I have a 88 Iroc 5.7 TPI. Can someone educate me on the 9th injector; what it does, where it's located and where to purchase a new one? I dis a search and I see posts ab out deleting and tuning it out. I really don't want to do that and would rather just replace.

Also, I had a previous post about injectors and hard start so this made me think since I'm replacing them should I do the 9th at the same time?

 

It injects a little gas when cold starting, kind of like a choke. As far as I know, they don't make them anymore. Might be able to find a used one on eBay or Hawk's. Better off burning a new chip and deleting it.

 

It uses a temp sensor in the front of the manifold. next to the ecm temp sensor... If it detects that the motor is cold, it sends signal to the cold start injector to shoot some gas into the motor at start up to help the motor start.

Its on the driver side between I thik the 2nd and 3rd runner .



Some people say disconnecting it electrically is all you need to do...I found that cold starts take considerably longer and it does not run well for a bit.... so IMO if you do anything you need to repalce it, or delete it and remove it completley.


Nobody makes them anymore.

 

As Johnny and Karr said it’s out of production so a new one is out. I have one in my parts bin that worked a few years back that came off my car. You may be able to send yours to an injector place and they could possibly refurb it if bad?

I believe the way to test the CS injector is to remove the torx head bolt, pull the injector out a bit and place it in a jar or something and turn the key to on to prime the rail and see if it leaks? If it leaks after the system is primed and newly pressurized you know it is bad. Leave it out a few hours to be sure. Maybe someone else can chime in on this but I think it’s correct.

 

So I noticed a what looks like a vacuum port as part of the 9th injector. When I put my finger to it there seems to be some vacuum but not sure. So does this port need to be plugged or left open? thank you

 

Pretty sure what you are describing is the port for the PCV, there should be a rubber hose leading to the actual PCV valve in the driver side valve cover.

 

If your talking about the 1980 TA you have listed in your avatar, and if it's factory stock (no later year engine/fuel induction system swapped in), of course you don't have a "9th injector" , because you don't have the other 8 injectors either, your car was built with a 4 barrel carb .....

 

@Reddragon88gta, on the injector itself there is a little nipple that sticks out right below the connection part of the injector itself. Something I noticed and am not sure if there should be a hose there or not. I put a cap on it for now. I can't find a foto of the 9th injector that is fully connected to see how it looks. Hey, thanks for your reply.

 

No problem, this is for a TPI car right? If so I believe that is your vacuum port that goes to your PCV on the driver side valve cover.

Is this the part you are talking about?




on the left is the injector itself and the end on the right is what goes to your fuel rail.

 

No, that is another car I have. I am going to update the foto.to show the 88 GTA I can see that causing confusion. thanks for letting me know.

 

So I can see the hose going to the PVC. but that is a big hose and plugged in ok. So I am attaching a foto of the 9th injector. You will see the connector plugged in and will also see a red plug I put in the nipple I have mentioned. See what you think. Thanks

 

Feed pipe missing?

 

That is indeed the 9th injector, I’ve never seen one hacked up like that. I would just buy a cold start injector delete kit off eBay, roughly $30, and get that out of there. Be sure to check what they did at the back of the rail to be sure it won’t leak fuel. The kit I mentioned comes with a nice plug for the fuel rail too that won’t leak fuel.

Your next step is to get ahold of Tuned Performance on here or another reputable tuner and get a new tune/prom chip with 89’ programming to delete it. After that car will start faster and with his base tune run cooler and better. You can also get VATS deleted if so equipped and delete EGR or AIR emissions if already removed or have plans in the future to do so. Just my .02 but it’s what I would do and did on
mine. Also check to see if anything else has been modified.

If you want to keep everything original I think I still have my original cold start injector in my parts bin that I would let go for $65 plus shipping. It worked and didn’t leak when I removed it 4 years or so ago.

 

So when I bought the car a young cat in south texas, he did tell me that the car was chipped and was smog delete, the idle is chipped controlled. So I had to learn the car since I was not familiar with TPI. I had gotten t-boned in my 80 T/A and it took 2 years to get it back so in the meanwhile I bought this baby.
So later on, while just piddling, I noticed this wire(9th injector connector) just laying there. I thought, well did this come off. I connected it and plugged that little port cause it felt like vacuum on it. So I am thinking that because the connector was off and since it has been chipped that the 9th was taken out of the loop. So don't know of putting it back on and putting a plug on it is doing anything at all and if leaving it as is will not hurt anything. so why am I messing with it? I keep getting a code 34. Have new MAF, filter s clean, TPS switch checks good, no vacuum leaks. when turning off, it RPM's go high 1200 or so, comes down and then up again. engine shakes, engine light comes on. So i turn it back on and after a while engine goes out and car runs fine. Today I did a couple of show n shines. After sitting for 3 or 4 hrs and time to leave, the engine light comes on and then when I take off it goes off. So I am fishing here and am thinking the 9th may be a non issue. Tomorrow am checking the wiring at MAF connector to check for breaks there. Thank you all, very appreciative

 

Thank You for providing that clarification, giving wrong car year info is an almost certain way to get wrong answers........

 

Ok, so I solved the erratic, misfiring and stalling issue. It was not the 9th.....So many years ago my car was doing the same thing. by chance back then, I pulled the MAF connector off the MAF and by pure chance noticed 2 bare wires. When the touched, the car would misbehave. at times when they were not touching all would be ok. Seems that the connector wire was hanging low and got close to the fan. So over the years, enough was shaved off by the fan until they were bare. replaced it with a new pigtail connector. But it seems that I did not do a great job with the twist on wires caps that a wire came loose inside the twist on cap, Re-did all 5 twist on caps and secured them. All is copacetic now. Thank you all for your input, greatly appreciated and I hope my experience and resolve with this issue will help someone out there.