Have a 1986 iroc-z and tired of it breaking down. Just got it out of Chevy dealer to fine tune to pass smog and it failed. Took it back and it passed but one day later fuel is coming out of exhaust. Took apart fuel rail and replaced rubber seals on injectors. Put fuel rail back on and tapped the fuel rail to push the tubes between fuel rail to push into the rubber seals and put injectors into holes. Went to start car and now fuel is pushing out of fuel regulator vacuum tube into the throttle body . Fuel is coming out of the tune port front side. Starter engages but won't turn engine .

 

It sounds like it's maybe flooded with fuel due to the pressure regulator diaphragm leaking fuel into the manifold vacuum. I would inspect the inside of the regulator and replace the bad part to get it sealed, then put in some dry (unfouled) spark plugs and try again.

 

Be carefull , you may have the cylinders full of fuel (hydrolock )from the leaking reg .Pull the plugs out and see if it will spin over

 

+1

and if all this fuel is coming out I'd keep some fire extinguishers handy.

 

Thank you for the reply. I'll do that tomarrow and let you know how it worked out. Vrooooooom!

 

Waiting for son to come home to take passenger side plugs out . It's his car that I been working on for five years. Tired of the drive for two days wait for four months to fix then drive for seven days down for two months and drive for one day etc etc.

 

Keep in mine this is a 27 year old car.

Things are going to fail.

Not sure what you have done at this point, but there are lots that can/should be done to make this car reliable for daily driving.

The injectors could very well need replaced.

Get a good repair manual, read up here, and enjoy!

That said, if you are not looking for a project, perhaps a newer car is in order.

 

Thanks for the reply. Had the top end supposition rebuilt. 24 hundred. Mechanic no longer available to reach. Just had the fuel injection rubber put on caps and replaced one injector cap. Injectors fine but we did not know about fuel diagram. Garage smells like gas. Pulled dip stick and don't see evidence of oil only gas.

 

Had the top end redone because coolant was leak inking from intake manifold. The mechanic only sealed it and supposly put new injectors in. Three years ago. Car never ran more than three weeks in those five years. Took off rear end put new bushings , shocks rotors brake pads and the thing pads are pushed by. Almost new gas tank. Painted parts and put back together. Did the same to the front end. Only thing is we did not take out motor and start from scratch. Waiting for son to show interest and remove those plugs.

 

Rracerr. Some of your posts aren't quite making sense. Like you are translating into English using software.
Mechanic can no longer reach what?
What's a top end supposition?

 

sorry about that! appreciate reply> bought 1986 iroc-z for son on his fifteenth birthday. Had to tow it home after overheating. put new radiator,waterpump,and thermostat. noticed leak of coolant behind engine after putting in a used transmission. took to a shop and the owner out of town and his employee told me that the leak was coming from the back of the intake manifold. he said he can fix it. After one and a half months i got the car back. ran good for three weeks then engine kept shutting off in middle of traffic. took it back and the mechanic was fired and the boss was back in town but cant find receipts for map sensor, fuel injectors, belts ,hoses.sparkplugs,distributor,rotor and rebuild on heads. No warranty period. hope this explais it. my son and i decided we are going to rebuild the engine and start from scratch. Doing research and know that we are going to have to rebuild fuel regulator later. dont know if we are going to keep same engine block (305) or put a (350) in it. we still have to get the spark plugs out (lazy kid) and see if the engine cranks over. son says to get a new battery but i got a huge battery charger. Gas is in the oil, should i crank it once the plugs are out? or drain the oil also then see if engines rotates only. dont plan on it running . disconnect the fuel line to the fuel runner.

 

Don't run the engine with fuel in the oil. It will cause damage.

Regulator leak will cause engine to run rich and rough, but normally will not get fuel into the oil. Leaking fuel injectors will cause fuel to go into the oil and can cause damage to the engine.

It is possible to test injectors for leaks by pulling up the fuel rail from the base and energizing the fuel pump. Keep fire extinguishers handy.

The fuel injectors get a constant 12 volts. The ECM triggers the injectors to fire by grounding the injector circuit. If the wire shorts to ground then it can hold the injectors open and cause flooding.
Old injectors can also leak. Contaminants in the fuel can also cause injectors to leak.

Your 86 will have a 9th (cold-start) injector that may also be malfunctioning or leaking. Don't forget to check that.
I recommend getting this sorted out before starting an engine swap.
If something goes wrong then it's best to happen to the old 305.

 

Thanks for the reply! Ok we noticed fuel in exhaust when it was running. Took off fuel rail and took injectors to napa. They told my son he had to just buy some new o rings for the tip of the injectors. We installed them and turned the ignition key. Noticed two fuel leaks from the fuel line between the fuel rails . Pulled it and reinstalled. Put engine back together and tried to crank it. After turning ignition on five times, starter engages but refuses to turn the engine, it finally rotated one turn then the housing on the starter busted. Pulled it off and went and got a new starter. Same thing, but now I noticed fuel coming blackout the the front of the throttle body . Pulled throttle body off and tilted it to remove rubber hose underneath and fuel poured out. Garage smelled like gas strong for three days. Hot water heater nearby so I kept doors opened and prayed at night. So we checked oil. Dip stick shows gas in oil, mostly all gas and no oil, seriously. Now I been told to remove spark plugs to see if it will turn over, haven't done that yet. Should I turn it over;not start, while the same oil is in car to see if it will turn. I'll get to your suggestion about ninth injector and electrical wires soon . Thank you.

 

Drain the oil and put new oil before touching anything else!


Broken nose cone on starter is usually caused from a backfire. Has the distributor been out of the car recently?

 

Ok, I took out remaing plugs. The number six plug remove had a small drainage of gas, but the number eight plug removed and gas poured out like a faucet. Soaked my beni hat. Thinking about turning flywheel to push remaing gas out if any. Is this wise.

 

Yes the distrib has been out of car. Took it to Chevy dealer to check if I put it on right. They said it was good and they tuned it, but took it to smog shop and they kicked me outta there. To much gas was being burned out exhaust. Took it back to Chevy dealer and they had it for three days. Told me it was good and it went to smog shop. Passed smog and the next day son brought it home complaining of gas out exhaust. I went to start it up and the nose cone busted. Got a new starter and started up and car ran rich and smelled gas all over. That's when we figuredfuel injector.

 

That's very bad. There's a high probability that your engine has already been damaged from hydrolock.
O-rings seal the fuel and vacuum around the injector ends, but really have nothing to do with fuel injectors that leak fuel into the engine.
First you must determine exactly how the fuel got in there so you can stop it. Then you must drain everything out of the engine and replace oil & filter to avoid more damage. With all the spark plugs out you can then run compression tests on each cylinder to look for major damage.
If compression is acceptable, then you can try starting the engine again and might be ok.

Don't turn the engine over unless all spark-plugs are out.
Running the engine with fuel in the oil can cause a lot of damage to bearings and valvetrain relatively quickly.

 

Thank you for the reply�� I mentioned earlier that I found fuel pouring out of fuel diagram thru vacuum that fed into throttle body. I believe that it flow into air intake tubes into the engine. Going to take your advice thank you. Going to drain oil. Could I bump the starter to see if flywheel turns with oil drain? Not a lot just to see if the engine will turn for a compression test. Really hate to spend money if its going back down the drain? Your advice is appreciated.

 

drained oil and one quart oil and seven gas. what a mess/

 

#8 is the closest cylinder to the regulator vac port which would account for all the gas pouring out of there

With the plugs out you should turn it over by hand to confirm no physical damage before spinning it on the starter

 

Ok we will check it out. If it spins, can I do a compression check with the oil out of it?

 

By the way ! Thank you for your comments and time.

 

Ok checked trying to turn by hand and its a no go. Starting to tear down. Going back to work so I'll update on the tear down . Thank you.

 

Just to try to avoid any confusion here, the diaphragm is inside the fuel pressure regulator at the rear of your fuel rails, and has a vacuum line that connects to the rear passenger-side of the intake Plenum.

The vacuum line that you mention going into the throttle body is likely from your CCP Charcoal Canister Purge system, and fuel would be coming up from the tank.
Please verify which is the source of your flooding before preceding.

 

Thank you for your reply. It is the fuel regulator vacuum line that goes to the plentium.

 

Got the engine out and found that the gas washed the cylinder walls. Thinking of taking it to a machine shop and see if any more damage has been done to the block. We have no experience in motor building and there is a book out called how to build a small block chevy. I wonder if this will teach me how to put the crank shaft cam piston rings and so on. I'm sure it goes over everything, but can an average joe do it? We are going to bump the horsey in it . We found this site to help with the part order popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/chevrolet/0667_phrs_305_chevy_engine_blocks/index.html