So much issue has evolved after I drove home the 91 formula 305 tpi. It still will stall if you run it really hard then let it coast in neutral. But cold starts it runs perfect and reves fine. But starting at operating temp it needs the gas pedal to be pumped while cranking and it sputters to life backfiring and running really rich with some smoke out the tail pipe then finally smoothed out and runs at a out 600 rpm. But it runs fine on a cold start any ideas? Has new tps and iac valve. Didn't fix the issue. Thanks in advance!

 

Live data? BLM, INT? Fuel pressure?

You give us nothing to work with.

GD

 

I have no device to retrieve live data since I am broke. and posting the same thing over and over doesn't seem to help me and I wouldn't be here if I knew everything about 3rd gens and had some scanner, my scanner is just a bent paper clip. And I will post fuel pressure tomorrow since I will rent a gauge. Sorry for lack of data but I don't have a scan tool.

 

If you are going to work on and ponder over the strange proclivities of 30 year old computerized fuel injection, you had best acquire a scan tool. Being broke is a non sequitur. You can't effectively repair computerized fuel injection without consulting the computer.

Being sorry about the lack of data is unnecessary. We are simply unable to interpret your symptoms without live data. So you'll resort to poking at the engine with a coat hanger which will neither fix the problem of the car running poorly nor is it particularly effective at improving your current monetary situation.

Driving is a privilege. Not a right. One that must be earned - like money, and scan tools. It would appear you have some more earning to do before this one gets solved.

You likely have bad injectors, or a bad FPR.... neither of which can you prove without testing, and if you can't afford a scan cable and some free software then I doubt injectors and FPR or their proper testing is on the table either. You can't fix it with pocket lint and fingernail clippings so how exactly do you plan to fix it? You plan on loading up the parts cannon with what exactly? You think this will be more economical than buying a scan cable? We call that troubleshooting with Visa for a reason.

Buying a scan tool or cable IS THE CHEAPEST way forward. If you can't afford that then you can't afford to drive right now.

GD

 

This almost needs to be a sticky for new members.

Reality, for under $100 you can see everything the computer sees.

In addition to a way to read live data, if you do not have a Timing Light, Fuel Pressure Gage, Multi-meter, and a set of Torx sockets, you are not ready to work on a TPI.

 

hey I'm not trying to be rude, I truly don't know what in doing and I am having a bit of a hard time finding what I need since I have all the tools just nothing that will give me live data on an obd1 system. What would be some good programs and what connector should I get? I can't seem to find a sticky or thread about the actual tool I need. Any links would be nice. I don't really know what I'm doing I've only ever worked on carburated vehicles so I don't know what I'm doing with the whole tpi thing. And redirection to a thread about getting started on retrieving live data. Thanks!

 

MOATES.net cable, WinALDL or Tuner Pro RT and a laptop.

 

5+ years ago my IROC began having stalling issues similar to yours. Eventually it got to the point where when I started the car as soon as I stepped on the gas it died. Turns out it was the ECM. I would get a cable and see if you can get a reading from the ECM. If you can't it's probably the ECM on its way out.

 

thanks for the info! The ecm is about a year old but I'll definitely get some readouts since it's just a cable and a program I'll figure it out. But the main difference of this issue from others is it no longer runs bad when hot it will only stall after a high rpm pull but if I keep it in gear it runs fine but if I hit a stop light after a pull and have it in neutral it dies. And when it starts back up ot runs bad. But yesterday I drove it all over keeping it in low rpms but was at 220 f most of the time and it still started fine. So I'm starting to think it's not temp related. Will get back to you with some readouts soon!

 

Update: fuel pressure is 33psi at idle and from what I've heard that's wrong. So thats one thing and the idle was low so we adjusted it. I also got ahold of tuning/live data tools for nearly free since I have a laptop and tuner pro is "free". So what's idle fuel pressure supposed to be? I got an adjustable regulator so I can change it. And if that doesn't work then it's time to do the dirty and drop the tank for a new fuel pump.