best way to shim a slave cylnder
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 255
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From: Beaver Dam, WI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
best way to shim a slave cylnder
ok, this weekend i put in the new slave cylender, but it still didnt feel right. i moved the ball-stud all the way foreward, and it still didnt feel right.
whats the best way to shim a slave cylender?
im sick of breaking these things and getting towed everywhere.
it feels like the clutch disengages about 3/4 of the way to the floor. im used to about half, at the most.
pictures would help, but a description might be good enough.
jon
whats the best way to shim a slave cylender?
im sick of breaking these things and getting towed everywhere.
it feels like the clutch disengages about 3/4 of the way to the floor. im used to about half, at the most.
pictures would help, but a description might be good enough.
jon
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
From: Beaver Dam, WI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
im trying to shim it foreward...
im thinkng of cutting the little splines, braces, extra plastic pieces behind the mounting surface, and instead of mounting it to the front of the mount, mounting it to the back. so it reaches further foreward.
anyone know if their are any "adverse" effects of this?
jon
im thinkng of cutting the little splines, braces, extra plastic pieces behind the mounting surface, and instead of mounting it to the front of the mount, mounting it to the back. so it reaches further foreward.
anyone know if their are any "adverse" effects of this?
jon
i'm still a little confused about how it mounts, only had one thirdgen with a manual trans around here, but i was just under my truck yesteday and it's a manual. could you just use a longer/shorter rod to do what you want and keep it in the original location? with my truck i couldn't get it to build up any preasure after i had it unhook to pull engine for a rebuild. i ended up getting a phenoix injector kit (preasure bleeder) and using a steering wheel jack to hold the pedal half way down to get it to develop good fluid preasure in the system. damn hydrolics to the clutch are so simple i couldn't figure out why it wouldn't bleed. must just be the way it set that allowed air to stay in part of the cylinders and not bleed out. the injector system forces all the air out and you can do it without any help.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
From: Beaver Dam, WI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
the mount is attached to the bellhousing, and when you mount it, you mount it from the back... so the rod and boot go througha hole, and a plate stops it.... behind that plate are a few plastic "strenghtening" braces.
i was thinking of cutting off the braces and moutning the cylender to the front of the mount, so the rear of the cylender and the hydrolic hookup and bleeder-screw are going out the back.
jon
i was thinking of cutting off the braces and moutning the cylender to the front of the mount, so the rear of the cylender and the hydrolic hookup and bleeder-screw are going out the back.
jon
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