I about 1 years time I will have enough money to build a new motor for my car. I would start from a 383 ci shortblock from Speed-O-Motive consisting of a high nodular 3.750" crank, 5.7 stage 1 GM rods with ARP wave-loc bolts, Hypereutectic flat top pistons (491 GRAM WT), sealed power moly rings, a fully machined & clearanced 350 4 bolt block, all assembled & balanced to within 1/2 gram, including flywheel, flexplate and dampner for $1680. To that I would add AFR 190cc street heads with 74cc chambers for a 10.3:1 CR for $1250. Then I would top everything off with a Miniram II intake from TPIS and a 52mm TB for another $1200. As far as camshafts go, I was thinking a 242*/246* @.050" w/ 112* LSA grind From Comp Cams with AFR's HydraRev kit to make power to 7000.

I know I will have a few more expenses, but I think this is a more budget oriented approach than most (I expect to spend 5k on motor). I plan on using a Yank/Vigilante 3000 stall and 3.42 gears) with a built TH700-R4 in a 3400 lb car.

I know I will need to burn my own PROM to make this motor work, and that vaccume may be poor (not sure how poor, though - please give me insight). I plan on driving this car to F-body club meets on weekends, car shows, drag races - NOT a daily driver.

How will reliability and streetability be on such a motor? What other components would you suggest as a better alternative?
can the shortblock take the power/rpm (? hp @ 7000 rpm)

And finally, How much power would this combo make vs. any alternative suggestions?

Please, no forced induction, no spray.

Thanks for all your help!
Kyle

Thanks

 

Desktop Dyno says you'll see around 470hp/470 tq. I have all the specs on the stuff your talking about so it's probably fairly close.

I'd probably go with the AFR 210's if instead of the 190's if you really want to spin that puppy to 7 grand. Also don't forget you'll need the fuel rail kit for that miniram, another $300+ dollars. If it's not gonna be a daily driver I'd go with a solid roller cam, subtract the cost of the rev kit and use it to pay for the rollers. You'll get better low end torque and high hp. If you go with the 210's, or even the 190's, AFR has excellent intake/exhaust flow ratio's so I'd might go with a single pattern cam since you don't want to use nitrous or a blower. Use about the same duration @ .05. DD shows an increase of 80 hp and and 20 ft/lbs, both peaks being about 500 rpm higher, with these 2 changes.

With a similar set up on my 406 I in the mid 11's in the 1/4 with my firebird NA. I do use nitrous on top of that so I spent the money on all forged rotating assembly.

 

Just out of Curiousity, with the existing modifications on my car, what does your Desktop Dyno come up with?
I'm planning on 3:42 posi rear end.
Tires are 245/60/15.
All Emissions and A/C.
Stock exhaust manifold at the moment too.
(I have FlowTech headers to install in the near future too....)
(can it take that into account?)

 

rhuarc30,

Thanks for your help - it is greatly appreciated. It would be great if everyone was a s helpful as you on this topic. Thanks again.

Any other comments? How about the reliability/longevity of this engine at 7K?

Any further help would be WELCOME.

Thanks,

Kyle