My TPI 305 will not start after it's been sitting a few days with a quick shot of starting fluid. It will just keep cranking. If I start it everyday it's fine.

Also it won't turn over after it get's to operating temperature. If it's heated up and I shut it off it will just act like it had a dead battery. I let it cool down and then it starts.

The ignition module is new. The timing is set to stock.

I'm not sure if I have 1 problem or more. The starter will be changed soon to see if it is the cause of the hot start problems.

Any suggestions?

 

Headers or exhaust too close to the starter will cause hot start woes. You can buy a heat shield to help or the starter maybe at fault. Is your car a 85-88 ? If so sounds like the cold start injector or timer switch has give up the ghost. Or the fuel pump is just bleeding back all fuel pressure . Any difference if you prime the fuel system several times before you crank it ?

 

I'm replacing the starter with an LT1 unit this weekend and installing a heat shield. Hopefully that will cure the hot start problem.

Any way it could be the coolant temp sensor giving a false signal and then ECM adding too much ignition advance?

I'll try priming it a few times the next time it won't start.

 

a false reading from the cts will effect cold start enrichment and timing. If you look at a scanner or check the resistance on the cts would be the only way to tell if this was the issue.

 

CTS, Coil, cap rotor & starter have all been replaced. I've resolved the cold & hot start issues but the car is still acting up. My buddy and I have come to the conclusion that the engine is missing on 1 cylinder. It shakes too much at idle, hunts for idle and dies has weak performance and the car just doesn't sound right at WOT. All these used to only occur when the car was warm. Now it won't idle at all and keeps dying. IAC seems ok. There is also loud popping on decel when the engine is cold. I'm thinking I have 1 injector that's acting up.

 

Pull the spark plug
Wet plug ; no spark
Dry plug ; no fuel

Ohm test all the injectors to see what their resistance values are

http://www.ohmcheck.com/content.php?...fuel-injectors

http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rc...53077864,d.aGc

http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rc...53077864,d.aGc

 

Didn't get to do this but I did do some more troubleshooting today and made some more observations. When I last left the car when it would start the car cold and die right away as if it had a missive vacuum leak. Holding the gas would keep the car running so I adjusted the idle screw and the car now stays running. I pull each fuel injector connector one by one and all but #2 change the idle. An IR temp gun on each each header tube also shows #2 as the coldest cylinder by a lot but still hot to the touch.

Let the car warm up and go for a drive. Everything seems good until the car get's warm (closed loop) and then the stalling begins temp guage is at about half. What seems to be the issue is coming back down to idle. It will die when coming to a stop or the idle will jump around a but till it dipped too low and then it dies.

For the fun of it I swapped in another MAP sensor. Now the stalling problem seems to be gone. drive the car around a lot now. Temp climbs over half and I'm getting an occasional stall. The car is running incredibly rich now. It's smoking, the excess fuel is obvious by the smell. Now the popping in the exhaust happening at part throttle and the engine has little power at lower RPM. There is also some slight bucking.