How to beat a LT1??
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,386
Likes: 1
From: In a mint Third Gen!
Car: Red 87 IROC-Z28 T-Top
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: BW 9-Bolt 3.27
A stock auto LT1?? Not that much. They are a few tenths faster. We have more TQ and they have more HP and they are heavier. Get traction, free up restricted power, maybe a TC or gears too. Thats all I can think of right now.
Last edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8; Mar 21, 2002 at 09:57 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
From: Starkville, MS
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Like they said before the autos aren't that much faster than the L98s. I'd suggest a good exhaust system (ie headers and a cat back or muffler). Port your intake to free up some more power. Get a K&N or try a cold air intake. Also, as was said before, gears and a TC would probably help too. Mind you, I haven't done any of this (cheap college student
) but from what I've heard it'll help bring out some power. The time in my sig was my first time at the track and I still have all stock parts, filters, muffler, etc.
Good luck,
David.
) but from what I've heard it'll help bring out some power. The time in my sig was my first time at the track and I still have all stock parts, filters, muffler, etc. Good luck,
David.
I have beaten quite a few Auto LT1s with the simple mods in my sig.
Keep this im mind when comparing an L98 to an LT1. The L98's intake system was designed for a 305 cu.in. motor, the LT1's intake was designed for 45 cu.in. more. Just get the aftermarket parts that are actually designed for a 350 and you'll have no problem with the LT1. The LT1 would'nt run very good with an intake designed for a 305 either.
An Accel base, SLP runners, ported plenum, SLP Headers,
LT4 Hot Cam would be way more than enough.
.
I would rather have 300HP and 500 ft.lbs
instead of 500HP and 300 ft. lbs any day...
:hail: TPI
Keep this im mind when comparing an L98 to an LT1. The L98's intake system was designed for a 305 cu.in. motor, the LT1's intake was designed for 45 cu.in. more. Just get the aftermarket parts that are actually designed for a 350 and you'll have no problem with the LT1. The LT1 would'nt run very good with an intake designed for a 305 either.
An Accel base, SLP runners, ported plenum, SLP Headers,
LT4 Hot Cam would be way more than enough.
.
I would rather have 300HP and 500 ft.lbs
instead of 500HP and 300 ft. lbs any day...
:hail: TPI
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 548
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, Texas
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.3 Gen III SBC
Transmission: 4L80E NTC 258mm Stall
Axle/Gears: Trick Chassis 9" 3.50 S-Strac
With the mods in my sig I have no problem taking LT1's I will take my friend 97 6 speed Z that has SLP cold air, TB bypass, Cags, a corsa cat back, hurst shifter (wow) , and a couple other free mods by about 1 car by 100 and yes he can launch good. and my motor has 175K miles. I think first (and most important) of all with a properly running L98, with headers, cat back, free mods, a GOOD chip, and maybe runners and base. you could hold one back through the traps (all you really need)
Factory you should take a stock or lightly modifyed LT1 until 40 on a good launch.
if you cant keep him back the the things i just listed then a stall and AFPR would get you out their. but it all depends I have seen L98s run low 15's stock or rarely high 13's it all depends how do you do against LT1's now?
Factory you should take a stock or lightly modifyed LT1 until 40 on a good launch.
if you cant keep him back the the things i just listed then a stall and AFPR would get you out their. but it all depends I have seen L98s run low 15's stock or rarely high 13's it all depends how do you do against LT1's now?
Well headers and an exhaust are given. I was thinking about some Hooker 1 5/8s headers forget the cat and some sorta aftermarket dealy. Maybe a Afpr and CAI and a underdrive pulley. I think with all that i should be the one who pulls away. Oh yeah I'll ask for my little bro too. Is there anyway for a LO3 to beat a LT1. A Vortec Powerd LO5 would be a nice touch!!!
Last edited by Torqomeo; Mar 22, 2002 at 01:17 AM.
Um, is this a trick question? Stock my car was beating stock LT1 autos... Up until 100MPH+ the L98 has the advantage. If you're comparing a MAF L98 then you might have to start modding... but Speed Density L98's are faster stock.
It sure would be nice if i could beat my buddies 94 T/A without a single mod. Man he would be red under the collar for wastin an extra 6000 for a new car that is slower. Damn that would be sweet. I will for surely put a new exhaust system on this summer. I'm sure i will get a cold air induction as well. The AFPR is a maybe at this time though. I was also thinkin of getting MSD ignition box like a 6a or somethin like that used off ebay or somethin. I'm hopin even if we do race and i lose he won't get away from me.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,386
Likes: 1
From: In a mint Third Gen!
Car: Red 87 IROC-Z28 T-Top
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: BW 9-Bolt 3.27
With a few mods you will beat him dude. Stock for stock they are close, the L98 being ahead most of race, then the LT1 usually pulls away a little.
Just get some drag radials to make use of the low down torque. With good hookups and more torque you'll nail him off the line easy every time. If he starts doing anything to his car though he's going to catch your *** quick.
BUT, I say, when in rome do as the romans. Put an LT1 intake like tpi_roc said and you'll have his superior intake only with more readily available choices for a heads and cam combo, and you still paid less than him. With that intake and a good heads/cam combo you'll have your tire burning torque but only now you can pull past 6 grand... or 4 grand for that matter. Then you can look forward to taking LS1's as well as snapping your rear
BUT, I say, when in rome do as the romans. Put an LT1 intake like tpi_roc said and you'll have his superior intake only with more readily available choices for a heads and cam combo, and you still paid less than him. With that intake and a good heads/cam combo you'll have your tire burning torque but only now you can pull past 6 grand... or 4 grand for that matter. Then you can look forward to taking LS1's as well as snapping your rear
For what its worth, i raced a guy i know in his 97 SS (auto) the other day, we raced from about 50mph up to 110mph, and i was completly by him when i backed off at 110. I was actually kinda suprised(so was he
) so i would agree that it doesnt take much.
:hail: L98
) so i would agree that it doesnt take much. :hail: L98
Why are there auto so pussified compared to ours??? Is it that Electronic Tranny of thiers?? At any rate im hopin a whole new exhaust will give me the jump on him if i don't already have it. Only Spring time and clean back streets will tell.
Senior Member
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 543
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From: long island
Car: 90 Formula, 02 ws6
Engine: 305 tpi, ls1
Transmission: 700r4, t-56
Axle/Gears: stock posi 2.73, 12 bolt with 4.11s
look at my sig
i run a 305 tpi and i kick the s**t out of a few lt1 cameros
with a 305 no less and i am auto and the ones i have raced have been 6 speeds
i run a 305 tpi and i kick the s**t out of a few lt1 cameros
with a 305 no less and i am auto and the ones i have raced have been 6 speeds
I would hold off on a MSD box till later.....do all the free mods and a complete tune-up, Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, Air Filter, Fuel Filter....Dump some injector cleaner in....some times it does good some times is does nothing. Then a Cat-back, then see that all these 350 people have problem with the TPI that was not designed for their engine, put on SLP runners, a baseplate and match everything and port the plenum. That should Shave alot off you time.
Re: How to beat a LT1??
Originally posted by Torqomeo
Well what do i need to beat a LT1 auto. When you have L98 auto??? Any proven combos that you know will beat em??
Well what do i need to beat a LT1 auto. When you have L98 auto??? Any proven combos that you know will beat em??
I've used big sticks, a baseball bat, even some chains
one time i resorted to fists, but that only hurt me
Driver has a lot to do with it.
My last time to the local track I was staged next to a red LS1 Z28 which I assumed was stock and capable of roasting me. I had just pulled straight in for a time trial from my 20 mile trip from work. Outside temp was in the mid to high 80's at about 10 o'clock on a Thursday night. By the time we got staged, my engine temp was at about 220 degrees!! He had cooled and pushed his car through the lanes (6 speed) and must have been cooler.
Lights came down and I TREED him with my slow .740 reaction time to his dead 1.2 something RT. I expected him to pass me before the 60 foot mark, but to my surprise I stayed ahead. Farther down the track I could hear him coming behind me, grabbing gears & spinning his Drag radials hard. He finally caught me (blew by me like I was sitting still) right at the lights, but my side came on. I had won!!! & I had beaten an LS1 !!! I was on cloud nine.
We got our time slips, and I had ran a 9.44 @ 74.87 to his 9.10 at 83 + MPH. All 1/8th mile. So I had beaten him all through reaction time.
Turns out his car has an intercooled Vortech blower on it too. I don't understand why he didn't run alot faster than 9.10 @ 83, but I think traction may have made as much as .5 seconds diff for him. I'd think an LS1 should run 8.50's to 8.70's stock.
My friends 95 Z28 auto 3.23 runs 8.80's with only a moroso air intake, BBK 52 mm TB and drag radials. No other mods.
Anyway, point is: A. Don't sleep at the line - even my .740 RT was pitiful, his was just way worse. B. Don't spin your tires & take some time to practice launching. See just how hard you can leave without spinning, or barely turning a tire.
That may be all the advantage you need.
Good luck,
Jason
My last time to the local track I was staged next to a red LS1 Z28 which I assumed was stock and capable of roasting me. I had just pulled straight in for a time trial from my 20 mile trip from work. Outside temp was in the mid to high 80's at about 10 o'clock on a Thursday night. By the time we got staged, my engine temp was at about 220 degrees!! He had cooled and pushed his car through the lanes (6 speed) and must have been cooler.
Lights came down and I TREED him with my slow .740 reaction time to his dead 1.2 something RT. I expected him to pass me before the 60 foot mark, but to my surprise I stayed ahead. Farther down the track I could hear him coming behind me, grabbing gears & spinning his Drag radials hard. He finally caught me (blew by me like I was sitting still) right at the lights, but my side came on. I had won!!! & I had beaten an LS1 !!! I was on cloud nine.
We got our time slips, and I had ran a 9.44 @ 74.87 to his 9.10 at 83 + MPH. All 1/8th mile. So I had beaten him all through reaction time.
Turns out his car has an intercooled Vortech blower on it too. I don't understand why he didn't run alot faster than 9.10 @ 83, but I think traction may have made as much as .5 seconds diff for him. I'd think an LS1 should run 8.50's to 8.70's stock.
My friends 95 Z28 auto 3.23 runs 8.80's with only a moroso air intake, BBK 52 mm TB and drag radials. No other mods.
Anyway, point is: A. Don't sleep at the line - even my .740 RT was pitiful, his was just way worse. B. Don't spin your tires & take some time to practice launching. See just how hard you can leave without spinning, or barely turning a tire.
That may be all the advantage you need.
Good luck,
Jason
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,728
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From: SE Michigan
Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
i really have no clue as to why not more then 2 people have said "get an LT1 intake"......the Lt1 will lose everytime till about half track thats when they start comin by...because of the tpi's flat @ss above 4500....stuff a lt1 intake on there and youll smoke his crack every time and twice on sunday....
and the lt1's make there peak torque at 2400 so you wont lose by puttin there intake on your ride....get a set of slickes a TC and the lt1 intake and youll be buried in the 13's and be givin ls1's a run for there money
and the lt1's make there peak torque at 2400 so you wont lose by puttin there intake on your ride....get a set of slickes a TC and the lt1 intake and youll be buried in the 13's and be givin ls1's a run for there money
I don't know what times you guys are running, but an stock Auto LT1 should hand you your *** if the driver knows what he is doing. I currently own an 87 Formula 350, a 94 TA A4 and an 02 M6 NHRA Edition TA. Torque is not a problem in my LT1 at all and up top it will pull like a mad dog compared to my L98.
My 87 comes out of the hole hard, but I will stick right with it, maybe a fender down till about 35-40mph, then I pull and keep pulling. My LS1 does this to both my L98 and LT1. My L98 can pull a half car length out of the hole, but that damn LS1 will happily rev right to the limiter and right past my L98 and LT1.
I have run a best of 14.5 in my Formula, 13.8 in my totally stock LT1 and clicked off a 13.05 in my stock LS1 with just a "DynoMouth" exhaust.
Not meaning this to be a flame, I love my formula, but there really isn't a comparison to the LT1. The TPI is just to restrictive and all though that tire burning tq is fun, it's usually high rmp hp that wins at the drag strip
My 87 comes out of the hole hard, but I will stick right with it, maybe a fender down till about 35-40mph, then I pull and keep pulling. My LS1 does this to both my L98 and LT1. My L98 can pull a half car length out of the hole, but that damn LS1 will happily rev right to the limiter and right past my L98 and LT1.
I have run a best of 14.5 in my Formula, 13.8 in my totally stock LT1 and clicked off a 13.05 in my stock LS1 with just a "DynoMouth" exhaust.
Not meaning this to be a flame, I love my formula, but there really isn't a comparison to the LT1. The TPI is just to restrictive and all though that tire burning tq is fun, it's usually high rmp hp that wins at the drag strip
To beat a stock LT1 auto with an L98 SD you need:
1. Good Tuneup
2. Airfoil
3. K&N filter w/cutouts in airlid
4. Good tires
These are basic performance pieces which should bring you nice results for your money. I ran 14.3 all day with these mods.
P.S. - do NOT buy a hypertech/Jet or other "vanilla" performance chip. If you think your car needs the fine tuning only a chip could offer (shouldn't be untill mid 13s on motor, although gains can be realized over even stock) look into burning your own PROMS.
Kyle
1. Good Tuneup
2. Airfoil
3. K&N filter w/cutouts in airlid
4. Good tires
These are basic performance pieces which should bring you nice results for your money. I ran 14.3 all day with these mods.
P.S. - do NOT buy a hypertech/Jet or other "vanilla" performance chip. If you think your car needs the fine tuning only a chip could offer (shouldn't be untill mid 13s on motor, although gains can be realized over even stock) look into burning your own PROMS.
Kyle
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From: Woodstock, GA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
A stock automatic LT! 4th gen should run very low 14s, maybe high 13s if the conditions are good. My 94Z, which is stock except for the muffler, turned consistent 14.07 at 98mph at Silver Dollar Raceway in GA in 90 degree weather...that, on a car with nearly 130k miles on it and original everything...Opti, plugs, wires, etc (I had just bought it). I personally have seen NO stock TPI car run those speeds, MAF or not...lightly modded one, yes, but not stock. Most around here ran high 14s/low 15s. A stripped 1LE maybe, but not your typical IROC/Z28/GTA.
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