Got my 350 torn down for what started out as a simple head gasket replacement and cam swap. But what started out as a "350 with heads and a cam" when I bought the car, is looking more and more like "bone stock L05 with TPI slapped on". Probably my fault for not at least checking the head castings before buying it, but a L05 isn't the end of the world for my power goals. My problem is I only budgeted about $800 for a cam and associated valve train upgrades while I had the heads off, assuming they were at least ported stock castings. So I do the tear down and find I've got '191 swirlies and dished pistons, have yet to get the cam out but I'm pretty sure its stock too.

In light of all that I had to change directions. I'm gonna try to do something with my heads while I've got them off the car, can do the cam swap in a month or so when I have more money. I've done some searching and reading and have picked out several options that could work for me but wanted to get some input before I pull the trigger, as I'd really like to get my car back on the road and can't afford to be doing things twice.

I'm not sure if i should stay with my 191s, or try to find some decent 083s at pick and pull when i go down there in a few days. Could the 191s be ported enough on the intake side to work decently? I know the 083s can do fine with some port work. Everyone seems to think the swirlports are junk and you're better off with another stock casting, however being on a tight budget has forced me to consider other options. I don't have any experience porting so I would probably have to take them somewhere. I'd want to have the heads milled anywhere from 0.030" to 0.040" depending on what the stock castings can handle, want to get the chamber size down by 4-5cc if I go with a 64cc head. Another option would be using the smaller chamber 305 heads(like some 081s or possibly 416s) and having them setup to use the 1.94" valves. Would I run into valve shrouding issues with that setup? Any of the other heads I'm debating would be subject to what I can find in the yard in decent shape, and them cleaning up ok/not being cracked. If I can make the 191s perform decently with some port work, that would be the easiest option. After specing out valve train parts on summit(mostly placeholder stuff till I know exactly what I need), I come out to about $500 left over for head acquisition/machine work. If I really need more money for the heads I can hold off on a few things(like new rockers) till I do the cam, as long as I dont have to pull the heads again.

I'm planning on getting new rockers, springs, and valve seals. I'm assuming I can use the valves and any other hardware off my current heads if I do end up swapping, as they're in good working order. The only part that I've actually picked out are 1.5(would 1.6s be better for me?) roller tip rockers(summit SUM-141506) and felpro QSS72861 valve seals. Am I going to run into any issues using the stock pressed in studs with beefier springs? I also saw it mentioned that there could be clearance issues with centerbolt valve covers and aftermarket rockers, is there any truth to this or does that only apply to full roller rockers? The springs are going to depend on what cam I go with(as long as they will fit the stock spring pockets). I was looking at using GM 10105117(4.000"x0.028") head gaskets, or possibly felpro Q1094(4.100"x0.015") if I need it and can safely get away with it.

I've haven't settled on a cam yet. I've heard good things about used LT1 stock cams and used LT4 hotcams, though I'm not sure if the hotcam would be a good fit with the rest of my parts. As mentioned earlier the cam is coming later, I just want to get everything setup for it so i can do the swap with as little headache as possible. I am however going to pull the current cam out to hopefully ID it, then put on a new timing set. On the subject of timing set, I cant really find anything on summit other than the gm 12371043(http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12371043/) that doesn't specifically say it wont work with a factory roller cam setup. Am I missing something simple?

Right now I'm assuming I have the L05 LD 12cc dished pistons based on eyeballing them(have yet to figure out a way to check them with the shortblock still in the car). The block currently has a roller cam. I'd like to end up with upper 9s to possibly 10.0:1 compression ratio, which should be doable if I have the 12cc pistons and can get my 64cc heads down to 59cc. Assuming standard piston to deck clearance of 0.025" in the hole(have not measured yet). I don't currently have access to a truck, so hauling the block off to get decked is out. I've been running and plan on continuing to run premium unleaded in it(either 91 or 92, its late and I can't remember what we have out here).

As far as other mods, the car has edelbrock shorty headers(dont know what size primaries off hand), and a 3" catback on it. Lower intake and plenum are stock and don't appear ported, it does have SLP runners however. I could probably handle port matching and rounding off my plenum, but I wouldn't want to attempt the lower intake right now, with no experience. I do have all the chip burning equipment for it so that's not an issue. Has 24lbs accell injectors, all of which ohm out good hot and cold. Fuel pressure holds steady at 43psi after priming the pump. Stock 700r4 and stall(originally a 305 car if it matters) with 2.73:1 posi rear. I also picked up new plugs, wires, and cap and rotor to go on when I put everything back together.

I'm not looking for tons of power as I'm planning on saving for an LS build about 9 months to a year off and it doesn't make sense to dump a ton of money into building this engine just to turn around and do it again a year later. Just want a fun driver with a little more hp than a stock L98, probably never see the track and if it does it will be on street tires. I'd be more than happy with high 200s/300 whp, but I'll take whatever I can get. This build probably wont see much time over 5k, I just want it to be able to have good bottom end and make decent power without falling off at 3500 or something goofy like that.

To explain why I was planning on doing a cam in this to begin with, in its present form it has has absolutely no power, wont even burn off. As far as broken/just plain wrong, I've got it narrowed down to either my o2 sensor going bad or my cam was swapped out for a non computer compatible cam(the closer I get my tune to 128/128, the worse it runs, and this is at ALL RPMs not just down low). Was just planning on doing a WB o2(run the computer off narrowband simulation) and a cam, until I overheated and my headgaskets started leaking. Not to mention I can hardly run any advance at all, the base timing was set to 4* ATDC when I got it, after setting it to the correct setting of 6* BTDC it idles better, but has MASSIVE missing/backfiring problems under any kind of load. Left my base timing at 6* and pulled 10* back out in the tune. The more timing I add back in, the worse/hotter it runs.

To make a long(possibly too long) story short:
Of the options listed what is the best way to approach doing heads for this engine(or am I way off base),
what cam should I be going for based off of that and the other work done to the car(and what valve train parts I'll need to go with),
and lastly am I missing anything obvious for all of this to work and go smoothly?
On a side note, if anyone out there can visually ID my piston or tell me how to check the volume with the block in the car that would be awesome. I attached a picture.

It looks like "budget/mild 350 build help" has been a fairly common topic recently in the TPI section, but I'm in kind of an oddball situation and figured I'd better post up. Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

If your really serious about the ls build in your future I'd stay with the heads that you already have. Take them to a good machine shop and have a hi-po multi angle valve job done on them, this will improve flow considerably. You can have the rocker studs pinned.

 

Id leave it stock and save for the Lsx youll get there that much quicker.

Porting iron heads is pricy and the gains arent worth the money.
Especially those. Ill take the flame job lol.

For the DIY guys that can port and dont care about #s then sure porting the heads leaving stock valves, also do the entire intake upgraded exhaust small used roller cam it could pick up nicely for not too much.