Its got a stock 350 TPI, all free mods, 700r4 trans, and 2.73 gears.

It came with duel converters. which are still on it. I would like to keep my heads, but am willing to do work to them.

I want to do cam, headers, 3.73 gears, and other mods.

I took the smog and air conditioning off, and planing to upgrade the ignition.

What will it take to put my car into the low 13's or high 12's, with the L98 heads and factory TPI setup.

You guys have helped me in the past and I thank you guys.
I would love to get up with some of you guys and talk cars, but I from kentucky and havent seen many people on the board that are local.

Thanks for the help!! ThirdGen rules!!!:rockon:

 

If your going to keep the stock setup, even with porting I believe your going to have a bit of a diffcult time getting to the 12s without some drug or a blower. I know some people using the L98 Corvette (Aluminum heads) that are in the 12s but they have aftermarket runners and base + ported plenum. As far as reworking your heads to make them flow better I think your money would be better spent or saved for either aluminum heads or cast that flow better maybe some Vortecs? With Scoggin Dickeys newly released base? How much are you looking/able to spend. Also most people have found that 3:73s are a bit too bit for thirdgens that are NA, seems like 3:45s are the ticket

 

Try talking to 90Z28SS, he went 13.1 on stock heads, cam, internals, intake and chip

 

I want to keep my stock heads and Intake. I am willing to port&polish and instal bigger valves, 3-angle valve job, shaving the heads and a bigger cam.

I just dont want to spend the money on new heads and intake.

I think modifying the stock part should be good enough to get me into the low 13's or high 12's like 12.9999.

Anyone buit their stock heads? What did you do to them?

 

If you're planning on sinking a little coin into rebuilding stock heads, you REALLY should consider a low end aftermarket head. You should be able to pick up a set of aluminum L98s or edelcrocks new or barely used in the 4-600 range if you look around. They're not that much more than that new. By the time you rebuild stock heads you'll have spent almost that much money anyway. IMO it doesn't make sense, low 13s is definitely pushing the envelope for stock heads especially on an otherwise restricted combo like stock TPI.

If you're dead set on using the stock TPI parts then here's my best advice....

1- You will need to come out of the hole hard. Like 1.7 60', prolly better. You're not gonna be able to get more than 103-105mph at the max w/ stock TPI on it. To run 12s on that power you will need to come off the line HARD. To do that you're straight up gonna need a high end torque converter like a vig or a yank. There's also a good chance you'll need at least a little bit of suspension work, and you'll definitely need slicks or drag radials.

2- You need as much power as possible. Siamese the stock TPI base. If you don't know what that means, do a search on siamesed base on this forum, it's been beaten into the ground here. Basically what you're doing is cutting out the diveider between the runner in the base to eliminate the long tube runner effects. This costs a negligible amount of torque in the 2-3k rpm range (especially negligible w/ a nice converter) but adds lot of power past that.

3- 3.73s is probably overkill. Off the top of my head i think that most of the fast A4 cars are not using gears that short unless it's been built for it (miniram, great heads, big cam, etc) With a siamesed base, and if you're really lucky on cam selection (and you have decent heads) you might make enough power to use 3.73s. 3.42s or 3.23s would be a safer bet though to keep you pulling hard through the big end. You don't need big gears to launch hard, thats what the torque converter is for.

4- beyond that, you're still gonna have to be good at the little stuff. Tuning (both in the PROM and FP and timing tweaks at the track), making sure the parts are all in good order (cleaned, balanced injectors, clean plugs, fresh plug wires, etc)

 

Hold on just a minute here...

You say the cars a clone, how much of it is a clone? If its a 92 Z with a 350TPI (assuming factory) then the car has/had 3.23 gears stock. In stock configuration the car should run low low low 14's.. So you've got a second to cut... Free mods are all fine and dandy but they don't do much if anything. Upgrading from 3.23's to 3.42's probably isn't cost effective. Look into cam and/or 1.6 roller rockers, torque converters, slicks, and rear suspension mods. After that I'd say you're looking at heads... Exhaust work wouldn't hurt, but again the factory exhaust isn't bad enough that it would make that much of an improvement.

 

I changed every thing from the 92 to my 89 except the rear and trans. My trans had just been gone through, and the rear had 3.42. I could not change the rears at the time and had to let It go with the clip. I took of all the smog, and the air conditioning.

I will go with a 3.42 or 3.73 gear. I heard that the 4 cly s10 converter would work and was a decent stall. Is this true?
I am going to Port & polish my plenum and runners, Put on headers, and get rid of my cats. Im looking at slick too. I am also istalling a hi output Igniton system (not sure which one yet)

i figured I should be able to get into a high 13's time, with good tuning and I do have a few races under my belt. So Im not new at racing. I Know what it takes to get good 60 ft time as far as launcing a car.

Oh yeah, Im going to add sfc, lac, and good shocks. add the slicks and I sould get a good launch.

Weight reduction will help too.

 

The S10 converter is a nice piece on the cheap. However, it won't hold a candle to the launch you could get with a nice vigilante or yank. Even though it's a nice piece, the S10 is still a stocker and as such won't have the same improved STR and efficiency of a good 9.5" street converter. If you're only going for low 13s, the S10 will be OK. If you really want to make as much ET as possible with as little power as possible, you need to step up.