i have 91 z l98 , when its cold its starts right up, sometimes i think it starts to fast. but when its t running tempature and i try to start it up, its cranks alot before starting. its a healthy crank. i thought i could of been a leacky injector, but am i wrong?

 

turn the key to on but not start. give it a few seconds then crank it over and see if it starts right away or the same. not uncommon for this to happen to older fuel injected cars

 

I think the most common cause is injectors leaking fuel into the cylinders after you shut the engine off.
If this is the case then check your oil for fuel contamination, because fuel in the oil can eventually trash your bearings.

With leaky injectors you can shut the engine off hot, then start it right back up within a minute or two and it starts just fine, but after sitting 5 or 10 minutes it cranks for a while before starting. After an hour or more of sitting it starts fine once again, even if still hot.

 

You might want to check the resistance on the injectors both hot and cold. The stock injectors on these cars are extremely prone to coil failure. They may ohm out fine when they are cold, however it is common for them to shut down when hot.

www.southbayfuelinjectors.com
516-492-6504

 

how much should they read cold or hot?

 

i cant see no gas on my oil. but i think my bearings are destroyed since last time i did oil change, found little pieces of metal on old oil

 

I'm not familiar with TPI cars, but what about your fuel pressure regulator? easy cold starts, hard warm starts sounds like the FPR.

-OSS

 

I've never had a fuel pressure regulator cause that problem. I have had it happen from a bad coolant temperature sensor. If that goes bad, it tells the computer it's -40 outside. When the car is cold it can still start, but if it's warm, it floods it.

 

The ohms on the injectors should be a minimum of 12.0 or above.

 

Unlikely that you would see it, but you might smell it or notice the oil being thinner than usual.

 

pull out the injector connector while whit ignition on? and test? test connection too or just injector.?

 

actualy does look thinner. **** have to pull the fuel rail again..grrrr

 

Pull the fuel rail, but don't disconnect the injectors or their connectors from the fuel rail. Hold up the rail so that you can see the bottom of each individual injector, then have someone put the ignition in "Key On" only (do not try to start the engine). If the injectors are leaking, you will immediately see which one's are...

 

Make sure your Flux Capacitor is getting the correct voltage.

 

how if the gas lines prevent me from lifting the fuel rail?

 

Was this question for me? There is a 9/16 bolt on the front of the intake manifold that secures the fuel lines in place so that they don't move, just unbolt that, then unbolt the fuel rail bolts, then very easily "pry" the fuel rail upwards. Be aware that it would be much easier if you also remove the plenum and runners, beforehand...

 

thx. but dont you have to take the plenum anyway to get the fuel rail out