after building my car and having put 10,000 miles on her, i now know why so many vin " f " cars are sporting carburetors.now i know why everyone just rips that stuff off and go carb. constant rolling idle,dying at stop signs ,hesitation on trying to take off, 12 MPGtops,replaced every sensor ,injector,gas tank,fuel pump ,relay ,on and on.and its a new bone stock 305.and as for help......forget any of that here.no garage will touch it,they all say they cant help me , so in order to have a car i can actually drive,i too must rip off my TPI unit and go carb.....damn shame too.i was hoping to keep my IROC complete .apparently my only other choice is to just sell the car and buy a honda. RIP TPI camaro.i loved you very much.

 

strange, my car runs fine with that stuff.

 

Mine too & have gotten 21mpg out of a 350 with an Automatic tranny (700R4) & 3.27 posit rear. With a 305 I bet I could get 25mpg/26mpg.

 

if only mine would also,id be happy as a bug in a rug.for me there is nothing left to replace.nothing left to adjust. it all tests out ok ,but i get a rolling idle stalling ,hesatation,crappy mileage ect.a code 32, a code 44. it dont want to start .it dont want to run.it dies when you give it gas on and on and on

 

Change the fuel filter, o2 sensor and adjust the TPS. If you can't handle working on your own car, you shouldn't own one of these.

 

I've got a small idle issue where I can stall sometimes that I'm trying to track down (I'm thinking leaking injectors) but it just sounds to me like you need to figure out how to work on this car. My 305 TPI runs otherwise just fine and I get 25-6 plus mpg on the highway. Code 32 wasn't a difficult fix for me when I had it. Spent a day working out in the rain (no garage at my college apartment) to fix it, problem solved.

What tests have you run? I imagine you obviously omhed injectors, did you get them flow checked? Have you taken a look at the pulsator above the fuel pump? If you've picked up a new O2 sensor what brand did you put on? The Bosch ones tend to be finicky with these engines. There are a myriad of things to take into consideration. These units are removed because they are problematic. They are removed in mechanical ignorance (or for better top end breathing on the track, but that's a different can of worms).

 

Mine too & have gotten 21mpg out of a 350 with an Automatic tranny (700R4) & 3.27 posit rear. With a 305 I bet I could get 25mpg/26mpg.


No, it's impossible for a 305 tpi to get better than 18 mpg city, I've tried. However I do get 28 hwy.
As far as TPI being impossible to fix, it isn't you just need to know what you're doing.

 

check for vacuum leaks......i had a gasket fail on lower runner to base. It cause my 91 trans am to do all this and more lol

i came "this" close to lighting car on car lol but go figure a dollar gasket was my issue.

 

The 44 from a faulty O2 sensor ( or wiring ) would not be helping your cause
If you replace the sensor could be a wiring problem seeing the code is still active

 

Sounds like to me the EGR valve is in the open position - that'll cause a rough idle, hesitation and stumble off idle. I also could see where that could set a lean code 44.

Try unplugging the vacuum line to the EGR and plugging the loose hose and see if it runs better like that. There's a EGR solonoid that controls the opening and closing of the EGR and I've seen these "by-passed" or left off in "rebuilds" and people run direct manifold vacuum to the EGR. If you don't see an improvement after disconnecting the vacuum to the EGR,, the valve could still be physically stuck open.

I'd trouble shoot the EGR system before doing anything else.

 

make sure you do not have any exhaust leaks near, or before your o2 sensor. i would replace your maf relay, and maf burn off relay. and get them from your chevy dealer, aftermarket ones arent worth a damn (theres a whole thread about it). deffinatly check out them injectors. i know a tpi can make you wanna tear your hair out sometimes, but its always something small and simple and feels so much better once its figured out. dont be afraid to take it to someone who knows what they are doing

 

You know what helped me alot was getting on here and reading older post of other peoples problems. For the most part its all been done before. Most of my problems have come from crappy quality replacement parts, usually made in china. If you want it to run right, learn...

 

Couldn't agree more. We are talking about 20+ year old cars here. At this point, they are at the age where they need some parts replaced and good maintenance. It takes a lot of patience and sometimes $$$.

I'm on my 6th one and through all the blood, sweat, curse words, tools thrown from time to time. I wouldn't change it for anything. It all pays off when you're done and the car kinda makes you forget about it all. Get her right and she'll repay you big time. Nothing is impossible and it's not always about taking the easy way.

 

We found a fusible link was the issue keeping our buddy's TPI Camaro from running.

Oh, and if you want a carbed 86 Iroc Z I have a factory one! I'll cheerfully take your TPI set up one.

 

Well if you have codes, that would probably explain why your having trouble with the car... right?

Everything thats been said is very true and good advice, although you didnt say what you have done in an attempt to fix the problems, I would say first check for vacc leaks. The gasket on the EGR is famous for developing leaks. I belive the plenum and runners/intake is prone to it too. This is a VERY EASY thing to test for, take something like carb cleaner/tb cleaner and spray it all over the intake and other areas you belive may have a leak. Pay very close to the idle speed while doing this- if it drops when you spray a certain area you have a leak in that area somewhere that needs to be corrected. This can take just 5-10min to do and could make a big difference for you.

32 & 44 and common codes; everybody else has been able to fix theres, im sure you can too.

Check for leaky injectors. Also, make sure they're in spec and within .5 of each other. Leaky injectors can cause it to misfire and stall, as your saying yours does.

Check fuel pressure. Check it at idle AND while revving it, both very important. Make sure your doing it right too, i had a mechanic tell me my FP was too low, came to find he did it wrong and it was fine.

There is a list of what every code is on this site - find the list and try to fix the problems.

Also, a word of advice. IDK how long your car sat/ if it did at all. But mine sat for a few yrs before i bought it, it turned out my tank had rusted out real bad,past fixing. The sending unit was shot too. Fuel pump and filter needed to be replaced as well as cleaning the fuel lines.

Good luch, hope you get it fixed. Keep us updated