Thanks GD

I will do that... I have the gasket and new valve covers arriving on friday...
Do you think I should ask Tuned Performance to hold off on the tune until I figure the rest of the Frankenstein Engine?

 

Yes. There's really no telling what you have there unfortunately.

GD

 

Thanks GD I really appreciate the help....

I will have time to work on it friday and saturday I will try to get as much info as possible....

Have a great day tomorrow...

 

Here are the photos of the heads without the valve covers... They look new as well nothing loose

Passenger side

 

Driver's Side

 

Side shot of head / intake

 

One more thing to fix...
Does anyone know if I need somehow close this or is this a passage for the coolant that has been blocked off by the cap on the upper right side of the photo?

 

Coolant passage on the bottom of the t-body. Helps to keep the T-body from frosting up in certain driving conditions when cold out.

 

Those are factory heads for your car. TPI L98 heads. They must have realized the intake wouldn't bolt up to the Vortec heads and swapped the factory heads back on (hopefully with at least a refresh).

The ports on the throttle body are just for throttle body cooling,. You can cut them off and shave down the casting to where it's just the IAC portion. Those ports are both unnecessary. You don't need a plug on them.

GD

 

Thanks TTOP350... I am not going to have this problem down here in South Florida...

 

Thanks GD

Everything looks new on the heads hopefully it is... I got the injectors in now I am polishing the plenum and painting the rest to remove the Ugly gold color!!!

 

Glad they kept the 083s much better than a swirl port tbi head to bad they didn’t turn out to be vortecs.
@GeneralDisorder Is a 183 or does that say 193 a tbi head ?
I didn’t see the 083 on the passengers head

 

Thanks Tuned Performance...

 

Yeah - now that I look at the other casting number.... does it have two different heads? That looks like it's a 193 and a 083......

I have no idea what a 193 head is or what kind of chamber it has compared to the L98 head.

It's starting to look like this is a real mutt.

GD

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...4102193-a.html

thats not good probably a larger cc head compared to a 083.
You would of thought this would of changed the compression results.

 

Today I cleaned the fuel lines and the fuel rail ran the pump until the gas was 100% clear, replaced the fuel filter again with another K&N, the fuel filter I removed was not bad the gas that came out was clear only a few small specs in the fuel... Installed the new fuel injectors etc... but when I turned on the ignition I had a fuel leak on both middle cylinders on the driver's side... passenger side was 100% dry... I got the injectors from SouthBayFuelInjectors... I had no leaks with the old ones.. could the new ones be defective?

The car continues to run rough and when I disconnect the cable to the injectors the 2 front cylinders on the passenger side don't affect the rpm...
I noticed that if I turn the injectors towards the back of the car they leak a lot less and I was able to run the engine for a short while and make a short video of it...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jrabotatat...83902.mp4?dl=0

I am really running of ideas on what to do here...

At least most of the gold paint is out

 

Vacuum lines on the rear passenger side of the plenum....

The fuel pressure regulator is connected the the small line on the plenum
Now the big port on the plenum was connected to a 90 degree reducer that goes to a dual line connector under the coil... there is another port there that has a broken line and I found a broken hard plastic line under the plenum disconnected... Can anyone that has a TPI check where does two lines connect to?

 

 

The line next to the fuel pressure regulator goes to the one sticking out of the wiring loom by the coil.
The one starting out under the throttle body goes to the egr solenoid then onto the egr.

 

Thanks, Tuned Performance

 

Not sure what front cylinders your referencing 1 ,3 or 1 and 2.
1 is the first on the drivers side 2 is on the passengers side.
1,3,5,7 are on the drivers side 2,4,6,8 are passengers side.
Are the plug wires on correctly. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 is your firing order.

 

Sorry my fault... I made the numbers sequential when I removed the spark plugs and that is creating the confusion...

But the ones that are not firing are #2 & #4

 

Looks like your image didn’t post, I’m thinking it has to be ignition related since you have good compression.
It can’t be a blockage in the fuel rail. Those are the first two feed in the rail.

 

Thanks Tuned Performance

I am going to check the firing order tomorrow..
When I replaced the cables I did not check just replaced the cables one by one....

 

The rotation of the firing order is clockwise.

 

Lets back this up just a bit. THIS ENGINE HAS TWO DIFFERENT CYLINDER HEADS. One is a swirl port TBI head and the other is a 083 TPI head. Heaven only knows what pistons are in it at this point, what the compression ratios are, or if they are even all the same bore.

 

Are both types TBI and TPI heads exactly the same on the visible areas?

 

Casting numbers don't lie. The heads are probably very similar by outward appearance. Maybe differences to the pattern on the front/back - the "casting marks"

But surely this can't be good. Here's some information on flow rates:

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...t-heads.10579/

While the static compression may be the same, cylinder filling due to major port difference is probably way off. This is probably resulting in different fueling requirements for each bank, and the TPI only has a single O2 sensor monitoring the driver's side bank. It is *assumed* by the ECM that 1/8 of the total MAF airflow is going into each cylinder - that is not the case when you have radically different airflow through different heads.

Monitor your exhaust temps on the passenger side vs. the driver side. I bet you see significant differences indicating different fuel/air mixture.

GD

 

Thanks GD...

It is just hard to believe someone would do that... what were they thinking...
Why spend the money on a crate engine if you are going to do that..

Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to work on the car... The rep on the auto parts store near me had a similar problem with the vibration and 2 cylinders not firing... He told me to try to replace the ignition module on the distributor.. I will try to do that tomorrow and also figure out what to do to stop the gas leak on the injectors...

 

Call South Bay injectors - they can help with the injector sealing issues. There is a specific sequence for installation.

GD

 

GD I followed the sequence to the dot.... Contacted South Bay Injectors and Frank told me that it must be the o-Rings I bought new ones and will try to replace.. Not looking forward to do it but what can I do...

Thanks

 

Hello Everyone...

I was only able to work on the car today...
The engine is running perfect now idles at 700RPM with the TPS set to .054 when the engine is off and it jumps to .061 at idle with the engine turned on...

The two cylinders (#2 & #4) that were not firing are now working perfectly after I changed the distributor module (the old one was kind of melted and had no thermal paste on it)...
Most of the vibration went away but I still have some from 1000RPM to 2300RPM but it is a fraction of what it was before...

Tomorrow I will work on the Flex plate to torque converter bolts that GeneralDisorder on Post #3...

Can I try to run the engine without the bolts to isolate the transmission and converter?

Thanks for all the help!!!

 

Ahh I fixed with the fuel leak with new o-rings from Advanced Auto Parts... I replaced all on the driver's side the ones that came from SouthBayInjectors look a little thiner... well it worked...

Thanks again

 

Yes you can run the engine with the torque converter bolts removed.

GD