today i bought a 1985 i-roc camaro. it is a great car. it is a 305 with TPI i changed the plugs in it and got all that lined out.there is one problem. the car will not idle. it idles horrible. when the car is cold and not warmed up is the only time it will idle. After about 7-10 minutes after the car is warmed up the idle gets worse. it will not sustain itself. when you rev it up its dumps tons of black smoke out the tail pipes. then after that promptly dies. its annoying. what would be causing it to do this?? please help. *The check engine light doesnt work, so i dont know if its something like that or not.

 

btw, the smog/pullotion pump is gone off of this car..

 

.. The O2 sensor may be dirty or bad... preventing going from warmup open loop to O2 sensor controlled cold loop... need to put a new bulb in the SES light so that you can get codes and see just what is wrong...

.. This same problem is discussed in several threads just below...

 

thank you. its a start. would that also make it run rich and dump all the black smoke?? could other things like the coolant temp sensor, tps, or anything else make it act the way it does? and how do you change bublb in ses light?? thanks..

 

engine not sure but good start above. Changing the bulb... Torx T15 and take out the dash cover screws then the screws behind that panel to get of plastic cover - you will see the bulbs. The dummy lights are tough to get out, might need some sort of pliers just to grab softly and pull unless you have real skinny fingers -

 

if my pullution pump is bad will that make it run bad?? also what is making it run rich?? thank you..

 

Update: I replaced the u2 sensor. It did not help. The car is warmed up and still does not idle and is running rich.

 

did you try to disconnect the MAF and see what it does?

 

I have not done that yet. But I do know it has a brand new MAF sensor on it. Tomorrow I'm replacing the tps. Wish me luck. If it's not that it has to be fuel, injectors or pump..

 

Could be leaky injectors. A bad coolant temp sensor can also make it run rich if it's telling the ECM that the engine is always cold.

Sometimes the connectors go bad too. I kept getting a code my my IAT sensor, turned out it was the connector.

 

Today, I replaced the tps. It didn't change a thing on how the car runs.. :/ I'm stumped. How do you test injectors or see if their bad??

 

When the car gets warmed up it starts to run horrible. And will not idle.

 

Was going to ask if it's throwing codes but I see the eng light is out. Nevermind.

 

I borrowed a scanner today. It has not thrown any codes at all. :/

 

Does the car have a fuel pressure regulator on it with the electric pump?

 

As of tonight i have made my mind up and i am dumping the tuned port injection. I have another 305 motor to drop in it with a mechanical fuel pump. since the car has an electric fuel pump, what will i have to do for the lines and stuff? the original lines runs up the drivers side of the car, the mechanical is on the passenger. will i have to run all new fuel lines on the car or can i use the stock ones and run a line across the front of the car to the pump? please help. thank you.. tpi is junk lol

 

I know that you've got your mind set on replacing your motor with a non-TPI 305, but honestly I think you should try to diagnose the problem before throwing dollar bills at it.

My Z28 I bought recently had some issues and no SES light as well. I replaced the bulb, as it was blown, only to find out that it was throwing MAF codes. I discovered that my MAF was unplugged. Connecting it eliminated the codes, but the idle shot through the roof. This problem was caused by the IAC being seized. I replaced it, now all is well!

Be patient and try to figure out what the issues are before throwing it overboard. I think its a great system when running properly.

 

You think you have probs now? Wait till you have to deal with a carb every day. You will hate it.
If you don't have a GM service manual from HELM its like pushing a cooked noodle up a hill just trying to "guess" what your car is doing/not doing.
Learn to use the manual. Its worth EVERY penny.
I have put 400,000 miles on my TPI cars. Lot less trouble than my 73 formula and 73TA

Have your distributor pickup coil and Ign control mod tested when hot. also check your coil.
Make sure all your grounds are clean and tight.

Also if the car has K&N filters make sure the Maf wire is clean.

 

I agree, I should be a little more patient with it. I have had a scanner hooked to it and nothing comes up. I can't possibly think of whats making it run bad. It's symptoms are: running super rich, Erratic idle, when it gets warmed up after 5 minutes it won't idle. Pollution pump was removed before I bought the car.

 

The AIR pump has NO bearing on your problem.

check the vac line on the fuel psi regulator for raw fuel. If there Is fuel in it your fuel psi diaphram is bad. can get a new one at any parts store

 

I love Carbs so much better than fuel injection. Get in pump it couple times and start it. Not to hard at all. They are a lot easier to work on them electronic stuff also. Lol. I'm putting at demon 950 double pumper on it off of the spare race engine we have in the shop. All fuel injection is gone off of it!

 

I would like to thank everyone for the help!

 

Cool. Good luck. Wait a 950 on a 305??? yowza.

 

Might be a little big...but oh well. Lol i'll get it to run right!

 

lol ok.. What are you doing with the TPI Distributor??

 

Sittig it aside for anyone else who could use it. Since it won't work. I've picked out an HEI with a super blaster module inside for the distributor. And for Intake a edlebrock RPM performer dual plane. All spare stuff. Lol

 

quick update, since i have put my carb, distributor and intake on this car it runs amazing!
not a problem. im having the electric pump run and pump fuel to the mechanical pump which is pumping right off of it. car is great.