Clutch
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 857
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350HO
Transmission: M4
Clutch
F**K my camaro F**K it to bloody hell OMG the clutch is a bitch and a f'in half to change
get this, those who know clutchs well..
cause i don't
the pressure plate fingers on the very tip are like polished, like they rubbing or grinding on something( there is no clutch dust on them)
the presser plate surface is slighty grooved, and the flywheel is insanely grooved, like 1/8 deep almost!!!! i doubt it can be turned, but the clutch disk itself isn't all that bad, only a couple of the rivets are flush with the disk, its not that worn.
oh and the linkage is fine
the only other thing is, the rear main seal might be leaking, but im not sure,
so would what i just described be enough to cause a clutch to not even engage,
i have been noticing that the clutch was slippin for about 3 weeks, but it the last coupla days it got real bad, i ould be in 1st gear, and slam the gas, and the rpms would go to red line with out the car going anywhere,
and then it just got to the point where the i can put the car in gear, and let the clutch out, and it will idle
so is the problem a combination of the pressure plate, a slighty worn clutch and a really bad flywheel???
oh car is '82 Z28 4-speed saginaw
get this, those who know clutchs well..
cause i don't
the pressure plate fingers on the very tip are like polished, like they rubbing or grinding on something( there is no clutch dust on them)
the presser plate surface is slighty grooved, and the flywheel is insanely grooved, like 1/8 deep almost!!!! i doubt it can be turned, but the clutch disk itself isn't all that bad, only a couple of the rivets are flush with the disk, its not that worn.
oh and the linkage is fine
the only other thing is, the rear main seal might be leaking, but im not sure,
so would what i just described be enough to cause a clutch to not even engage,
i have been noticing that the clutch was slippin for about 3 weeks, but it the last coupla days it got real bad, i ould be in 1st gear, and slam the gas, and the rpms would go to red line with out the car going anywhere,
and then it just got to the point where the i can put the car in gear, and let the clutch out, and it will idle
so is the problem a combination of the pressure plate, a slighty worn clutch and a really bad flywheel???
oh car is '82 Z28 4-speed saginaw
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 4
From: Tallahassee, FL. USA
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Crate Motor
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73
Normal for the pressure plate diaphragm fingers to be shiny as they rub against the throwout bearing.
Sounds like your clutch is junk and probably the flywheel too.
The disk rivits should not be flush with the face material and yes, that's what cut the grooves in the flywheel.
If the flywheel's cut pretty deep, it'll be better to replace it than cut it real thin. With less material to shed heat, it'll warp when it gets hot.
Might as well do the throwout bearing and pilot as well.
As for the rear main seal, it's real easy to replace on the later one-piece seal blocks, but if yours is an earlier (two piece seal), it might require dropping the oil pan to replace.
-Rich-
Sounds like your clutch is junk and probably the flywheel too.
The disk rivits should not be flush with the face material and yes, that's what cut the grooves in the flywheel.
If the flywheel's cut pretty deep, it'll be better to replace it than cut it real thin. With less material to shed heat, it'll warp when it gets hot.
Might as well do the throwout bearing and pilot as well.
As for the rear main seal, it's real easy to replace on the later one-piece seal blocks, but if yours is an earlier (two piece seal), it might require dropping the oil pan to replace.
-Rich-
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Yeah, basically it's just worn completely, altogether, totally out. And yes, what you have described is exactly what will cause a clutch to slip so bad that it won't even pull the car. Everything you describe is completely normal, except that every part is completely worn out, nothing can be re-used.
Once a clutch wears to the point that it starts to slip, it doesn't last more than a few miles before it won't do anything at all. Slipping generates a tremendous amount of heat and even more wear, so it's a rapid downward spiral. It's like brakes: once you start noticing the slightest bit of trouble, stop driving the car and fix it!!!! You won't "save money" by continuing to drive it until the whole thing is ground to powder; for instance in this case, all that wear on the flywheel probably occurred after the clutch started slipping. It told you it was bad, you would have saved yourself some money by listening to it.
I can't think of many easier cars to put a clutch in. It's not that hard at all. You need another flywheel, and the clutch comes as a set, with a disk and pressure plate. Replace the pilot bearing (in the end of the crank) and the throwout bearing, and I'd recommend getting a new fork and a new rubber boot for it too; put it all back together right like that, and it should run for years without trouble.
Once a clutch wears to the point that it starts to slip, it doesn't last more than a few miles before it won't do anything at all. Slipping generates a tremendous amount of heat and even more wear, so it's a rapid downward spiral. It's like brakes: once you start noticing the slightest bit of trouble, stop driving the car and fix it!!!! You won't "save money" by continuing to drive it until the whole thing is ground to powder; for instance in this case, all that wear on the flywheel probably occurred after the clutch started slipping. It told you it was bad, you would have saved yourself some money by listening to it.
I can't think of many easier cars to put a clutch in. It's not that hard at all. You need another flywheel, and the clutch comes as a set, with a disk and pressure plate. Replace the pilot bearing (in the end of the crank) and the throwout bearing, and I'd recommend getting a new fork and a new rubber boot for it too; put it all back together right like that, and it should run for years without trouble.
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