EDGE

Amazon has the Flowmaster heat shield. Call flowmaster and find out what one fits the 80, width wise. They have one that's a bit to long but it's better because it overhangs the muffler a few inches on either side. I can't remember the number but I have it. Also, Amazon has Thermotec heat shield material. It's a silver/mylar type thing. Comes with plastic push pins. I installed that on my original heat shield. It's a sheet that you cut to fit. So I have the factory shield, with the Thermotec, and the flowmaster shield on top of the muffler.

87gtaredonred

Hey EDGE, where does one find a new canister?? I saw you said you got one for your car, do u have a part number??

EDGE

Delco 17075855. I found a NOS one on eBay last year. It's a tough find. I wouldn't even consider a used one. You may have to find a none stock one that will work.

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

Most parts website have them, including amazon (depending on car year)

Just search for it, and put your car info in.

This one is the one for my car, probably same for yours since they don't sell them without the silonoid anymore I don't think. If not, may be adaptable to work since the other p/n is hard to find.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9K3J2/

Johnny*G

Thanks for the info! Ordered! as for the canister, i found one part number 17092109 for TPI cars

hilltop530

Check this stuff out. Works great. I would try to do a very deep scrub on the tank and, put it on, then reinstall the stock shields. This is self adhesive and, is a noise / heat shield. I use it under my hood to kill the header heat on the hood. Seems to be doing the job.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-050130

vinny R

I live in So Flo where we get mid 90's with 100+ heat index's. I DD my car and sometimes for long distances. The first thing that needs to work properly is that UFO valve. I don't think you can buy them but you can remove it and clean it so it functions properly. This is what controls that tank pressure. Someone posted in another thread that he rep;aced his with an old school vent that just vents into the atmosphere. You can't do this if you are in an emission state. I think the OP is right on with modern fuels being the problem. I don't know if this is witchcraft or coincidence but I am old school and I use Marvel Mystery oil EVERY time I fill up. The other day I was out of it and filled the tank. On my way home after about 20 min and my engine temp reaching 220 I heard that "whine" over the exhaust when I came to a stop. The noise continued the rest of the way home. I thought the pump was dying. The next morning I started the car and no whine. I stopped that day and restocked the Marvel Mystery oil, treated the tank of fuel and 3 tanks later no fuel pump noise. The car hit 230 the other day and no whine whatsoever.

Johnny*G

ok, reporting back... so installed the flowmaster shield. Still boils or bubbles when hot. Going with heat stick-on shield for the tank next. Found pressure relief in changing to things: went to a 1998-up fuel tank pressure valve. It is Green. lets pressure out sooner. The older white ones let pressure build up too much. Then changed the cap to stant NAPA p/n 7031623. Pressure does not build up even close. Still do not like the boiling in the tank though.... may need to wait until next summer to test the next steps.

87gtaredonred

Are you running 2 heat shields now?? or did you just replace the factory one with the flowmaster, the key to a heat shield or thermal barrier is a good air gap if I'm making sense.

Johnny*G

Yes, i have both, stock and flowmaster shields. clearance is 1 1/2"

87gtaredonred

yeaaa, I think u have the excact same problem as me, your car is fine on a cooler day like 75 and below right? I think the heat of the day mixed in with exhaust heat and heat soaked fuel getting returned to the tank makes for an interesting drive lol. You need to reroute your return line that should help you out a lot if not fix your up

Johnny*G

YES! same EXACT deal. Where do you reroute the return line? I truly appreciate the info, been battling this for months!

87gtaredonred

Look up just a few post i posted a pic of my setup

dyeager535

What's your fuel pressure?

Not sure why anyone has this problem and yet it's not 100%. It's unlikely a design flaw unless it's confined to certain regions or certain vehicle combinations.

87gtaredonred

If your asking me its like 45 with vac line off

dyeager535

Actually asking Johnny, but either way.

What's it run with the regulator connected?

87gtaredonred

With line connected off top of my head right at 40 maybe little under

Johnny*G

fuel pressure is 46 unplugged, 40 plugged. i was going to go higher but that may make it worse.

Johnny*G

so last few weeks the weather in Colorado was hot. I went for a few drives and now when i cruise across town and sit in traffic the fuel pressure vent starts making a loud noise and the fuel vapors are unbearable. I have not rerouted the return line yet. Can't see how this needs re-engineered. I am rebuilding the ENTIRE evap system today with all new gm parts. Will report back. I am once again at a loss with this stupid car

Touareg

I have had this problem for 7 years, turns out the solenoid valve to the eval canister had died, a $30 part, solved this for me. No more pressure, boiling, vent noises, or poor idle.

deeznuts94

Gotta keep this thread alive. I had this issue last summer twice and once so far this summer. Only on 90+ degree days here in Michigan in stop and go traffic. I am getting a bad smell of fuel in the car, tons of pressure when I remove the fuel cap, whiny sound coming from the tank, and poor idle or stalling. Once the car cools off it will start right back up and run perfectly. I guess I will start with a new canister and start replacing stuff from there.

Touareg

Listen for a click when you turn the car off, from the drivers side fender, that will indicate the solenoid valve is working...

deeznuts94

Thanks, I will check next time. Looks like replacement stuff is relatively inexpensive

JCB250r

I live in Central Florida and DD my car. I have been experiencing the same fuel overheating issue, so i replaced the pump with a new AC Delco, and it is doing the same exact thing. My canister works correctly, FP regulator is working, 20 Amp fuel pump fuse cleaned up, fuel pump relay replaced. The fuel is the problem, I put Marvel Mystery oil in it, and it took the fuel pump cutting out away.

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

Your last sentence probably has a typo in it somewhere. The fuel tank vent valve was the cause of my problems with the fuel pump. I burned up 2 pumps including a Walbro before I figured out it was the vent. If you have an excessive amount of hissing after removing the gas cap after a drive then it's probably the vent valve. Remove it, clean it with something like electrical contact cleaner spray or maybe even WD40, then reinstall. May just need cleaned up. Also, replace the fuel filter if not done already.

MrPink

iTrader: (6)

I don't think there was a typo. I believe that JCB250R is saying that the addition of Marvel Mystery oil prevented his car from doing the 'ol "fuel-overheating/vaporizing and then the car stalls trick" that so many of us have experienced and have come to love with a passion. One of the theories is that, the 10/15% ethanol added to modern fuel does not 'get along' with TPI and that switching to 100% gas (hard to find) or adding something like Marvel can fix the root cause. For example, my gas tank vent valve is just fine, but the car would still overheat the fuel and stall out on hot days. Using 100% gas, if you can find it, is worth a try for those battling this issue.