FUBAR'D...

I know I still need to do a comp check and a leakdown...but I know where this is going:

 

check the number 6 cylinder for compression and leak down. The plug looked like blow bye.

 

Youve for sure got some blowby. My fresh rebuilt motor had that exact thing happen with the puffs coming from the valve covers. My guess is your pistons/piston lost a ring land or top edge. I have pics of my pistons after disassembly. You might get lucky like me and be able to get by without needing a honing. But as I said, it was on a fresh rebuild so I had near perfect hone to begin with.

 

Tell me about it.....

 

So here it is; 3 wire heated o2....

With the harness install is a snap. Could easily be wired without on your own, Im just too lazy and prefer "plug and play".
o2 sensor into the harness, OE connector to harness connector...pink to 12v and black is ground.

PN for the 3 wire is shown, fits a ton of diff GM applications and avaialble just about everywhere from $40 on up.
I snagged the harness on eBay for $25

...off to emissions....

 

Fingers crossed , make sure you hooked the pink wire to a switched 12v

 

Just put it on the junction block...???

Anyway:


Emissions test 12/17/12

HC: 6.25 Pass: 4.0
CO: 101 Pass: 40.0
NOX: 4.4 Pass: 5.5

Re-tested today:

HC: 6.15 down from 6.25
CO: 27.3 down from 101
NOX: 6.35 up from 4.4 (AIR system?)

WTF?

 

I'm not sure if the junction comes directly from the battery. If it does the o2 heater will be on all the time causing a parasidic draw. It looks like your cat isn't helping at all. If you want the memcal changed to have a dip socket on it ill cover the shipping and parts and send you back a few chips. I'm not sure the effects on the nox bye not having the air injected into the exhaust. PM me if you want me to work on the memcal again.

 

1) double check o2 wiring...

2) possible bad cat.....

3) dip socket...?

 

Dip socket is a socket I could solder in the memcal. This would allow you to change calibrations. The EPROM is soldered in now. I'm not thinking taking off the air pump is your issue but ill help you out if you want.

 

Re-wired the o2 just to be safe. Dont think Ill need the dip socket and agree with you on the the AIR delete.

I think Im gonna try a new cat...maybe a full cat back.

 

Looks like you have true duals. I bought a catco high flow car from summit 8 years ago still working great and is real light weight.

 

Y pipe to single cat and muffler....pretty sure it's 3" all the way back.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cto-6907
This is what I put on my 92 silverado with a flow master 50 series, I don't have the print out from the last emission testing but it passed with flying colors.

 

More than likely going to get a new cat as I have absolutly no idea how old this one is.

As for getting pass emissions:

1) Try again with new cat.

2) If I can show $450 worth of reciepts for repairs (I def have a bit more than $450) I can get a wavier for 1 year.

3) Pull it and re-build or do a 400 swap....

Probably going to request the wavier, $15 fee. However a vehicle can only get 1 waiver...ever, regardless of how many owners it's had. I know mine hasn't, so if I get it, my vehicle will never we eligible for the wavier again....

....then I'll look at replacing the cat....I need to tweak the exhaust anyway due to the rear suspension...may even do muffler too....

...then start scouring CL for a 400 block. Its my understanding that if I go to Vortec heads and a Vortec-TPI manifold "everything" is a direct swap?

 

where im at, we use parts per million, or PPM, so i've never liked dealing with grams per mile, or GPM on exhaust emissions, but its what your state uses like many others.

odds are the NOx went up because with the O2 sensor working it leaned the motor out which raised combustion chamber temps.
pulling a little timing in the areas where they run the motor at during testing should reduce the NOx and may be enough to pass NOx.
normally pulling 2-4 degrees also reduces CO & HC.
but pulling to much timing can cause HC & CO to go up.

the AIR injection, or lack of it shouldn't affect NOx.
NOx is taken care of by the front bed in the cat.
the second half of the cat where the air is injected into is where HC & CO are handled at.
as a cat gets older it doesn't work as well, so a new cat may help.

 

Good info, thx.

 

Still have some blow-by.....yes, it's a band-aid fix, but hopefully it will work temporarily:

 

with 350 heads on a 400 you need to drill steam holes, a scoggin dickey or edelbrock vortec tpi base is all a direct bolt on with your tpi. If you are considering a 400 or even a 383 stroker you might want to look into a superram, tpis miniram or stealthram and add injectors to your build list.

 

Much longer starts when cold now...???



But when warm...

 

Im not sure I have seen other posts about that with the bosch 3's I think it might be a slightly different battery voltage battery offset but don't know if the correct information is published on the net for the 22#hr.

 

I did some reading on it...seems like there is some coincidence with the Bosch 3's and the longer starts but after that every thread just turns into a huge theoritical argument about who knows more than the other guy. Ill play around on my own some more.

Taking you're advice on the cat; but going with a 40 Series and a cut-out....just for fun

Once all mounted up Ill re-test....

 

the 40 series rock, I have those on my camaro, I wish I would have gone that route with my truck the 50 series is to quiet either that or im loosing my hearing the older I get.

 

ive heard something about longer cold starts but it shouldn't be that long. Ive seen them used personally with little to no effect on cold starts

 

I have duals and 40's on my pickup..It droned so much it was driving me crazy. Added two resonators in front of the mufflers..Has a nice sound to it now and you can have a conversation in the cab.

I too have noticed longer cold starts with the 3's but I also changed to the 89 programing, so I am not sure which is causing it. I crank it for about 2-3 seconds..Crank it again and it fires right up..(around 30* temp).

 

Saw something that didnt look right yesterday and fixed it. Truck started right up this AM. If it does again tomorrow then problem solved and Ill share why....

Routed my CB antenna cable today. After much deliberation, Im going to be picking up a 102" whip this weekend to top it all off. Ill get more pics up later, but just wanted to re-cap my CB install.

Scored a Cobra 29 LTD NW on CL. Picked up a 12v accessory outlet for a few $$ and ran it into my center console:



Secured the mount to the side of the console:



Mic clip:



Notched the consloe for the mic wire:



PA:



External speaker. Still not permanently secured, trying to pick a good location for it. I also ran a feed to the pass side dash speaker to try as well once everything is up and running.



Firestik is HQ'd here in Phoenix. Stopped by the shop yesterday. Nice guy, talked my ear off, but gave some valuable info and saved a few $$ by hanging out and listening to some good stories. I went with the "Fire Ring" wire due to the tight mounting location:

As you see, the wire-to-CB end is open, allowing a smaller hole to be drilled in your truck....if needed. Kit comes with the appropiate grommet to use too.



Came into the truck via a hole from the OE tire mount. Secured the wire to the frame, drooping the wire to allow for condensation to run off and filled the hole with scillicon. Loosely ran the wire along the floor to my console. My carpet mat is still in good shape and will help insulate the wire.



A 90* connector emilinates any clearance issues and allows the CB to be tucked in the
console:



Just used some good quality tape to secure the wire here:







The 102 is gonna be huge, I know. Ill make it work.......

 

Vac leak at the evap canister was causing the loooong starts. Problem solved

 

Only other thing I can think of to help this pig pass emissions is a new CAT. I figured why stop there, gonna replace the muffler adn I also needed to re-route the tip beacuse of the shackle flip.
I think Im gonna throw a cut-out on there just for fun too.
Out with the old:

 

i hope the cat does the trick

 

Looking at the pic with the tape on it.....how are they sized; ID or OD, I was gonna order a 3"

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cto-6907/overview/

 

your pipe is 2 13/16 od the cat is 3 inch inside diameter. you can spread the inlet a little or cut some of the old pipe make a couple wedges to hold the cat in place and fill the gap bye welding.

 

Yea, I wasnt sure how to do that...it's either 2.5" or 3".....

 

i had a issue with my truck because of the odd ball pipe size. You would think when the po did the headers they would have rebuilt the y pipe.

 

Was able to determine the cat was installed in 98'....as rich as this thing had been running and for so long, def toast by now.....

 

Cat and Supper 44 Series on order, probably wont get installed till next wwekend...

Still cant find the EST connector to set timining? I know what it's supposed to look like and approxiamtely where it's supposed to be...??? Might have to start digging under the dash....

 

I think they modified a stock harness into your blazer , the est might be tucked in the loom or the passenger side . It is a single connector like the o2 plug but the wire colors are tan/blk stripe and goes from the icm to the ecm.

 

I just re-did a ton of loom and dont remember seeing it...Ill have to find it at the ecm and try to trace it from there.

 

I just looked at a pic of your engine compartment and it looks like its under the dash. I can't believe someone would do this.

 

Its c7 on the ecm , the should have repaired the harness and made it so the est was under the hood.

 

My guess is when I find it, the connector has been snipped and its just tapped together....

 

I hoping for a corroded scotch lock

 

Suprise...look what I found...

 

Thats the first place I would have looked for the est. lol I thought you might post a picture of m&m that wire in your heating vents

 

EST disconnected...

Balancer mark located and cleaned:



Timing tab located. Initial check of timing appears to be set to 2*...orange mark



If Im reading the tab correctly and do this right, I just need to loosen the dist and rotate it clockwise till the timing mark is at 6*...roughly the green mark...???

Tighted the dist, re-check timing, disconnect -batt terminal, reconnect esc, reconnect -batt terminal?

Which side is easiest to get to the dist, pass or drive?

 

your right on the timing and timing mark, warm up the engine and shut it off then disconnect the est fire it back up set the timing shut it back down and plug the est back together. Its easier to get to the dizzy from the passenger side a distributor wrench really helps. Once the timing is set you can disconnect the battery to get rid of the code 42.

 

Got the timing set...seems like it runs much better. That hard 1-2 shift is gone....

Re-set the IAC. I dont have a tach, so Im guestimating my RPM's... where its set seems to be good until I can get a scanner hooked up.

And after much reading, I am correct in understanding the 90-92' TPS is NOT adjustable?

 

your right the 90-92 tps is non adjustable but if the holes on the tps are elongated it would be the 85-89 style . with the key on the voltage on the tps blue wire needs to be from 0.660VDC to 0.760VDC, do this after you set the min air speed. But the tps may not be adjustable if its the correct one.

 

Speaking of RPM's...I posted this pic awhile back:



...someone said that connector was for a tach? Is there an available oe-aftermarket unit that would just plug into that?

 

Here is a link I found that addresses setting the TPS. I found this last night on ChevyThunder.com

Do it yourself information page

 

That is the tach lead. You just need to pick a aftermarket tach. Most have a selector switch for 4,6 and 8 cylinder. You have a switched power a ground and a illumination that hooks to the headlight switch. The tach wire would run to that pigtail. If you want the part number for a pigtail that would plug into that let me know and I will see if I can provide it for you.