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Hard cold starting

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Old Mar 4, 2002 | 10:38 PM
  #1  
Rosco the Iroc's Avatar
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From: NE PA
Car: '89 IROC, '14 LTZ Burb, '18 H6 Outb
Engine: 355 TPI /w Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Hard cold starting

From the sig you can see the gen cond of the car. Here's the issue about 10k ago it has been a bear to start on cold days or not run for a few days. I have no codes. Good spark and fuel press. If I crank it for about 20sec stop turn the key off and on and give it about 5-15 really short crank taps it will sputter start.
I have to keep the idle up around 1500-2500 to keep it lit. After a min the idle works as normal about 1000 till warm. Anyone also have this or most helpful fixed it? All other times the Iroc runs great for having so many mi.
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Old Mar 5, 2002 | 12:48 AM
  #2  
DANIELEK's Avatar
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From: Alberta
Car: Red Rooster
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: M5
Faulty Coolant Temp sensor might give you cold start problems
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Old Mar 5, 2002 | 01:21 AM
  #3  
88305tpiT/A's Avatar
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From: Ft Worth, TX USA
Car: 2016 Ram 1500
Engine: 3.0L Diesel
Transmission: 8sp
How is the idle quality? is it smooth or bumpy. I have had similar problems but there are MANY different possible causes for hard starting.
did it do the hard start thing before you put the jet chip in?
Do you have a cold start injector? (things are terrible!)
I would assume that you cleaned the IAC passages and stuff and that you looked at the air filter and everything.
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Old Mar 5, 2002 | 02:28 AM
  #4  
Rosco the Iroc's Avatar
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From: NE PA
Car: '89 IROC, '14 LTZ Burb, '18 H6 Outb
Engine: 355 TPI /w Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
The idle is good after I get it running. I just pulled the TB and cleaned the IAC and passages. I had the chip for about 2 years before it started being a grumpy old man on startup. It's a '89 so it's the first year w/o the 9th inj. Maybe I'll ohm out the temp sensor(s) and see if they are reading right. Fans come on at the right times though. Thanks for the replys I'm pretty good at this stuff but it's got me stumped and it's annoying.
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Old Mar 5, 2002 | 12:47 PM
  #5  
88305tpiT/A's Avatar
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From: Ft Worth, TX USA
Car: 2016 Ram 1500
Engine: 3.0L Diesel
Transmission: 8sp
ok then I have one more suggestion. there is something called the oil pressure switch that controls when the fuel pump runs. it is controled by a relay on the firewall DIRECTLY in front of the driver and the actual switch is attached onto the oil filter mount. if your primary fuel circuit cant recognize the fact that you are starting your car and need the pump to run -- you must then crank the car until you build up 7psi of oil pressure and the circuit I mentioned above activates the pump. bottom line is check your fuel pump relay and all the connections.
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Old Mar 5, 2002 | 09:25 PM
  #6  
Rosco the Iroc's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 180
Likes: 13
From: NE PA
Car: '89 IROC, '14 LTZ Burb, '18 H6 Outb
Engine: 355 TPI /w Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Originally posted by 88305tpiT/A
ok then I have one more suggestion. there is something called the oil pressure switch that controls when the fuel pump runs. it is controled by a relay on the firewall DIRECTLY in front of the driver and the actual switch is attached onto the oil filter mount. if your primary fuel circuit cant recognize the fact that you are starting your car and need the pump to run -- you must then crank the car until you build up 7psi of oil pressure and the circuit I mentioned above activates the pump. bottom line is check your fuel pump relay and all the connections.
Hummm I could see that. I'll have to look into that idea. I have replaced the sender but not the relay. But it that was true why does it start with a short crank and not a long one that would press the oil system?

Last edited by Rosco the Iroc; Mar 8, 2002 at 02:07 AM.
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