Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
04-10-2011, 06:34 PM
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Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
Hi,I have done some thread searching and found many useful previous posts about this issue and im also one of the several that seem to get this error.
I have a new ecm,relays,maf sensor.And still getting the code 33.From what i understand the black wire on the pigtail of the maf is not supposed to get + voltage to it.Im getting a reading of .02+ volts on this wire.Is this the issue ive been searching for?I guess my main questions would be is this normal and whats the next step to to see where the voltage is coming from.I assumed it would be to trace the wire back however far is needed to find the short.I have ran the maf's own ground and everything to make sure its not a grounding issue.My car is a 1987 (early model) GTA 5.7 tpi automatic.Any help is greatly appreciated Im at wits end with this thing.I also see that the car will still run with the fuel pump relay disconnected...!?Im about to strip this car down to the bare bones to fix this issue and was hoping to hear from one of the many tpi guru's that frequent this site first.Thank you guys so much for the help and support of the totally awesome 3rd gen cars. Hope to hear from someone soon thanks!
To some up this is what i have done.New ecm,maf,burnoff relay,maf power relay,smog system is gone and the wires are taped up and tucked away as i now have headers,Running a msd 6al box and accel coil.The car i found to have a similar .02 volt drain sitting with nothing powered on.I have wiggle tested all old pigtails with the volt meter to see any random short with no result.
http://www.corvettefever.com/techart...ems/index.html
Morley
05-15-2007, 01:46 AM
Even replaced the MAF with a new Granatelli unit.
Is that one of the "adjustable" MAF's?
Other things to check, look at the female pins on the harness side of the MAF connection. Make sure none of them got "opened up" (spread apart) when you were hooking up the MAF. Also check that the TPS voltage is .54 volts +/- .017v with the key on engine off, upper 2 wires on the TPS.
And this I got a long time ago
There are three codes that pertain to the MAF sensor: Codes 33, 34, and 36. Code 33 (mass air signal voltage high) is set when the computer sees a high mass air reading at low engine speeds. In other words, there appears to be more airflow through the MAF sensor than the engine can physically breathe at a specific throttle and rpm.
Code 34 (mass air low) sets when the computer registers less than 5 grams of airflow at idle or 2.5 grams/second of air when the engine is first started. The mass air wire inside the MAF sensor should heat up after the car shuts off to clean any contaminants from the wire. When this fails to happen, the computer shows a Code 36 (mass air burn-off malfunction). We'll address and troubleshoot each code individually.
The mass air sensor is a simple design. It's comprised of a wire that heats up when the car is running. The air entering the engine through the MAF sensor cools the wire. The more air ingested by the engine, the more air must flow through the sensor. More air means a cooler wire. The computer knows how much air is entering the engine by the temperature of the wire inside the MAF sensor. The air/fuel mixture is dependent upon having accurate readings from the MAF sensor. If there were a problem, a Code 33 or 34 would be set. Once a Code 33 or 34 appears, the MAF sensor will shut down and the car will go into "basic strategy" mode, aka limp-home mode, until the key is turned off for at least 15 seconds. You'll know the MAF has stopped working when, in Chris' words, "You let off the throttle and it feels like an anchor just dropped."
A Code 33 can be set for several reasons. It appears if the dark green wire (circuit 998) has an open circuit or a bad sensor; if the black, burn-off control circuit wire (circuit 900) has power with the car running; or if the system has a bad ground. You must check for an open circuit on 998 at the ECM on connector B12. There are several places to check for a grounding problem. The cast-iron-headed '85s and '86s have the grounds on the rear of the driver-side head. You'll have to pull the wiper motor to check. The aluminum-headed '86s and '87s have a pack of grounds next to the oil-temp sensor and filter. On the '88 and '89 Corvettes, the ECM, dash, and sensor grounds are on a lower lefthand-side bellhousing stud.
A Code 34 could be set for several reasons as well. A bad ground, an opening in the ducting between the MAF and the throttle body, incorrect minimum idle-air setting of the throttle body, or a worn throttle body can all cause a Code 34. Typically, a worn throttle body or a bad ground will set a Code 34 intermittently (every third or fourth time). To see if the minimum idle air is causing the problem, open the throttle slightly as you try to start the car again. If it's easier to start, check the minimum idle air.
To check the throttle body, simply depress the cruise-control bellows and observe if the throttle-body linkage moves laterally instead of only rotating on the shaft. If there is noticeable movement, your throttle body is worn and the engine is getting unregistered air through the gaps.
'86-'89 Corvettes use a powered fuse link and connector that supplies power to the fuel pump and MAF relays behind the battery. The '85 Corvettes do not use relays for the MAF, but instead use a module next to the ECM. This module rarely goes bad; but to check the module on '85 Corvettes, look for 12 volts at connection E on the MAF with the engine running. Then, run the engine for at least 5 minutes, turn off the key, and check for 12 volts at connection D (MAF burn-off). The powered fuse link is a common cause of intermittent MAF codes. Check the connection and wire for a possible open circuit.
The oil-pressure switch is another possible cause of intermittent MAF codes. If the engine feels as if it has an intermittent hiccup with a fuel pump and MAF code set, the oil-pressure sensor would be the place to start. If the switch is bad, the engine tries to start because power to the pump at startup is fed through the ECM's fuel-pump-relay drive (connection A1).
The relays changed in late '87. Relay No. 14089936 operated the MAF power, burn-off, and fuel pump. Although not always accurate, the connectors for the 9936 relay are the gray connector for the burn-off circuit and the black connector for the MAF power circuit. You'll notice that the new connectors are weather pack connectors to seal out moisture.
To check that the MAF burn-off is getting power, look for 12 volts at the MAF connector position E.
If you get a Code 36, MAF burn-off malfunction, it should immediately reveal itself at startup and it won't affect performance. '85 Corvettes will never show a Code 36, only '86-'89 Corvettes. You can check to see if the ECM is calling for an MAF burn-off by running the car for at least 5 minutes, and checking the black wire at connection F (circuit 900) on the gray connector. It should be grounded for approximately 30 seconds. This is the ECM grounding the wire to actuate the relay. If there is no ground, the ECM is at fault. If you have ground, check the power to the relay. If the relay is sending power to the MAF, check that the dark blue wire (position D) on the MAF sensor connector has power.
(See Previous Caption)
Chris has spent some time adding wires, meters, test lights, and jumpers, chasing down several specific reasons why Codes 34 and 33 will appear. Here is what he found: The dark green wire from the ECM to the MAF (circuit 998) can short to ground or short together with circuit 450 (black or black/white) and cause a Code 34. To get a Code 33, circuits 998 or 450 could have an open circuit. Recently, Chris has seen a few cars for which the only cure was to run new wires for both circuits. This cured the intermittent codes immediately.
Checking The Minimum Idle Air: The first step in checking the minimum idle air is to put the car into Field Service Test Mode. Do this by putting a spade connector into the A and B positions of the ALDL connector. With the key on and the engine off, the fan will turn on and the SES light will flash. Also, the Idle Air Controller (IAC) will fully close.
on to the links http://www.corvettefever.com/techart...odes_problems/
In red is where i found the .02 volts.
I have a new ecm,relays,maf sensor.And still getting the code 33.From what i understand the black wire on the pigtail of the maf is not supposed to get + voltage to it.Im getting a reading of .02+ volts on this wire.Is this the issue ive been searching for?I guess my main questions would be is this normal and whats the next step to to see where the voltage is coming from.I assumed it would be to trace the wire back however far is needed to find the short.I have ran the maf's own ground and everything to make sure its not a grounding issue.My car is a 1987 (early model) GTA 5.7 tpi automatic.Any help is greatly appreciated Im at wits end with this thing.I also see that the car will still run with the fuel pump relay disconnected...!?Im about to strip this car down to the bare bones to fix this issue and was hoping to hear from one of the many tpi guru's that frequent this site first.Thank you guys so much for the help and support of the totally awesome 3rd gen cars. Hope to hear from someone soon thanks!
To some up this is what i have done.New ecm,maf,burnoff relay,maf power relay,smog system is gone and the wires are taped up and tucked away as i now have headers,Running a msd 6al box and accel coil.The car i found to have a similar .02 volt drain sitting with nothing powered on.I have wiggle tested all old pigtails with the volt meter to see any random short with no result.
http://www.corvettefever.com/techart...ems/index.html
Morley
05-15-2007, 01:46 AM
Even replaced the MAF with a new Granatelli unit.
Is that one of the "adjustable" MAF's?
Other things to check, look at the female pins on the harness side of the MAF connection. Make sure none of them got "opened up" (spread apart) when you were hooking up the MAF. Also check that the TPS voltage is .54 volts +/- .017v with the key on engine off, upper 2 wires on the TPS.
And this I got a long time ago
There are three codes that pertain to the MAF sensor: Codes 33, 34, and 36. Code 33 (mass air signal voltage high) is set when the computer sees a high mass air reading at low engine speeds. In other words, there appears to be more airflow through the MAF sensor than the engine can physically breathe at a specific throttle and rpm.
Code 34 (mass air low) sets when the computer registers less than 5 grams of airflow at idle or 2.5 grams/second of air when the engine is first started. The mass air wire inside the MAF sensor should heat up after the car shuts off to clean any contaminants from the wire. When this fails to happen, the computer shows a Code 36 (mass air burn-off malfunction). We'll address and troubleshoot each code individually.
The mass air sensor is a simple design. It's comprised of a wire that heats up when the car is running. The air entering the engine through the MAF sensor cools the wire. The more air ingested by the engine, the more air must flow through the sensor. More air means a cooler wire. The computer knows how much air is entering the engine by the temperature of the wire inside the MAF sensor. The air/fuel mixture is dependent upon having accurate readings from the MAF sensor. If there were a problem, a Code 33 or 34 would be set. Once a Code 33 or 34 appears, the MAF sensor will shut down and the car will go into "basic strategy" mode, aka limp-home mode, until the key is turned off for at least 15 seconds. You'll know the MAF has stopped working when, in Chris' words, "You let off the throttle and it feels like an anchor just dropped."
A Code 33 can be set for several reasons. It appears if the dark green wire (circuit 998) has an open circuit or a bad sensor; if the black, burn-off control circuit wire (circuit 900) has power with the car running; or if the system has a bad ground. You must check for an open circuit on 998 at the ECM on connector B12. There are several places to check for a grounding problem. The cast-iron-headed '85s and '86s have the grounds on the rear of the driver-side head. You'll have to pull the wiper motor to check. The aluminum-headed '86s and '87s have a pack of grounds next to the oil-temp sensor and filter. On the '88 and '89 Corvettes, the ECM, dash, and sensor grounds are on a lower lefthand-side bellhousing stud.
A Code 34 could be set for several reasons as well. A bad ground, an opening in the ducting between the MAF and the throttle body, incorrect minimum idle-air setting of the throttle body, or a worn throttle body can all cause a Code 34. Typically, a worn throttle body or a bad ground will set a Code 34 intermittently (every third or fourth time). To see if the minimum idle air is causing the problem, open the throttle slightly as you try to start the car again. If it's easier to start, check the minimum idle air.
To check the throttle body, simply depress the cruise-control bellows and observe if the throttle-body linkage moves laterally instead of only rotating on the shaft. If there is noticeable movement, your throttle body is worn and the engine is getting unregistered air through the gaps.
'86-'89 Corvettes use a powered fuse link and connector that supplies power to the fuel pump and MAF relays behind the battery. The '85 Corvettes do not use relays for the MAF, but instead use a module next to the ECM. This module rarely goes bad; but to check the module on '85 Corvettes, look for 12 volts at connection E on the MAF with the engine running. Then, run the engine for at least 5 minutes, turn off the key, and check for 12 volts at connection D (MAF burn-off). The powered fuse link is a common cause of intermittent MAF codes. Check the connection and wire for a possible open circuit.
The oil-pressure switch is another possible cause of intermittent MAF codes. If the engine feels as if it has an intermittent hiccup with a fuel pump and MAF code set, the oil-pressure sensor would be the place to start. If the switch is bad, the engine tries to start because power to the pump at startup is fed through the ECM's fuel-pump-relay drive (connection A1).
The relays changed in late '87. Relay No. 14089936 operated the MAF power, burn-off, and fuel pump. Although not always accurate, the connectors for the 9936 relay are the gray connector for the burn-off circuit and the black connector for the MAF power circuit. You'll notice that the new connectors are weather pack connectors to seal out moisture.
To check that the MAF burn-off is getting power, look for 12 volts at the MAF connector position E.
If you get a Code 36, MAF burn-off malfunction, it should immediately reveal itself at startup and it won't affect performance. '85 Corvettes will never show a Code 36, only '86-'89 Corvettes. You can check to see if the ECM is calling for an MAF burn-off by running the car for at least 5 minutes, and checking the black wire at connection F (circuit 900) on the gray connector. It should be grounded for approximately 30 seconds. This is the ECM grounding the wire to actuate the relay. If there is no ground, the ECM is at fault. If you have ground, check the power to the relay. If the relay is sending power to the MAF, check that the dark blue wire (position D) on the MAF sensor connector has power.
(See Previous Caption)
Chris has spent some time adding wires, meters, test lights, and jumpers, chasing down several specific reasons why Codes 34 and 33 will appear. Here is what he found: The dark green wire from the ECM to the MAF (circuit 998) can short to ground or short together with circuit 450 (black or black/white) and cause a Code 34. To get a Code 33, circuits 998 or 450 could have an open circuit. Recently, Chris has seen a few cars for which the only cure was to run new wires for both circuits. This cured the intermittent codes immediately.
Checking The Minimum Idle Air: The first step in checking the minimum idle air is to put the car into Field Service Test Mode. Do this by putting a spade connector into the A and B positions of the ALDL connector. With the key on and the engine off, the fan will turn on and the SES light will flash. Also, the Idle Air Controller (IAC) will fully close.
on to the links http://www.corvettefever.com/techart...odes_problems/
In red is where i found the .02 volts.
04-11-2011, 03:06 PM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
Bump...
04-11-2011, 05:30 PM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
i had an untraceable 33 error until i checked my prom, and watched the maf from my aldl, the max mass air to rpm chart was too low so it would throw a 33 when nothing was wrong, after i raised the values i stopped getting it
04-11-2011, 08:29 PM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
Thx for the reply.Interesting.I purchased the car with this issue but it was fixed for awile with a new maf then blam 200 miles later its back.I couldnt wait i have already stripped down the entire harness and cant find a single bad wire or intermittent connection.Its like its getting a gost code or something.My egr is no good but i don't get a egr code maybe a bad solenoid?Im hopeing that the egr isnt the cause for the maf code.Im researching (On this site) chip programming basics ect and am definitely getting a setup to read/write and delete chips.It will be fun to get drunk and tune 
This car is almost bone stock but give me two years and ima make one (street able) evil sob out of it.I feel like before i go building the car up first i have a need to still learn more than i do now.I have been repairing cars/trucks/vans for 15 years now and its alot different than tuning.Itll take a lil while to learn (i like challenges).Just for now got the kid in football and need this car up and running for his practice and games.I figure this winter will be great time to start the project.Do you think just the headers i installed+y pipe+3'' flowmaster catback could cause this?everything else is stock that im aware of except the coil/msd 6al box.I cant wait to start tinkering around inside my prom.Im almost certain something is wrong in it.Please any further help would be awesome thx!
This car is almost bone stock but give me two years and ima make one (street able) evil sob out of it.I feel like before i go building the car up first i have a need to still learn more than i do now.I have been repairing cars/trucks/vans for 15 years now and its alot different than tuning.Itll take a lil while to learn (i like challenges).Just for now got the kid in football and need this car up and running for his practice and games.I figure this winter will be great time to start the project.Do you think just the headers i installed+y pipe+3'' flowmaster catback could cause this?everything else is stock that im aware of except the coil/msd 6al box.I cant wait to start tinkering around inside my prom.Im almost certain something is wrong in it.Please any further help would be awesome thx!
04-12-2011, 10:39 AM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
Ok what should the maf volume be at say idle and then say at 2000 rpm?
I need to check again but i believe at idle im pulling 6.
I need to check again but i believe at idle im pulling 6.
04-19-2011, 09:36 PM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
Nightmares do come true.Just finally getting it back together and did not find a single bad connection or bad wire in the entire harness. 
I guess when its finally put back together Ill hope for the best even tho i havent changed anything.Cant wait to get this figured out.
I guess when its finally put back together Ill hope for the best even tho i havent changed anything.Cant wait to get this figured out.
09-10-2011, 12:05 PM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
Hi,I just wanted to follow up my thread so possibly i could help someone else.I want to start off by saying thank you again.I have finally found my issue with my MAF code 33.Talk about a bear to find especially in my case.Long story short here i had checked every wire and all the relays,voltages ect and couldn't find anything.through the aldl connector i scanned the data and the ecm was in fact receiving the proper voltages and flow.(as far as i could see).I was running a MSD 6al ignition box it was mounted on the front of the car as in the pic.I got a wild itch to disconnect the ignition system and return it to stock.Blam issue is gone.Im assuming that there was a electrical interference coming from the box that was causing the MAF to throw the MAF code 33 code.Talk about a mind bender.
The box was about a foot from the MAF sensor.So its not out of the question if your getting a MAF code 33 that it might possibly be from electrical interference if your running an after market ignition system.My next test is going to relocate the MSD unit and see if i still receive
this interference.Its hard to believe how finicky this unit can be.
Good luck to everyone in finding their individual cause for their maf code thx for the input and good luck!
The box was about a foot from the MAF sensor.So its not out of the question if your getting a MAF code 33 that it might possibly be from electrical interference if your running an after market ignition system.My next test is going to relocate the MSD unit and see if i still receive this interference.Its hard to believe how finicky this unit can be.
Good luck to everyone in finding their individual cause for their maf code thx for the input and good luck!
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09-11-2011, 04:16 PM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
I never did follow up, I have a 6a box but its right in front of the blower motor, anyways I actually started getting the 33 again after a month or so...
still at exactly 1/4 throttle, In my 85 service manual i discovered that at 1/4 is when the computer checks if the value is out of the max range, anyways...
my tps started going bad after only a year (BDW advanced auto parts) so I went to Auto zone and got the duralast one, it looked a lot more like the tps in my friend's 90 IROC after installing that I haven't received a 33 yet...
I'll sit at 1/4 for a bit and see what it does... if that doesn't work i'll try setting all the values to 255 and see what it does... the other interesting thing was when I was recording the aldl datastream and getting a 33 error i'd eather have a perfectly normal g/s reading or it would drop to 0? so very strange but who knows
still at exactly 1/4 throttle, In my 85 service manual i discovered that at 1/4 is when the computer checks if the value is out of the max range, anyways...
my tps started going bad after only a year (BDW advanced auto parts) so I went to Auto zone and got the duralast one, it looked a lot more like the tps in my friend's 90 IROC after installing that I haven't received a 33 yet...
I'll sit at 1/4 for a bit and see what it does... if that doesn't work i'll try setting all the values to 255 and see what it does... the other interesting thing was when I was recording the aldl datastream and getting a 33 error i'd eather have a perfectly normal g/s reading or it would drop to 0? so very strange but who knows
09-11-2011, 05:54 PM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
Thats exactly what i was getting for some time there.After awhile it started throwing the code instantly after 10 seconds of run time.I haven't got the code back while idling in the garage yet.I hope its really gone for good.Im waiting on some parts for my rear axle atm.Once i receive them i will toss the rear end back in and finally get to drive the car more.
It really sounds the same as the issue i was having red, you might want to make sure that msd box (and wires) are away from the maf wires.I sure hope it helps you.Please if you get yours figured out please post back with the results thx.
On second thought if it drops to zero thats not good i never had that happen!I belive the dark green wire is the signal wire that goes back to the ecm might wana check that wire bro!
It really sounds the same as the issue i was having red, you might want to make sure that msd box (and wires) are away from the maf wires.I sure hope it helps you.Please if you get yours figured out please post back with the results
thx.On second thought if it drops to zero thats not good i never had that happen!I belive the dark green wire is the signal wire that goes back to the ecm might wana check that wire bro!
Last edited by formulax4; 09-11-2011 at 05:59 PM.
09-11-2011, 05:56 PM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
oops! dub post.
09-20-2011, 11:53 PM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
i have the MSD 8.5 wires that claim to reduce "noise" so who knows.. anyways.. it wont give me that 33 unless i'm on the highway now... I set the supposed MAX g/s values all to 255 with no change... still always at about 1/4 throttle
the oddest thing of it though is if i turn the car off (going over 40) and let the TCC lockup restart the car the code wont come back on... but if I pull over and turn the car off.. let it sit.. and turn it back on I can get a 33 again?
I feel if it was interference it wouldn't be so consistent? so it could be my big MAS module for all i know, I'm switching to an 89 computer as soon as I can, maybe It'll go away or maybe i'll get more info on whats happening after the swap
the oddest thing of it though is if i turn the car off (going over 40) and let the TCC lockup restart the car the code wont come back on... but if I pull over and turn the car off.. let it sit.. and turn it back on I can get a 33 again?
I feel if it was interference it wouldn't be so consistent? so it could be my big MAS module for all i know, I'm switching to an 89 computer as soon as I can, maybe It'll go away or maybe i'll get more info on whats happening after the swap
09-21-2011, 03:38 PM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
Will
10-05-2011, 12:23 AM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
When I put my car at 1/4 throttle it does the same thing u guys are talking about. It sounds like a miss? I have tps low code 22 I think? Then 33 and 36?
10-05-2011, 09:53 AM
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Re: Another maf code 33 Issue/thread
Hey there drew! The low tps could aggravate the code 33.Make sure the tps is set close to .54 with a volt meter or through a scanner.Secondly the code 36 could be a bad burnoff relay,Check or replace the burnoff circuit/relay.If you fix the code 36 and 22 then check this out or follow the flow chart for diagnosis.IMO i think the code 22 and 36 should be fixed before the code 33.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ible-code.html
http://chevythunder.com/maf_code_33.htm
If you follow the information here you can solve this.I'm sure.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ible-code.html
http://chevythunder.com/maf_code_33.htm
If you follow the information here you can solve this.I'm sure.
Last edited by formulax4; 10-05-2011 at 09:56 AM.
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