89 tpi 305 when cold i have to start it about six times to get it to stay running idles great then when i go to take off it dies on me every time once it warms up a little i can take off if i floor it it sputters for a min then takes off but my car is way too loud to do that in town plus i cant drive it like this

i got bosch lll injectors from southbay very recently
replaced cts
replaced knock sensor
swapped maf with a diff one
cleaned out intake
replaced all vacuum lines
timing is at 6
tps is at .54
fuel pressure is 45 psi
ohm tested tps seems alright


i dont know what else to do right now

 

Have you looked at your idle air control valve in the throttle body? When I have had this type of problem in the past, the IAC valve was dirty and not able to move causing the car to die on cold start ups. Make sure your throttle body is cleaned out and the IAC is good and clean. Good luck.

 

ya when i put the injectors in i took the iac out and cleaned that and the throttle body real good thanks for the suggestion though

 

Did you check the fuel pressure at the rails? Or just set it using an adjustable regulator? Make sure you check the pressure at the rails using a gauge and see if it jumps around (bad pump).

Hope this helps.

 

I would also check the fuel pressure. How are the plugs in it? When you cleaned the IAC valve, did you also reset the minimum air?

 

fuel filter?

 

Thats where I'd start. Anyone notice that that the gas seems to be getting crappier these days?

 

yes i checked the pressure at the rail with a gauge its right at 45 psi where i always ran it before and yes fuel filter was the first thing i did sorry forgot to mention it i also put a ac delco fuel pump in about a month ago after fighting with autozone to get my money back because their pumps are nothing but junk and no i dont know how to reset the minimum air

 

You need to do things in a very specific order. You MUST set the minimum idle speed FIRST. Everything else needs to be checked and adjusted after the minimum idle speed is set.

"� First step is to set the minimum idle speed. If
nobody has messed with this on your car before, the set screw will be
covered by a pressed-in plug. It’s located on the driver’s
side of the TB. Remove this plug if it’s there.
� With the
IAC connected and the ignition “OFF,” stick the paper clip
into the diagnostic connector from “A” to “B.”
This grounds the diagnostic lead.
� Turn the ignition to the
“ON” position without starting the engine. Wait 30
seconds.
� Now, with the ignition still in the “ON”
position, disconnect the IAC connector at the IAC.
� Remove the paper
clip from the diagnostic connector.
� Start the engine and allow
it to reach normal operating temperature. The idle speed will probably be
really low, and you may have to coax the engine a bit with the gas pedal
to keep it running for a while.
� If your car is an automatic, set
the parking brake and put the transmission in “DRIVE.” If your
car is a manual, leave it in neutral.
� Adjust the idle speed
screw to obtain 400 rpm in drive or 450 in neutral.
� Shut off
the engine and re-connect the IAC.

by Lars Grimsrud
SVE
Automotive Restoration
Musclecar, Collector & Exotic Auto Repair &
Restoration
Broomfield, CO
Rev. New 6-15-00"

After you do this procedure, check the TPS voltage on your car. IF you are using a TPI with adjustable TPS, make sure the TPS voltage is .54. Later TPI does not use an adjustable TPS, I think that setting the correct curb idle speed will result in TPS voltage of .54? maybe someone can comment on that.

One hint, when you are doing the minimum idle speed with the jumper in and the ignition on, do you hear the IAC valve "buzzing" or "clattering"? The IAC will be trying to close during the test IF it is operating properly. The IAC must open and close to control the running idle speed, depending on the loads applied to the engine.

 

ok so what happens if i dont have a diagnostic connector can i still set it right also my tach does not work properly (saving up for a new one) i should probly mention this motor is in a 77 chevy nova

 

What do you mean you do not have a diagnostic connector? I have never seen a harness without one. Did you cut up the original Camaro Harness when you did the transplant into the Nova? Or are you using an Aftermarket Harness? Either way, you should have the ADL connector.

Yes, I saw you were working on a "transplant", you might notice that I have one as well. There is no reason NOT to have a ADL Connector, in fact you are pretty much screwed if you do not have one.

 

i got the motor pretty cheap from a friend whoever took it out for him for some reason removed that connector i would like to have one but have no clue how to track down the wires to put one in

 

ok i made a little progress today but it makes no sense
there is no more hard start and i got a TON of power back but there is still a little hesitation
the odd thing is that now the fuel pressure is around 55psi and the timing is about 10*
which i know is too high for both but it runs WAY better like that

anyone have any ideas why this is

 

so what did you end up doing to get that better change

 

10 degrees base timing is what my 305 calls for. 55 PSI with the engine running? Did this just happen? Or did you work on it? What did you do to cause these changes? Does the ECM connector still have all the wires in the harness? If it does, then all you need to do is find the right wires (color code and wiring diagram will be needed) and get an ADL connector and splice it to the right wires. That SHOULD be a simple job.

 

i set the fuel pressure there just to see what happened and it got better i think it still wants more but im scared the fuel pump wont be able to handle it for too long and as far as i know all the wires are there but i really dont know not even sure which ones to look for i figured maybe if i got aldl connector from junk yard it would help me find the wires it hooks straight to the ecm right