Also, locktite or no locktite?
I just picked up from summit - ARP 434-2001

 

Liquid Teflon works well, I’d use the washers. If your using this on a tpi unit there might no be enough room between the manifold to runner.

 

Any idea why 4 of the washers are thinner, and the bolts they came with are about 1 mm or 2 longer?

 

You might want to install one without the washer and check runner tube clearance. Washers give better clamping power but arnt really needed on the intake.

 

I did - with the washer, there wasnt enough room. So ill have to go without the washer.
Sucks that the front drivers bolt, number 10 i believe, cant find much to grip. I assume because coolant finds its way down there and over time rust can form, messing up the threads.

 

Flanged bolts typically do not require washers unless the bolt and corresponding mating surface are of different metals (like you have) OR the flanged portion of the bolt does not have enough contact with the mating surface, like you have. So use the washers. The bolts that are longer can go in the two middle holes on either side since there is just an empty space behind those threads on the cylinder head.

 

I went with no washers. The surface is about the same as the factory bolts.
I dont know what the differences in metal have to do with it. The factory bolts are different than the aluminum intake as well.

 

Bolts that are too long can bind the pushrod in some locations.

 

Sorry I'm late to this one, but in case anyone else finds this thread with the same question.

I used similar bolts on my intake.

What I did was: I installed the runners before tightening the bolts on the fuel rail. With the fuel rail raised a bit it did give enough room to install the runners, whereas with it bolted down the runners would not clear the rail and intake bolts.