Did anyone over use these your opinions wanted eating cream pie rn so have at it

 

Torx = mo better than SHCS.

 

I sized them up and raided the bolt bins at the hardware store for stainless allen heads and it was cheaper and much better quality then alot the ebay kits.

 

Just for the runners and plenum. I left the factory lower intake fasteners alone.

Yeah, avoid those ebay bolt kits. The black oxide bolts corrode something fierce. The stain-lousy kits use really soft bolts. The threads are usually OK, it's the socket that's the problem - a set of Craftsman Bolt-Outs will be in your future.

And use quality hex drivers. This is especially true if you need to use ball-end drivers. Thirty years ago, SLP supplied a black oxide, SHCS bolt kit with a ball end driver with their runners. I drove around for decades with a wedged in, snapped off ball (ouch) in one of the bolts.

 

Paired with the proper fitting Torx bit, the factory bolts are as good as anything you'll find in the local hardware store bin. The only downside is finding that perfect Torx bit, and replacing the factory bolts when they inevitably get chowdered from frequently removing and reinstalling them, often with poor quality tools or technique. Socket head bolts will work, they just have less surface area engaging the tool. Ironically, new socket head bolts have the same problem that the stock bolts have when worn out, or paired with Chinesium tools and poor technique.

 

I swapped mine for a stainless Allen kit and it worked great for me. My FIRST manifold came with Allen hardware and they work well also.

The advantage of using ball-tipped Allen sockets was worth it for me. It's much easier to get to all the bolts IMO using Snap-On ball-tipped Allen sockets.

Just my personal opinion. I didn't change the lower intake to cylinder head bolts. Wasn't a compelling reason to do so.

WHATEVER you do, DON'T use cheap sockets. It's hard enough to get at all the bolts - stripping or breaking something will not make the job easier.

GD