305 mods=what cam
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From: Macomb Mi USA
305 mods=what cam
I have an 86 305 tpi with the basic stuff done. I am puting a set of mildly ported vette heads on it and a 3.73 Posi rear end. what cam would work best?
maf screens removed, tpis air foil, ported plenum, shift kit, no air pump or cat, AFPR, no ac, ram air, moved air temp sensor,
maf screens removed, tpis air foil, ported plenum, shift kit, no air pump or cat, AFPR, no ac, ram air, moved air temp sensor,
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 68
From: NC
Car: 1987 Iroc
Engine: 357 Single plane and a Ysi vortech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9"
Not sure of the part number, but it is a compucar cam with 440''/454'' in the Jegs book. Worked great in my car!
Chris
Chris
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From: New York
Read below...great street cam for a 305 TPI...what a difference the cam made but because of the higher than stock lift after about 1K miles I broke a rocker arm stud and bent another. That gave me the excuse to do the heads and I will tell you the cam/heads combo made much more of a HP/Torque difference than the cam change alone. I recommend cam, heads and headers for unbelieveable 305 performance.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 900
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From: Haslett, MI
Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: Minirammed 385, 396 RWHP
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moser 12-bolt
If your 1986 block has the cast bosses in the lifter valley for the "spider" retainer, you might want to consider getting some OEM roller lifters and convert to a roller cam. Otherwise, how about sonsidering a hydraulic roller retrofit cam? Check your 'Vette heads and see what kind of lift you can crank out of those valves before binding on the valve stem seals. If you can arrange for .476" to .500" of lift, consider buying a Comp Cams Xtreme Energy grind, along with their recommended valve springs. I used their XE262H cam for my motor, but a better cam profile for your TPI would be something with a 112 degree lobe separation angle.
Cheers,
Dan
Cheers,
Dan
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From: Oaks,Pa
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 350 HSR
Transmission: modified 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Dan you mean like I did w/my 86 305?Retro-fitted with a 210-215 499/499 Comp Cams roller cam with ported stock heads.Looking for 13's with this when it warms up and tracks open.
BD3
BD3
Last edited by IROCZ4BD3; Jan 13, 2002 at 09:22 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 212
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From: Ormond Beach, Florida
Car: '88 Firebird Formula
Engine: 360hp/417ft. lb. 350
Transmission: Pro-Built Street/Strip 700R4
I'm looking to do a semi buildup on my LB9 this summer... '88 so it's a hydraulic roller... which i've found that the xTreme energy grind cam kit for is $699 
The heads I'm looking at are the World Products S/R 305 Torquers... my question is, does anybody know if they springs/lifters/etc. on those heads can take the cam without buying CompCam's lifters, etc.? It'd be a lot easier on the wallet but I'm betting it needs the stuff they suggest...
The heads I'm looking at are the World Products S/R 305 Torquers... my question is, does anybody know if they springs/lifters/etc. on those heads can take the cam without buying CompCam's lifters, etc.? It'd be a lot easier on the wallet but I'm betting it needs the stuff they suggest... Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 900
Likes: 1
From: Haslett, MI
Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: Minirammed 385, 396 RWHP
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moser 12-bolt
Yes, Bill, I was going to suggest a cam just like yours, but I didnt know the exact specs. A 210/215 duration roller cam with about .5" lift sounds just right for a modded TPI305. Note I say modded! That cam wouldnt work as well in an engine with completely stock heads, induction, and stock torque converter: It'd lose a lot of bottom-end torque.
WS6Formula305, Since you already have a roller cam, your kit pice will be much cheaper than $699. You should be able to buy one of Comp Cam's camshafts for about $260 to $300, and then add their springs for another $60 or so. The only other issue is the rocker arms. There's some inexpensive claimer-style roller rocker arms in Summit's catalog about $160. You can re-use your present roller lifters.
I highly recommend that you buy the Comp Cam's recommended springs for whatever cam you buy. Same advice for the other cam manufacturers. THEY know which spring works best with their cams so rely on their experience.
Unfortunately there is no clear-cut cheap way to stellar valvetrain performance. You really have two ways to go: The cheap route for modest performance gains (which works quite well for many folks!) or the expensive route for stellar gains.
In the case of the valvetrain, you really need to determine where you are engineering your performance: Torque, midrange, or high-end performance. Once you decide, you can plan on the equipment requirements. For instance, if your 305 is going to stay below 5000 RPM at all times, then an AFR hydrarev kit is pointless, as is probably a n aftermarket ignition box (nitrous apps excluded).
Midrange performance is probably the easiest valvetrain upgrade for most of us. This is the 6000 RPM and under crowd. Luckily this covers nearly all TPI applications involving the long runner design. To get good 6K performance will require only that you pick a good cam, add good valvesprings, and make sure the valves can handle the added lift. You can probably get away with press-in rocker studs, and stamped steel rocker arms.
Personally, I used my pressed in studs and a set of used Comp Magnum roller-tipped rocker arms. After 30 or 40 passes down the strip, and two driving seasons, the 136,000 mile engine shows no sign of wear, oil consumption, or signs of slowing down. It revs easily to 6000 RPM, which is where I shift, by the way. Now, this probably wont apply to you as I'm still using a computer controlled Quadrajet on an Edelbrock Performer manifold... Still, the concept will be the same.
Oh, and by the way: On the issue of those heads: I'd give he folks at World Products a call and as THEM what kinds of valve lift they will handle. I dont know, and am certainly not an expert on WP products.
Cheers,
--Dan
WS6Formula305, Since you already have a roller cam, your kit pice will be much cheaper than $699. You should be able to buy one of Comp Cam's camshafts for about $260 to $300, and then add their springs for another $60 or so. The only other issue is the rocker arms. There's some inexpensive claimer-style roller rocker arms in Summit's catalog about $160. You can re-use your present roller lifters.
I highly recommend that you buy the Comp Cam's recommended springs for whatever cam you buy. Same advice for the other cam manufacturers. THEY know which spring works best with their cams so rely on their experience.
Unfortunately there is no clear-cut cheap way to stellar valvetrain performance. You really have two ways to go: The cheap route for modest performance gains (which works quite well for many folks!) or the expensive route for stellar gains.
In the case of the valvetrain, you really need to determine where you are engineering your performance: Torque, midrange, or high-end performance. Once you decide, you can plan on the equipment requirements. For instance, if your 305 is going to stay below 5000 RPM at all times, then an AFR hydrarev kit is pointless, as is probably a n aftermarket ignition box (nitrous apps excluded).
Midrange performance is probably the easiest valvetrain upgrade for most of us. This is the 6000 RPM and under crowd. Luckily this covers nearly all TPI applications involving the long runner design. To get good 6K performance will require only that you pick a good cam, add good valvesprings, and make sure the valves can handle the added lift. You can probably get away with press-in rocker studs, and stamped steel rocker arms.
Personally, I used my pressed in studs and a set of used Comp Magnum roller-tipped rocker arms. After 30 or 40 passes down the strip, and two driving seasons, the 136,000 mile engine shows no sign of wear, oil consumption, or signs of slowing down. It revs easily to 6000 RPM, which is where I shift, by the way. Now, this probably wont apply to you as I'm still using a computer controlled Quadrajet on an Edelbrock Performer manifold... Still, the concept will be the same.
Oh, and by the way: On the issue of those heads: I'd give he folks at World Products a call and as THEM what kinds of valve lift they will handle. I dont know, and am certainly not an expert on WP products.
Cheers,
--Dan
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From: New York
I was told by Comp. Products where I bought my torquers that the handle .500" lift. Wouldn't the cam you guys are planning take you out of the torque range for the TPI. I am running the cam below in sig. and I notice that the car remains pulling at 6000+rpms and the only thing holding back more rpms is the 700R4 that shifts at 6000rpm when it is floored in D. I also don't get into the power band of my 305 till about 2500rpms isn't adding more duration and lift going to move that up another 500-1000 rpms? Wouldn't that defeat the low rpm power of a TPI?
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 212
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From: Ormond Beach, Florida
Car: '88 Firebird Formula
Engine: 360hp/417ft. lb. 350
Transmission: Pro-Built Street/Strip 700R4
Originally posted by ws6transam
Yes, Bill, I was going to suggest a cam just like yours, but I didnt know the exact specs. A 210/215 duration roller cam with about .5" lift sounds just right for a modded TPI305. Note I say modded! That cam wouldnt work as well in an engine with completely stock heads, induction, and stock torque converter: It'd lose a lot of bottom-end torque.
WS6Formula305, Since you already have a roller cam, your kit pice will be much cheaper than $699. You should be able to buy one of Comp Cam's camshafts for about $260 to $300, and then add their springs for another $60 or so. The only other issue is the rocker arms. There's some inexpensive claimer-style roller rocker arms in Summit's catalog about $160. You can re-use your present roller lifters.
I highly recommend that you buy the Comp Cam's recommended springs for whatever cam you buy. Same advice for the other cam manufacturers. THEY know which spring works best with their cams so rely on their experience.
Unfortunately there is no clear-cut cheap way to stellar valvetrain performance. You really have two ways to go: The cheap route for modest performance gains (which works quite well for many folks!) or the expensive route for stellar gains.
In the case of the valvetrain, you really need to determine where you are engineering your performance: Torque, midrange, or high-end performance. Once you decide, you can plan on the equipment requirements. For instance, if your 305 is going to stay below 5000 RPM at all times, then an AFR hydrarev kit is pointless, as is probably a n aftermarket ignition box (nitrous apps excluded).
Midrange performance is probably the easiest valvetrain upgrade for most of us. This is the 6000 RPM and under crowd. Luckily this covers nearly all TPI applications involving the long runner design. To get good 6K performance will require only that you pick a good cam, add good valvesprings, and make sure the valves can handle the added lift. You can probably get away with press-in rocker studs, and stamped steel rocker arms.
Personally, I used my pressed in studs and a set of used Comp Magnum roller-tipped rocker arms. After 30 or 40 passes down the strip, and two driving seasons, the 136,000 mile engine shows no sign of wear, oil consumption, or signs of slowing down. It revs easily to 6000 RPM, which is where I shift, by the way. Now, this probably wont apply to you as I'm still using a computer controlled Quadrajet on an Edelbrock Performer manifold... Still, the concept will be the same.
Oh, and by the way: On the issue of those heads: I'd give he folks at World Products a call and as THEM what kinds of valve lift they will handle. I dont know, and am certainly not an expert on WP products.
Cheers,
--Dan
Yes, Bill, I was going to suggest a cam just like yours, but I didnt know the exact specs. A 210/215 duration roller cam with about .5" lift sounds just right for a modded TPI305. Note I say modded! That cam wouldnt work as well in an engine with completely stock heads, induction, and stock torque converter: It'd lose a lot of bottom-end torque.
WS6Formula305, Since you already have a roller cam, your kit pice will be much cheaper than $699. You should be able to buy one of Comp Cam's camshafts for about $260 to $300, and then add their springs for another $60 or so. The only other issue is the rocker arms. There's some inexpensive claimer-style roller rocker arms in Summit's catalog about $160. You can re-use your present roller lifters.
I highly recommend that you buy the Comp Cam's recommended springs for whatever cam you buy. Same advice for the other cam manufacturers. THEY know which spring works best with their cams so rely on their experience.
Unfortunately there is no clear-cut cheap way to stellar valvetrain performance. You really have two ways to go: The cheap route for modest performance gains (which works quite well for many folks!) or the expensive route for stellar gains.
In the case of the valvetrain, you really need to determine where you are engineering your performance: Torque, midrange, or high-end performance. Once you decide, you can plan on the equipment requirements. For instance, if your 305 is going to stay below 5000 RPM at all times, then an AFR hydrarev kit is pointless, as is probably a n aftermarket ignition box (nitrous apps excluded).
Midrange performance is probably the easiest valvetrain upgrade for most of us. This is the 6000 RPM and under crowd. Luckily this covers nearly all TPI applications involving the long runner design. To get good 6K performance will require only that you pick a good cam, add good valvesprings, and make sure the valves can handle the added lift. You can probably get away with press-in rocker studs, and stamped steel rocker arms.
Personally, I used my pressed in studs and a set of used Comp Magnum roller-tipped rocker arms. After 30 or 40 passes down the strip, and two driving seasons, the 136,000 mile engine shows no sign of wear, oil consumption, or signs of slowing down. It revs easily to 6000 RPM, which is where I shift, by the way. Now, this probably wont apply to you as I'm still using a computer controlled Quadrajet on an Edelbrock Performer manifold... Still, the concept will be the same.
Oh, and by the way: On the issue of those heads: I'd give he folks at World Products a call and as THEM what kinds of valve lift they will handle. I dont know, and am certainly not an expert on WP products.
Cheers,
--Dan
My friend can get me anything I want from Crane Cams for half price because they do a lot of work at Discount Tires for the guys that work at Crane (office in Daytona Beach
). Does Crane have any good cams for my 305? I don't have the money to work on the induction setup... possibly a port job on the runners and plenum, but as I don't have the facilities at my house or the expertise to perform any of the work 
. The xTreme energy grind I was looking at was indicated for 1000-5200 RPM performance, which is basically what I'm shooting for... I'm looking for a good performing 305 that's streetable, just a little something to enjoy. I'm 17 so I don't need a 500 horsepower monster to cruise around in (yet ). I figure the cam and heads matched to the free flowing exhaust and headers I've already gotten put on would make me maybe... 260-280hp. Probably on the lower side, heh heh. I read about the WP heads in... I don't remeber which magazine it was. They took an L69 block, threw on an 87 TPI setup (no porting, etc.) and dynoed it... and after that they put in a cam from Crane with the WP heads and gained around 60hp and 52 lb-ft. Stock manifolds, exhaust. So that's the route I'm looking to go for now... any more advice is appreciated. 
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