Everything is hooked up except for the wiring....Im am not good at all with wiring anything up or reading scamatics...I need to wire my megashifter up to the relay that I bought from RS......I know alot of you guys have done it, can you help me out on this?

I can understand pretty much how to wire up the nuetral switch and backup lights...but I want to use the radio shack relay too and that I cant figure out...If I use the relay do I still use the relays on the shifter? Is it just matching up the color wire on the chart to the pin#?

The ones that get me are the dark blue and light green wires...do they connect to one plug on the relay and then from the other they connect to the Radio shack relay? So just piggy backing from one to the other?..

Im lost...and stupid when it comes to wiring...help!!!


thanks

 

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Thats the same relay I bought when I installed mine...I could never get that thing it work right. So I just junked that stupid relay and did without it. I can't even remember what it was for. I wish I could be of some help to you. I just know I haven't had any complaints doing without it.

 

The ECM uses input from the shifter to know whether the car is in P/N or 1,2,3,OD. When the car is in P/N the ECM will do certain things. Without that relay ... the ECM will not know. I wired mine up and it is working fine. I thought I remembered just following the B&M diagram.

Tim

 

Im not electricely inclined, Nor do I now how to read the scamatic above....Can someone somehow walk me thru it? Or maybe take a picture of what its suppose to look like once its hooked up?

Come on guys, help a brotha out!

thanks.

 

what if u ditched the computer? would that solve the problem. i want to add a megashifter to my new th350 i am getting andwant to do it.

 

On the radio shack relay if you look very closely; there are numbers there (very small mind you)that correspond with the wiring diagram. Match the coloured wires from the old harness to the numbers on the relay per the diagram and it will work

 

ok, that I can understand but what about the relays that come with the shifter? how do I hook it up to those and the Radio shack relay at the same time?

Look on the diagram, the "drk Blue and the Lt Green" wires are what confues me....look at the dark blu, its goes to both? ...


Im so confused...

 

Im at the office right now so ill be going on memory. Cut the dk blue wire;add another wire and connect all 3 ends together(cut wire 2 ends and new added wire) and now you have your splice off the dk blue to the switch

 

on the shifter relays, each relay has 2 connectors. is one a + and the other a - ? or it doesnt matter? cause those arent marked..

thanks man for all your help...

 

Now for the lt green. When you install the 2 supplied switches together on the shifter mounting spot; each swich has 2 prongs. the dk blue splice goes to one prong and the green to the other. The blue wire with its splice will go to both of the supplied swiches as indicated; the green goes to the other prong of supplied. Now for the rmaining prong of the other swich; add a wire and attach to the designated number on the radio shack switch.
I want to emphasize that when connected there may be a problem with backup lites staying on when not in reverse. This is because the swich needs adjustment. If you look closely at the relay switch supplied; there is a metal "finger" and this opens and closes the switch by pushing in or releasing the button on the switch. If the switch body is to close to the shifter; the metal finger will keep the button closed causing your b/up lites to stay on. There is some adjustment by loosening the tie down bolt but I ended up adjusting the finger itself(bending it) . The b/up lites are engaged normally when shifter is in reverse and this is done by the Bump on the shifter plate itself . This bump pushes the finger which inturn activates the sitch. You may or may not have to ajust. Hope this helps.

 

Now for the lt green. When you install the 2 supplied switches together on the shifter mounting spot; each swich has 2 prongs. the dk blue splice goes to one prong and the green to the other. The blue wire with its splice will go to both of the supplied swiches as indicated; the green goes to the other prong of supplied. Now for the rmaining prong of the other swich; add a wire and attach to the designated number on the radio shack switch.
I want to emphasize that when connected there may be a problem with backup lites staying on when not in reverse. This is because the swich needs adjustment. If you look closely at the relay switch supplied; there is a metal "finger" and this opens and closes the switch by pushing in or releasing the button on the switch. If the switch body is to close to the shifter; the metal finger will keep the button closed causing your b/up lites to stay on. There is some adjustment by loosening the tie down bolt but I ended up adjusting the finger itself(bending it) . The b/up lites are engaged normally when shifter is in reverse and this is done by the Bump on the shifter plate itself . This bump pushes the finger which inturn activates the sitch. You may or may not have to ajust. Hope this helps.

 

The sitches only stack one way. Make the top prongs IN TO THE SWITCH like the dk blue wires and the bottom prongs the other connections

 

Bill, thanks for all the info and helpin me wire the relays up...Everything works great hooked up. I got the shifter relays to work properly except for being able to start the car in reverse.....I think its cause the relay is not allowed to get in between the 2 dimples....and the reason for that is in the pic....

Can I undo the screw to this thing and adjust this? or will that mess up the shifting of all the gears?

When I get the relay switch in between the 2 dimples where its suppose to be when in reverse.

(PICTURE) is kinda caught in the the middle of the hump and if I was to go one way or the other that would make the "nuetral switch" click on....which in turn allows to be cranked...


I hope you can understand what Im trying to say...

thanks anywone for the help...

 

Yes I know exactly what you mean. Yes you have the right idea. Adjust the finger to allow v-groove to fall into ratchet gears of shifter. If when this is completed and it shifts okay you may have one problem when you test drive it. It is a common thing. You may not be able to use all gears. You have to go under the car and adjust the cable at the tranny on the lever .Its just a slide adjustment back and forth there and you have to find the right spot to have all gears engaging. Its just a loosen and tighten cable clamp thing and not a big process.I did a complete custom set up on my 1988 Formula 350. I go by this handle at the office(shhhh) and at home i go by MIDNITERIDER. I posted some help and went into detail how i set it up in "after market review"--B&Mmegashifter help-will it work 1/27/03. It was a total custom job. My friend will be taking pics with his digital this weekend and i will post pics at that site if you are interested.
Glad I could help.

 

Once again Bill thanks for the help.. That took care of the problem. I just didnt want to move that V-groove unless it was OK. I checked the gears after and went ahead and re-adjusted everything just to make sure....

I didnt remove my center console metal brace that the shifter backs into. I didnt want to make the console more flimsy.

Ive been reading that some people have had problems with the shifter mechanism hitting the the shifter plate when down shifting. When I look at it close it does look like the part that has the arrows pointing to it will hit once everything is put together.

My question is has anyone every grounded this down to keep it from hitting the shifter plate instead of moving the shifter back further which means I would have to remove that console metal brace which I dont want to do...

The picture is me pulling the shifter when down shifting showing the part that would hit...


thanks anyone.

 

I just read the whole thread and I have a headache, glad everything worked out fine----I'm going to lay down now.

 

atleast now Im not the only one...from this nON-User friendly install...

 

I didnt have this problem because of the custom setup but as a suggestion; why dont you elongate the holes on the shifter bracket itself to move it back where it bolts to the tunnel bracket hold downs.This way you avoid tampering with the shifter plate mechanisms.

 

This is what I dont want to remove cause it would make the center console more flimsy......so I figured I would grind that part of the shfiter mechanism so it wouldnt hit the shifter plate once everything is installed and put together.

whatcha think?

 

Looks different than what i had with the firebird but i meant the B&M shifter bracket holes themselves that bolt the rachet shifter down onto your tunnel.

 

I had to grind the piece so it wouldnt hit my new shifter plate. I didnt want to remove the console center brace and I could slide the shifter back far enough without reomving that brace. It should work out fine when i put it all back together tomorrow. I'll take some pic.