The gasket on my oil pan is seeping.

3 quick questions:

Will the K-member need to come out in order to replace the gasket?

My engine is mostly stock. Is it worthwhile to upgrade the oil pan?

Are there any reccomended upgrades or maintenance to perform while the oil pan is out?

 

I think most people typically unbolt the motor mounts and lift the motor a few inches (go ahead and remove your distributor cap before lifting engine). K-member removal makes it easier, but more work overall.


I wouldn't upgrade the oil pan on a mostly stock application.


I would change the oil pump while you're in there. No need to go high volume or anything, just get an OEM spec pump.

 

^^^^^^^^Yup!

 

Take the spark plugs out, too, so you can easily turn the crank by hand. If you get all the counterweights positioned just right, the pan practically falls off!

 

depending on miles, if i had my oil pan off, i might consider inspecting all the bearings. but thats just me.
if changing the oil pump, get one with the pick-up tack welded on. it's good insurance.

 

Guys, this is awesome info. Thanks.

******* Joe, what is a pick up tack? Is that on the stock oil pump or do I need a special pump?

Since the motor mounts need to come off, I'll replace them. Should I go poly or steel? I know steel makes the car shake. Is there any performance advantage?

Also, since the spark plugs and the distributor cap need to come out, now sounds like the time to work my ignition system. Does anything else need to be replaced besides distributor cap, spark plugs, and wires? Will I benefit from upgraded parts on a stock motor, or should I go with stock replacements?

 

You can tack weld the pickup to the pump or use one of these.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/pio-839061
There are also pickups that bolt to the pump.

 

Tuned performance, thanks for the link! Do you also have a link for an oil pump that has the pickup already welded on?

I looked at the underside of my motor with my mechanic today and I can't see how the engine can be lifted without an engine crane. Will a crane need to be used or can the engine be jacked up from underneath?

 

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/ses-3-60-08-003
The description says some applications the pu is tack welded.

 

maybe not the best advice, but you can use a floor jack and some wood under the harmonic balancer to lift the motor up a few inches. then put some wooden blocks in between the clamshell and motor mounts so it cant fall down.

on the motor mount swap,...have you ever changed them before? they're usually through-bolted. can be a bear sometimes reaching the nuts inside the k-member/crossmember. i suggest tying a small rope to your wrench in case you drop it in there. then you can retrieve it.

thought i saw you start another thread about changing the rear main seal? at this point it would make more sense to me to just pull the engine out. flip it over an go through the bottom end properly. sure would make more room for changing motor mounts IMO. (and i would not use solid mounts).

i'm sure this isnt the answers your looking for, lol. if it's a small leak, i've had good luck with a product called bearing seal. you could try it out first and save for future repairs and upgrades?
http://www.gunk.ca/CAT_M1616C.asp

 

 

Quick question...why would the distributor cap need to be removed to lift the motor?

 

So it doesn't get smashed against the firewall.