I have Msd wires, slp ported runners, wide throttle body (friend gave me it), headers, full dual exhaust, 160 degree thermostat, rerouted coolant lines, new injectors, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, cold air intake, upgraded throttle cables, full synthetic oil. Removed ac, and heat, with the core and air boxes, removed the air pump and the injectors for it. cut out maf sensor sceen, removed rear seats, will NOT remove the EGR. What else can I do for full all over performance of the car?

 

Lots, how deep are your pockets.

 

yeah, you ain't kidding. compared to some of today's platforms you damn near need to change everything to support any kind of power...

 

I'd start with a full suspension overhaul. SFCs, LCAs, LCA relocation brackets, torque arm and new mount, panhard bar, springs, shocks, bushing, etc. This is all stuff that should be upgraded if you want full "overall" performance.

 

Once the suspension is done, swap over to some 3.73 gears.

And then...you have to decide, keep the 305 or...not. How much "power" do you want? You can build a 305 to have 300hp, or swap to a 350 and make 300hp, for less than upgrading the 305. You can probably pull 400hp out of the 350 for what it will cost to push the 305 to 300hp.

 

Heads (World, etc.), camshaft and exhaust upgrades will get you to 300hp quite easily.
You will hear the standard "swap in a 350", and a lot of other useless reply's.
Quite frankly if I was going to swap engines why would I stop with a small 350 or 383? When 454's are readily available?
Below is one example of a 305 upgrade:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...d/viewall.html

 

If I was going to do it all over, I would go with a World Motown 400 block, and build a 400 small block. Similar power to the 454 but fits better in the engine bay.

Just remember once you go over 350-400 ft-lb of torque your 10-bolt rear is living on borrowed time.


My specific build now, 350 block, .040 to clean up the cylinders, World Sportsman II heads, Lunati 60121 Roller cam, Edelbrock performer intake, CC Qjet, Comp Pro-magnum roller rockers. I dynoed a month ago @ 261 Rear Wheel Hp. Figure 15% drive train loss for my automatic and I'm sitting right around 310-315hp or so at the flywheel. Dynoed 261hp and 281tq at the rear wheels.

 

I have money to blow here and there. I'm looking for all suggestions except the engine swap, I'm keeping the 305 but I cannot afford to do a boost. I'd love to hear more on heads and what you guys think will make good hp without spending a s*** ton if money.

 

And thank you for all the replies so far, very appreciated.

 

Base upgrade, 1.6 rockers if you have l98 cam, or swap lt1 cam if you have peanut cam, plus ecm tune will give some power

 

Who should I go through for ECM tunning and how should I burn my own chip to match the upgrades I've already done?

 

ECM......

Tuned Performance......won't go wrong!

 

The maf screen removal does effect the maf signal, you never noted if you are using a heated o2 ? The 1227165 ecm can be picky to connect to and you may need to get a few to try. Once you make upgrades and can data log I can assist with the tuning

 

Thanks again. Alright, sounds good. Can anyone suggest heads? I still have the originals and I'd love to upgrade.

 

Vortecs with 1.94 intake valves and a scoggin dickey tpi intake would be a nice improvement. I really wouldn't waste a bunch of money on a lb9 but those parts could be used on a 350 if desired at a later time.

 

Here are some heads to consider:
http://www.trickflow.com/partdetail....7&autoview=sku

A good 305 article:
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/..._camshaft.html

Once you are done with that you can go smoke some 350's!

 

Right on. I want to upgrade in the future to a 350 but I just don't have the cash to do it now, so parts that can be used in conjunction with both are also very helpful. Would a better torque converter help? I've looked into it, but never decided if it would really benefit. The other is a different rear axle gear ratio. Any suggestions? Thanks to you guys all.

 

I agree with Orr. I notice a difference when I went to the 1.6rr's along with MSD ignition box. I have the L98 cam, if you car is an 89 with the 700r4 the stock cam is the peanut cam. It will probably be a good idea to swap it out, It will be hard to suck power out of that cam.