odd 700r4 problem
odd 700r4 problem
i have read posts going back a few months and didnt seem to find what i was looking for so here goes i am the original owner of an all stock 92 camaro rs 305 tbi 700r4 .. the trans shifts fine thru all gears up and down manualy and automaticly shifting,, shiftting points are fine,, changed the fluid and filter wich looked and smelled fine no odd noises or overheatting that is obvious,,
the problem seems that i have no engine braking,,bring the car up to speed in any gear or speed let off the throttle and the rpms will drop down almost to idle ( as if pushing in a manual clutch and coasting) then i will have to bring the rpms back up to match the speed i am going for it to reengage power to the rear well hmmmmmmmmm now if reasoning tells me right this seems to be a converter lockup issue not really a trans problem,, can anyone walk me thru any steps to figure out where the problem is ,, i have seen a few post indicating a tcc switch would this switch show up as a fault on the obd trouble codes,,, any one ever have this problem????????
the problem seems that i have no engine braking,,bring the car up to speed in any gear or speed let off the throttle and the rpms will drop down almost to idle ( as if pushing in a manual clutch and coasting) then i will have to bring the rpms back up to match the speed i am going for it to reengage power to the rear well hmmmmmmmmm now if reasoning tells me right this seems to be a converter lockup issue not really a trans problem,, can anyone walk me thru any steps to figure out where the problem is ,, i have seen a few post indicating a tcc switch would this switch show up as a fault on the obd trouble codes,,, any one ever have this problem????????
Last edited by kat3876; Sep 17, 2002 at 01:49 PM.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Only a couple things could cause this new problem.
The oil filter housing is cracked or the o ring gasket is seated incorrectly or the old one dident come out.
The other would be improper fluid level.
An improperly adjusted TV cable could do this also but since changing the fluid is all you did..........
The oil filter housing is cracked or the o ring gasket is seated incorrectly or the old one dident come out.
The other would be improper fluid level.
An improperly adjusted TV cable could do this also but since changing the fluid is all you did..........
perhaps i was misunderstood this problem started way before i changed the fluid and filter i only changed those hopeing to fix the problem but no luck thanks for trying though
i forgot to mention that the tv cable is fine and adjusted acording to specs and fluid level is fine ,,also checked to see if electrical plug on tranny was seated properly and that the wires had not been damaged still searching for the answer///
transfixleo thanks for the reply ,,well in the manual 1-2 up shifts seem fine till you get off the throttle in either gear where as the rpms will drop as if you put it in nuetral(but when you get back on the throttle you have to raise the rpms up to where you left off at to feel the exceleration again) same with d but the rpms dont drop as much as 1-2 lets say 600 rpms as for OD doesnt seem to be noticeable in the rpms but no engine braking is felt per say at 70 mph on the freeway at 2100 rpms when you get off the throttle,,
thanks again
don
thanks again
don
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You are only supposed to have engine braking in D, 2 or 1, and much more pronounced in 2 or 1. If you do not have it then either the Overrun Clutches are not holding or the Hub itself is broken. If you have a lot of miles and especially if you do a lot of manual shifting at high RPM I would tend to suspect the Overruns are slipping, lost likely due to a Sprag that is on the way out.
transfixleo thank you for narrowing it down for us you would not happen to know where we could get a link to an online diagram would you or any suggestions for beefing this up when i rebuild it all your help is greatly appreciated thanks again,,don
You will have to use the latest Borg Warner sprag, roughen the outer race (most likely), and make sure the inner race is not worn and is "perfectly smooth" (600 grit or smoother to polish it). Look at the overrun hub and make sure the teeth are in good condition (not hammered). The inner race must be in near perfect condition, (yours will not be most likely). If this advice is followed, along with using Borg Warner clutches, you will have the best chance of the overrun assembly lasting.
Last edited by Pro Built Automatics; Sep 19, 2002 at 05:26 AM.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 1
From: California
Car: Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
i'll let the tranny experts handle the mechanical side of things, but i will chime in on the electrical side of things..
The ECM may be commanding the torque converter to unlock in decelleration. I don't know much about the TBI systems, but on 90-92 5.7 TPI systems, the computer unlocks the torque converter whenever you are decelerating, UNLESS you are above 75mph, in which case it stays locked. So if you are going down the highway at 70mph in OD, and let off the gas, the rpms will drop somewhat. If you have a higher stall converter, they drop even more.
rig yourself a test light or something so that you can observe the behavior of the TCC and see if it corresponds with anything. there is an article in the technical portion of thirdgen that describes how to do this i believe.
The ECM may be commanding the torque converter to unlock in decelleration. I don't know much about the TBI systems, but on 90-92 5.7 TPI systems, the computer unlocks the torque converter whenever you are decelerating, UNLESS you are above 75mph, in which case it stays locked. So if you are going down the highway at 70mph in OD, and let off the gas, the rpms will drop somewhat. If you have a higher stall converter, they drop even more.
rig yourself a test light or something so that you can observe the behavior of the TCC and see if it corresponds with anything. there is an article in the technical portion of thirdgen that describes how to do this i believe.
thanks for the input i believe i have read that you check pin# 15 on a test light (at the alda plug) as i had read that little bit of info on the web some where although i have the 5.0 i will give it a shot thanks,,now that you mentioned it i believe i changed out that ecm some miles back with a scrap yard interchange but because i only use this car when i am home temporarily and on the road nine months(wife is a traveling nurse) i really dont remember if this problem is related to that change out persay ,,i have only driven this car 4 months in the last 2 years lol ,,
thanks
don
thanks
don
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