Sorry for the HELP thing... I need a good part # for the flywheel inspection cover /dust cover for my new-to-me T5...the one in my '92 rev GM catalog is discontinued.


Any help is greatly appreciated.




Well, I've been planning to swap in the WC T5 into my IROC for awhile now, and it looked like I was finally going to have some time to get it done...good thing, the supposedly rebuilt 700 started making cool tapping / knocking noises when warm, and started slipping when warm at the same time. Fluid looks / smells horrible. So I started on the swap this past Friday...


Some people say the pedal removal / install is easy, some hard, some so -so .... I'm guessing the guys who say it's easy are small people, or have small hands / fingers.


Got the pedals installed and the clutch master cylinder hooked up. OF course the next day it rained all day ( I started this swap outside since it was SUPPOSED to be nice all weekend ) and actually snowed some.


Do have one question...since I'm using some known good used hydraulics for right now, I ran into a cool little problem.

The master cylinder I'm using came from a 4th gen 6 speed car, and thus it had that little gray bushing inside the end of the pushrod ( where it slips on the stud on the clutch pedal ) that of course I found out is TOO SMALL to install on the 3rd gen pedal stud. So I look at the other master cylinder I have from a '91 Z ( where the pedals came from ) and it has a white bushing on it, with one side that has three little "prongs" that stick out a bit. I put this bushing into the other master and it slid right on...

HOWEVER...the "prongs" on the white bushing wouldn't fit on the pedal stud far enuff so I could install the metal clip that holds it all on. There is a groove in the pedal stud, and install one way, the prongs would slip into this groove, and everything looked fine ( prongs facing out towards the end of the stud on the pedal ) but there was NOT enuff room to install the metal clip on the end, which fits in that groove. Flipping the rod around the other way resulted in the prongs facing the other way, and again, keeping the clip from being able to fit on the end of the stud.

Finally, I just broke the 3 prongs off the bushing, so the bushing is still intact inside the rod, and the part that rests up against the bottom of the pedal stud is still there, but the just the prongs are gone. Then the metal clip installed fine, and it fits, and seems to function just fine this way.

From the look of it, the bushing / clip is just there to prevent metal on metal contact between the pushrod and the stud, so it's still doing it's job.

Anybody else ran into this? I could see the different design clutch pedals in 3rd gen's being the culprit, and maybe needing a different bushing, but the bushing I used was installed on the master that came with the pedals from the donor car...maybe the later models don't use that metal clip? The plastic prongs hold it in by sitting in the groove? No thanks..I like the metal clip.

And I COULD NOT find the "mystery" neutral safety switch plug that is taped up under everyone elses' dash The purple and yellow THICK Wires are only found at the plug at the Auto shifter. Because of time restraints, I'm just going to jump these two, so I can drive the car, and later I'll go back and make a harness to run to the switch on the clutch pedal, as I'll be going back in to run reverse lights anyway. Car needs to be on the road ASAP.

I was getting rained on at this point and it just got worse, so I barely got the booster installed and everything else straight under the hood.

Next is jacking the car up and yanking the automatic underbody lubricator ( aka the 700 ).

Inside, all is left is to drill out the spot welds on the bracket that holds the auto shifter, and then measure / cut the hole for the T5 shifter.

What about the power hatch release? I seem to remember someone mentioning you need to move the ground to the E-brake handle somewhere so it will work? Or does jumping the P/N switch serve the same purpose?

I also seem to have an UNUSED harness inside the console. It's not for the windows or hatch....everything that can be plugged up is....weird...

Updates and pics to come

 

the little prongs on the master cylinder rod lock into that grove there is no retaining clip, my 82 was a auotomatic and had the remote nuetral start wires, look on the harness down by the bulkhead connector (where it goes through the fire wall) thats where my wires were taped up, however I bought a harness from a crossfire injection car as well and these wires weren't present on that harness, but possibly because the crossfire never had a stick as a optional transmission