Vinscully50

I'm trying to get some of the little electronic kinks out of my car. I have a general idea of how to replace the IAC from this YouTube video:

My main question is when reading other threads on here a lot of them talk about making sure the IAC valve is at 1 1/8 of an inch. I'm assuming they main the spring. How do I do this? I have a new ACDELCO IAC Valve and the spring on it is stiff as hell. It's measured at 7/8 of an inch.

I can easily take the old IAC Valve off with pliers that's not a problem. When putting it back on threads say to make sure it's at 13 ft-lbs. I have a 1-1/4 inch socket but I'm not sure if I can fit my 1/2 Torque Wrench back there or even the socket in general. Is it ok just to tighten it with a crescent wrench? It's not easy to over-torque is it? If I do accidentally will it damage the new IAC?

Sorry if these questions have been asked before. When I was reading through other threads I couldn't find anything specific answers to these questions.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

If it’s at 7/8 inch protruding it’s fine. Don’t worry about the torque just snug it down.
After you install the iAc do a minimum idle setting and then adjust your tps.

Vinscully50

I installed the new IAC valve this morning. Almost immediately the rough idle was gone. I drove her for 20 minutes down the highway and she ran smooth! When I fired her up the second time no bogging or surging or stalling, just smooth idle. The idle is still a little high in park/neutral. It's about 800 in park/neutral and drops to 550-650 in OD. Maybe a small vacuum leak somewhere?
But it's a huge improvement over 1000 and surging between 1000 and 0 and stalling.