That spot is where my factory air intake was on my 85. It was on the passenger side.

 

Yea, thats what Ive been told. Ive got one on both sides, pulled the plugs, should allow some extra air in the engine......

 

Just need to get an electric fan on there, that will make things a lot easier!

 

They are there to keep water from going directly into your air intake on the original setup. I plumbed my K&N to a spot directly in front of one on the driver side.

 

I'll find out tomorrow but I think a 52mm TB just fell into my lap.

Would there be any benefit of putting this on...he mentioned something about adjusting the TPS to .75v...?

 

The correct tps the 90-92 tpi does not have elongated screw holes and is non adjustable if you install a 85-89 tpi tps you would want to adjust you min idle speed first with the iac in and the set the tps from 0.660VDC to 0.760VDC this would be measured with the throttle blades closed engine off on the blue feedback wire to the ecm and ground.

 

Yea, not sure it its 85-89 or 90-92 yet.

 

Went to change the fuel filter today and realized they had a 82'-84' Vette filter...instead of the Z28 filter I bought ....

Fuel pressure regulator diaphram showed up:





Ill be getting that on tomorrow and work towards getting the plenum back on.

 

Now to the TB.....

Guy at work literaly gave me a Summit billet 52mm TB. Ill have to use my lower housing and IAC, as well as switch the linkage.

1) Is switching the linkage jus as easy as that?
2) The IAC is just about the only sensor that wasnt going to get replaced, should I?
3) I have a new TPS, looks like that will mount right up...any adjustments?
4) Coolant bypass...???

 

You will need a throttle cable for 85-88 tpi . I think this is a professional products throttle you should contact them to see if the have the 89-92 lever. You should clean your iac pintle tip and adjust the minimum air / idle speed. You need to look at the back of the throttle body and see if both bores are connected bye the iac passage other wise you need to notch this section so the iac can get manifold vacuum. Let me know if you need a picture of this.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=59535_0_0_

 

So I cant just swap the levers that hold the cables?

Both bore are accessable to the IAC.

 

professional products 69705 shows for 85-92 it should have originally came with a install kit with two throttle arm levers. If you buddy dosn't have it You should email or call professional products.

 

Friend doesnt have it, I just cant take the linkage off the 48mm and put it on the 52mm, at work right now and cant see how they mount any differently? If not forget it Im not gonna waste my time with it.

 

The stock one is peened over the d shape on the shaft maybe different and the spring may not work with a oem lever. If you don't want it i'll work a trade lol.

 

If you do convert the saginaw gm hard fuel line to a/n you can use Fragola 491970 and 491971 or earls 9894DBJERL and EAR-9894DBHERL

 

Not really tracking... The lines that were there were cut at one and and shoved into the rubber lines, held on with band clamps. These lines are threaded at both ends??
Do the rubber lines need fittings in them?


At the rail they bolted like they are supposed to.

 

sorry, I thought you posted asking jason for the hardline. The Stock ones are saginaw o-ring on both sides so you would need to convert to an -6 and build new flex lines.

 

This is what I was asking about, hopefully we're on the same page, just sent PayPal.



Want to run new rubber lines off those to the hard lines in the fram rail. Trying to find the right female-male hose barb adapter for the ends of the lines....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1512

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcv0620

 

If the lines on the frame rail are metal You should flare them at 37 and instal a 3/8 and 5/16 a/n tube nuts. Then Built a a/n flex line to connect the two.

 

or were you talking about converting the saginaw o-ring fitting to a barb ? with
Fragola 491970 and 491971, 484106 and 496106 .

 

Looking for the fitting to adapt these to -an flex and flare the rail lines like you said.

 

Fragola 491970 and 491971 or earls 9894DBJERL and EAR-9894DBHERL and build a flex line to go over to the frame rail with female ends on the flex line.

here is a picture I found on the net the top blue fitting is a earls converting the saginaw o-ring to an -6. If you get tube nuts don't forget to order the sleeves.

 

Realized yesterday that I had my runners on backwards, wasnt very happy about that!

Got them back on today, along with dizzy cap - rotor - coil - wires - plugs (#6 was a beeyotch!) - MAP - new EGR vac lines - new PCV lines - IAT and plemun:





Working on this thing is like peeling an onion. Every where I turn theres something.....

.......any good ideas to make this better?

 

Were does That wire go to off the junction block ? With the melted junction block terminal there was a excessive draw on this circuit or bad connection causing too much resistance or a short on this wire.

 

Havent traced it back that far yet. I knew it needed to be replaced, just been putting it off. Im gonna add a multi slot box so I can run some extra lighting off of it later.

In the meantime:

 

 

Had a few hours this morning....took the ECM out to pull the memcal:





...and cut the ears off the IAC housing:



...Ill be sealing the ends up, probably tomorrow.

 

expansion plugs or pipe plugs give a decent look or you can cut it down further.


you wern't kidding they barried that ecm

 

Bam...










Now my cheesy fix for the upper rad hose. Scroll up and remember what I had on there...

Using an OE 92' Camaro upper, cut slightly, with coupler, just need to add a section of straight hose, with my U-bolt hose keeper. Also using a water neck from 96'-98' Chevy 1/2T:






Also got my new junction box ordered...actually got two, hope to try something out...

 

Only gonna need 12" of hose....rather than buy a hole hose and cut it down...Im thinking this stuff should hold up... http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...&keyword=28445

 

looking good

 

Old upper v New upper:



Also installed bypass hose: Dayco 87658

Had a few minutes to spare:

 

Todays project was going to be: replace the crappy fuel lines the PO used. The hand bent lines were what was used to go from the rubber lines to the fuel rail. Add to it, those rubber lines were toast. I couldnt come up with a set of OE hard lines to run under the alt to the rubber (which I was going to replace with new rubber) so I decided to do SS all the way to the lines in the frame rail.....with the expectation of someday going as far back as possible to the tank.

PO's handy work:



So I ordered this up:



Not having much experience in this area apparently I ordered SS P.T.F.E lines and the fittlings I odered wont work with them? Im having a hell of a time getting them to lock the hose down..... do I need to re-order SS rubber lines?

 

My Trick-Flow knock off came in today as well. As if my day wasnt already going to crap I mounted it up and it doesnt look like its going to work. I tried mounting it both ways and there just isnt enough clearance either way:









And to top it off, the upper rad hose it pieced up is going to need to be re-done....the air filter wont fit with it routed that way.

 

Fragola catalog page 28 lists the fittings to go with this hose.

 

EDIT: located the right PFTE fittings....

 

just curious on the trick-flow elbow what is in the way running it towards the passenger side and extending odd it with a 3" cai kit.

 

Hits the alt bracket...before the TB can get squared up to mount.

 

now I see it that sucks over a inch off.

 

I could cut it back, but I'm not sure there would be enough left for a boot to hold on too.

 

Got the new fittings in this AM. Was a PITA getting them hooked up to the fuel rail, but once I did I realized I couldnt route them the same way as OE. As you can see its pretty tight in there:

Being as the lines are SS I said why hide them? So I routed them like this:

Just have zip-ties on them until I can find something classy'ier. Best part about it is that I have enough line to go all the way back to the fuel filter - minimizing the connections inbetween. Starting to look like a motor again:




52mm TB on the way, new junction box due any day, bolt in T'stat, upper-lower hoses, ECM programmed, hook the battery up and start this pig!

 

Your fuel lines are taking the scienic route

 

 

The only thing I can think that you can improve on the air filter is do some bends like this but towards the passenger side ending up by the rad support inlet and a open element the serp tensioner is in the way a but maybe with a tight 90 silicone elbow yo might be able to do it. I have a rubber lt1 bellows your welcome to have I can send to you and make measurement off of it if you want.

 

Yea, I dont mind making my own cai, its just clearing that first 120* or so bend. If I can get it behind the alt, Ill be golden.

Ultimately I think the best plan id to go to dual electric fans and just run it in front of the alt...that shroud is killing me.

 

I do have some new electric fans I would let go for fairly cheap left over from a buick 350 I put in a chevy luv. I will have to see what the overall size they are and cfm if you are interested.

 

Yeah, electric fan is the way too go.

 

If I go dual elect, I going all in and getting a Griffin combo: new rad w/dual fans....

Better start saving some cheddar'....

 

You can go cheap.

Like I said before,

My 1969 c10 with a warmed over 350, I ran an ebay replacement all aluminum radiaor, $200

A 16" fan from abad71camaro on ebay $40

Thermostat Switch on at 200 off at 185 from abad71camaro on ebay $40

Kept it cool.

Swapping the same setup to my 1971 camaro.

If your current radiator is good, you can just ad the fan and switch. I am sure it will keep up.


In Fact, on my 55 belair, which has an 11:1 427 BBC I ran a Stock 1955 V8 Radiator with the same fan and a on at 180 off at 160 switch and it kept it cool! Even with 4.71 rear gears. I run a CSR electric water pump on it.

 

drool , drool