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Pain In The A$$ Maf Problems

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Old Apr 8, 2002 | 01:00 PM
  #1  
brian89transam's Avatar
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From: Grinnell, Iowa
Pain In The A$$ Maf Problems

My car was stubling and stalling at part throttle real bad, especially at around 35mph. It got so bad that it wouldn't run more than a few seconds without quiting. Then if you let it sit for awhile it would run fine for a little bit, and do it again. I thought it was fuel so I changed the fuel filter. Didn't fix it. Took it to the shop. They said it was cause the MAF sensor was dirty. It didn't throw any codes though. They just sprayed the sensor with carb cleaner I guess, and thought it was fixed. It still does it, but not as bad. I cleaned it again. Then I ran it until the fans turned on and then I shut it off so the burn off relay would kick in. It still isn't fixed. I unplugged the MAF, but it still did the same exact thing. I'm about to take it back to the shop and ream someone's ***. Is it the MAF? Does it need replaced? Help Please!!!
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Old Apr 8, 2002 | 05:24 PM
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SMURFN' Z28's Avatar
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From: Lakewood, CO
Car: 1994 Jeep Wrangler
ive never heard of "cleaning" a MAF before.... if the MAF is the problem im guess you will have to replace it
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Old Apr 8, 2002 | 07:47 PM
  #3  
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From: Bartow, FL
If you unplug the MAF and the car still stutters and such then it's highly unlikely the MAF is the problem. Start off checking for vacuum leaks, even a small one can hurt our cars driveability badly. Do the procedures to set your minimum air rate, and unplug the EST wire, and see if your idle drops to the 450 rom spec. If it doesn't turn the screw for the bleed air down, the engine will generally start to surge if there is a vacuum leak. The best stuff I've found to find the leaks is the NAPA brand starter fluid with upper cylinder lube. I don't know exactly why but it works awesome! Start checking for leaks by spraying it around all the vacuum conections and runners and stuff. Good luck
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 03:14 PM
  #4  
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From: Abilene, TX
First off make sure that the MAF is properly secured, new maf's come with the mounting plugs but not holes for the bracket screws, my maf was bouncing around screwing everything up, and it sounds familiar, but it went away after unplugging it. I would suspect the burnoff relay, O2 sensor, TPS, or maybe even the TB. Of course anytime you troubleshoot anything you must ensure all of the small, obvious things are considered.... good plugs, wires, injectors, FPR, acc. belt, alternator, oil, air filter, and strong groundings. I would NOT recommend spraying ANYTHING but air into the MAF those things are as frail as anything, it surely is bad now, trust me I just went through #4! Thats about all I can come up with, good luck!
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 04:54 PM
  #5  
Say'n Somthin's Avatar
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From: St. Charles, MO
I know this might sound stupid but when mine went bad I suspected that it was the MAF Sensor. I borrowed one off a friends car just to be sure. Ask one of your friends with a good MAF Sensor if you can borrow their's to end you worries!
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 08:10 PM
  #6  
brian89transam's Avatar
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From: Grinnell, Iowa
well, turns out it wasn't the sensor. It's the fuel pump. I'm gonna go back to my mechanic and show him how to test the fuel pressure in a 3rd gen fbody (right after I beat him repeatedly with a heavy torque wrench).
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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 09:10 PM
  #7  
Grim Reaper's Avatar
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From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
Why not convert to SD and learn to tune your own eproms? The total cost will be cheaper than a GM MAF and you'll NEVER have to worry about it again. I've seldom hear of MAP sensors going and they are a "dime a dozen" at a wrecking yard.
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