I have an IROC with the 305 TPI all stock, and I need to replace my o2 sensor. The question is should I just use a regular one or the 3 wire heated one that many people talk about?? I know this subject has been bitten to death around here but I couldn't find anyone who DOES'NT have headers that actually used the 3 wire o2 sensor. If I'm running all stock is there really any point of putting the heated 3 wire o2 sensor??
I don't know if it matters or not but I'm running 180' stat and 180' fan switch
which makes the engine run a little more cooler than stock.
Any thoughts??

Thanks in advance.

 

I would'nt waste your money on the 3wire unless you live in alaska Only takes a normal 02 sensor a very very short time to heat up.

 

That is not true. A lot of these cars fall out of closed loop at idle, so you will gain mpg( not a lot), lower emissions, and your idle may get a bit smoother. I say go for it if you are replacing the O2.

 

Part number for the sensor.
25312179 (AFS-74)
Weather pack connector.
12126012 pt643

 

Thanks guys, I might just do that. I saw on amazon they sell both of these part together for $60 include free shipping/ My only concern was where exactly do I connect the power wire to, I know many people said to connect it to the wires going to the fuel pump relay, but which wire and how exactly do I splice and hook it up without doing any hack job???
also I saw a picture of the adapter with the wire coming out and seemed like all the wires were the same color, so how exactly you can tell which one goes to the computer and which one going to the power/ground??
If someone can post up some pictures it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Usually the sensor wire is a different color.
The other two wires are power and ground and it doesn't matter which one you use for which

From the pump relay
You want the output side of the pump relay so O2 heater only works when key is on; would flatten the battery if on the permanent 12V wire to the relay

Colors in your car most likely different to diagram below
but you want power wire connected to the red wire at either relay
or OP switch ( which may be closer to your O2 ; shorter wire run)

 

I use a bosch heated 02 sensor for a fox body mustang with long tube headers.
I also used the old single wire 02 sensor connector to plug into the factory wiring.
I ran a new wire (with a factory blade fuse)from the fuse box ign terminal down to the 02 sensor and hid it all in the factory wire loom. The 02 sensor ground is run up to the back of the head in factory wire loom.
Its very handy if you have probs along the road you can get the sensor anyplace.

 

you can also buy the pigtail from jims performance or tpi parts.net, accessory power, sensor ground to cylinder head, ecm signal wire.

http://www.tpiparts.net/inc/sdetail/2167

http://www.jimsperformance.com/carty.html

 

Thanks for the input guys...Those websites are pretty nice!!...So that pigtail solves the the ground and the computer connection problem but the power source still need to be sliced some where no?....do I just cut the wires that go to the power source and then add the sensor power wire or there is other way that is more "clean" to do that..?

 

I don't have a service manual to tell you where s10 is pin D of the cooling fan relay and s210 feed the alternator F of a cs alternator. The corvette Lt5 wires in there heated 02s in this manner

 

As clean as you make it ;
Strip some insulation off the power wire ( without cutting it ) ,
solder the new O2 power wire on ,tape up the joint and hide inside factory ducting

 

just a work of advice DON'T use scotch locks.

 

True story!!!!

 

Why not?

 

a exposed connection will corrode and fail, If you are going to splice solder and use shrink tubing to cover up the connection.

 

Only reason I suggested taping the soldered joint was you have to remove the wire ( with pin ) from the relay plug
to slide the heat shrink on and most stuff up the pin removal

 

I have a heated o2 from Meg's used for about a month 40.00 shipped

 

No to Scotch locks here as well, they should just call them hack locks instead lol

I ran mine straight to the fuse box if its a late model u should have a 3 amp ign on only space in the fuse box, easy instant connection. No fuss no muss.

If u have factory manifolds I really wouldn't waste time not effort, if u have headers, they tend to drop out of closed loop more especially at idle as others have said.

 

I don't have headers....you think I should still spent my time and money on the 3 wire sensor??

 

Not unless you have actual proof that the O2 sensor is dropping out @ idle
( which seldom happens with stock location / cast iron manifolds )

 

Imo is not much more money for the upgrade for a sensor that will help keep the car in closed loop and will stay cleaner and should last a little longer compared to a single wire 213-503.

 

it is much more actually....the sensor is almost $40 plus the wiring adapter around $25
vs 1 wire sensor that costs $20. If it will increase my chances in passing the smog test even though I have stock manifolds its worth it

 

unless you have a lazy o2s or faulty o2s it will not change your emissions results. I replace my o2s every 50K to make sure they are fast in response.

 

i've got shortie headers an my stock 02 does just fine . the car goes into closed loop just as fast as it did with stock manifolds .
an mine stays in closed loop at idle just like with stock manifolds ...

 

I think it takes around 2-3 mins of idle time with stock exhaust to go open loop.
forgive me if the time is off I'm going on memory from 20yrs ago..

 

Bottom line is I have stock manifolds, I'm on a budget, I'm not thrilled about splicing and dicing the wire harness, I'm having issues passing this car smog test every time, and obviously its running rich, so should I or not going with the heated o2 sensor..?

 

So you need to work out what is causing that , is the stock O2 dropping out( old age ) or is it another problem ?

Think you answered your own question

 

I did....however....if someone could tell me for a fact that although I have stock manifolds, there is a benefit in upgrading the sensor like MPG or lower emissions in idle then it is worth the hassle....but if not....

I don't know whats causing it, the o2 have 17000 miles on it give or take, also the spark plugs, ECM replaced....180' stat and fan switch, dscreened MAF....no check engine light
any thoughts..?

 

As has been stated by many previously ; unless you have PROOF the stock O2 is dropping out ;
installing a heated one will change nothing ( this of course assumes your existing O2 is actually working now )

Start a new thread about your actual problem; this one is a little stale now

 

these cars ru really rich from the factory anyway . you could get a wideband an see how rich it is . also it could be your tps going bad ...

 

my tps is good...I checked it 10 times with VM meter....I think I will just put a stock ACDELCO o2 sensor and hope for the best..