

looks good man!

 

Thank you.

Have some more updates I'll post shortly!

Hope to have it running by next Wednesday

 

 

Me gusta

 

First try-very nice!

 

Thanks guys.

It is sucking so much more air, it leans out horribly when I rev it. I think that is a good sign!

 

BBBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

-DISlike

 

Nice!

Will the TB clear the hood with that setup?

 

I know the TPI diehards would/will hate it . I liked the TPI. It is just SUCH a restriction that i couldn't keep it!

The TB is in the exact same position, just about 1/2" higher. It should clear my cowl fine. It would probably not clear a stock hood now.