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clutch hydrualics don't work when hot..

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Old Mar 17, 2003 | 08:23 PM
  #1  
89formula#1's Avatar
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From: Cinnaminson, NJ
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: Carbed 5.7
Transmission: TKO-600
clutch hydrualics don't work when hot..

hey guys i have been trying to figure out why my clutch doesn;t disengage when the car has been runnin for a while and i finally measured the throw on the slave cyl. when it was fine then took it out till it started messing up and came home and measured it and it was almost a 1/4 inch less travel. so i know for sure its the hydrualics that are bad. now can i get the master and slave from a v-6 car from the junkyard or only a v-8 car?? also would u think this is the slave or the master cyl.? the system doesn't leak externaly at all.
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Old Mar 17, 2003 | 09:03 PM
  #2  
1991tealRSt-topGuy's Avatar
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Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
cant really seperate the components so you really need to replace the whole setup

V6 or V8 wont matter, same difference

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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 12:44 AM
  #3  
Uncle Skeletor's Avatar
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From: Goldsboro, NC
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 350, Edelbrock Pro Flo efi
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 on a torsen diff
Try bleeding it out. If there's an air bubble, it will expand when it gets hot and things will not woirk properly. Also check to see if the heat shield is on the slave cylinder. No need to go swapping out the clutch linkage if it's not really bad, that stuff is a pain to get to.
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 02:01 PM
  #4  
89formula#1's Avatar
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From: Cinnaminson, NJ
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: Carbed 5.7
Transmission: TKO-600
the heat sheild is on it and it is blead as much as it can be. ok i heard the part number for the v-6 and v-8 hydrualics are different so wouldn't thta mean they are different parts?? also isn't the travel on the slave cyl. diff??
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 02:03 PM
  #5  
89formula#1's Avatar
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From: Cinnaminson, NJ
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: Carbed 5.7
Transmission: TKO-600
when i blead it it comes out pure fluid so thats blead all the way right??? also coudl i just crack the bleader so it drips out at a not to fast pace and just keep feeding it brake fluid from the top to blead it? cause my dads not here so there no1 to push the clutch in
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Old Mar 19, 2003 | 01:36 AM
  #6  
Uncle Skeletor's Avatar
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From: Goldsboro, NC
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 350, Edelbrock Pro Flo efi
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 on a torsen diff
If it's coming out pure fluid, then it ought to be OK...

also coudl i just crack the bleader so it drips out at a not to fast pace and just keep feeding it brake fluid from the top to blead it? cause my dads not here so there no1 to push the clutch in
I believe that's what is called gravity bleeding.... never done it that way myself... don't really know just how well it works.

I ususally close the bleeder, pump the pedal a couple few times, then use a stick to keep the pedal pushed down, go back and crack the bleeder a little bit. Lather, rinse, repeat. This is a pain, but it worked well for me.
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Old Mar 22, 2003 | 03:06 PM
  #7  
89formula#1's Avatar
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From: Cinnaminson, NJ
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: Carbed 5.7
Transmission: TKO-600
well guys the car is fixed and beter then ever, i went to the junk yard today and got a new slave, master, res. and the line off a v-6 car for 40 bucks. i came home ripped the old junk out bolted this is never added fluid or blead it and it works like a dream. the pedel is almost as easy to push in as a civic and the clutch grabs all the way up top cause i guess its worn out. but the thing goes rigth into gear and doesn;t grind at high rpm. man i have never had so much fun drivin my car lol. i actually coudl hear my tires chirp secound cause there was no grind. thanks for all the help guys but now its time to go geta shower, take off the t-tops and break it again lol
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