Hello everyone.
I have a 1987 Iroc 305 TPI auto trans.
Last weekend took a drive not hot outside car not running hot.
Everytime I would come to a stop the car would die, it would start right back up no funny starting or anything . it did this to me once last summer.
I did put my fuel pressure tester on it and it was fine of course it didn't act up on me then. But I think I can eliminate the pump seeing as how it started right up after dying. I'm not sure where to go to next or probably more important I wouldn't know how to test IAC TPS or the ignition module in distributor. Inside distributor looks clean I am changing cap and rotor while I'm there. It hasn't acted like that since last weekend I only drove it twice since and not really far either. Any help or a point in the direction of concern will be appreciated.Oh and I put new injectors in it last year.
I could also keep it running by holding the pedal while stopped.

 

Begin with the basics. Clean the TB bores and plates, then check the minimum air position (only AFTER cleaning the TB). Adjust as necessary, then verify the IAC is clean and functioning.

 

Thanks I'm going to try to get at that today. No codes showed up after that day either. I'll post results when I tackle this.

 

Check tps with a volt meter or with a scan tool plugged into your computer running winaldl or tunerpro. to do it with a volt meter just make jumper wires that go from the tps to the pigtail and check volts, adjust till you get .56 volts at closed throttle and over 4 volts wide open. when you adjust the idle air control you are really adjusting minimum air speed. thirdgen has a good write-up here for the both of them (https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2). Im pretty sure you can bring your ignition module to get tested at part stores like o'reillys but I've never had it done.

Have you checked fuel pressure while driving the vehicle?

 

Ok so here goes.
tylersteez I did run with fuel pressure guage car didn't act up so key on 38 psi ,running 39 psi, regulator unhooked from vacume 47 psi.
I went ahead and reset everything I grounded the diagnostic terminal for 30 seconds.
unplugged IAC turned off car ungrounded terminal unplugged est checked base timing it was good. set minimum air screw so it idled at 550 to 600 rpm. ( my underhood sticker said 450rpm it wouldn't even stay running) I set that while in drive , what it said to do. shut off car plugged est back in IAC back in set tps. Started car it did it's warm up idle 1100 rpm came down to 850-900 rpm in park put it in gear it's at 750 rpm I like that. it was before all this at 550 rpm in gear. So now totally off topic is it supposed to do its warm up rpm even if it's not cooled off. I always thought that was weird. So now just so you know I only have the dash tach to go by I know it's most likely not accurate, but though it still has not died on me the idle rpm has been different two days in a row not much maybe 50 to 100 rpm lower than when I set it on sunday.So for now I'm just going to see what happens over the next few days. I don't have a scanner do drive around with to see anything.Thank you to everyone who has listened to me and helped. I really like this site very helpful.

 

Don't quote me on this and hopefully a more knowledgeable member will correct what I'm saying but from what I understand the ecu starts in open loop and ignores any input from the o2 sensor and create a air/fuel ratio based on the maf and coolant temp sensor until it verifies that the o2 is hot enough to accurately give data to the ecu. This is why the car has the warm up idle after being started even after being warmed up.