Removing the driveshaft
Removing the driveshaft
I'm in the process of removing my driveshaft to replace the seal that goes between the driveshaft and transmission because its leaking, also I need to get at the e-brake cable....
Anyways, I got the 4 bolts off, but now what?? I tried moving the driveshaft forward but the thing wont budge at all, could it be rusted stuck?? Or is there something I'm forgetting??
Anyways, I got the 4 bolts off, but now what?? I tried moving the driveshaft forward but the thing wont budge at all, could it be rusted stuck?? Or is there something I'm forgetting??
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
No, that's all it takes... put something between the u-joint and the yoke nut, like a big screwdriver or something, and pry it gently out of there.
Pay close attention to the needls bearings in the u-joint caps: make sure none come out, and if they do, get them back in right. Especially don't let one get stuck in the botom of the cap between the end of the trunnion and the flat surface of the cap. If there's no grease left in the caps, or if the surface of the trunnion where the needles ride looks at all rough, you need new U-joints, and now would be a great time to replace them.
Pay close attention to the needls bearings in the u-joint caps: make sure none come out, and if they do, get them back in right. Especially don't let one get stuck in the botom of the cap between the end of the trunnion and the flat surface of the cap. If there's no grease left in the caps, or if the surface of the trunnion where the needles ride looks at all rough, you need new U-joints, and now would be a great time to replace them.
Make sure you have the wheels chocked. Once you take the driveshaft out, having the tranny in "park" does no good. I wouldn't rely on just the e-brake.
RB is right, once you take the two joint straps off, it will just pry right out. Also like RB said, be careful of the u-joint caps so they don't fall off.
RB is right, once you take the two joint straps off, it will just pry right out. Also like RB said, be careful of the u-joint caps so they don't fall off.
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iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,055
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From: Naples, FL
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: T-56
How do you have the car lifted? When I first tried to get mine out, I had the rear wheels and ramps but the shaft wouldn't move, then I put the rear weight on jackstands with wood on the unibody to disperse the wait so to take the wait off the rear and it popped right out with my bare hands.
I have the front of the car chalked up really good so it wont roll, and I have the rear up on jack stands. I found to when I need to rotate the driveshaft to get at the bolts, you can stick the car in neutral (I was really scared that the car would move at first, but it ain't going anywhere). I really wish i had a lift in my garage lol
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Yeah I think it's easier to remove with the car in neutral. We all wish we had 1200 bucks to spend on a lift in our garages. If I had a lift in mine I'd be doing a lot more stuff to my car.
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