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tc question & cooler question

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Old Apr 15, 2003 | 08:21 PM
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JeffC1500TBI's Avatar
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
tc question & cooler question

ok I just received my tc & cooler. I've never had a tc out before or installed one.. I'm just wondering if it's suppose to have something that seems loose inside when it's new? feels like it moves side to side inside when i tilt it back and forth..

also the cooler according to tci they don't recommend using the high pressure hose with double clamps on the original factory lines.. yet they give you the rubber hose fittings and four clamps..

It would be much easier to install this way.. just wondering what everyone else thinks?

thanks
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Old Apr 15, 2003 | 08:26 PM
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fireturd350's Avatar
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
My cooler was installed by the shop (damn ac condenser) and it has 4 hose clamps and 2 pieces of hose... they put the hoses off the OEM hardlines and a clamp on each end then attached it to the cooler. (26k cooler from pro-built I bought with trannie) It's been doing fine for over a year now (though it goes into the garage in the winter).
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Old Apr 15, 2003 | 08:44 PM
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RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Yes there is a thing in there that will flop around; when you put it in, the trans input shaft goes into it and holds it still.

I hate the hose clamp method with the rubber lines, but unless you change the whole line out all the way back to the trans, there's not much else you can do.... use the "fuel injection style" hose clamps, might work a little better; and use power steering return hose NOT FUEL LINE, that will last far longer.
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Old Apr 15, 2003 | 09:13 PM
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JeffC1500TBI's Avatar
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actually I have some unions that I was going to use to add on to the existing and I have some 5/16" steel line .. I'd just have to find #6an fittings to go into the cooler..

also what do you gusy recommend.. cooler only or going through the internal rad first then ext cooler?

the cooler is the largest they make 26k gvw.
thanks again..

also on the 700r4(at tranny) is the lower line the feed out?(hot fluid)?

and is it necessary to drain the fluid from the tranny b4 changing the torque?? the fluid that's in there only has about 5k kms on it. also the instrutions say to leave it 1 quart low? when on level surface.. is that because the cooler holds a quart?

Last edited by JeffC1500TBI; Apr 15, 2003 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2003 | 09:31 PM
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fireturd350's Avatar
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
You could run it through the rad first but I decided against it. I was told that method is used so the antifreeze can warm up the trannie fluid under cold conditions (I don't drive in winter so not a problem for me). It also makes swapping a rad. a lot easier when you don't have to worry about taking out your trannie lines and pluging them for a new radiator. I would say just skip the radiator part all together the 26k should be good enough and down the road you might want to switch to an alum. radiator which might not have that feature (griffin 180 buck alum 31x19 universal model).
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Old Apr 16, 2003 | 07:24 AM
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JeffC1500TBI's Avatar
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actually my rad is aluminum and so is the tranny cooler!
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Old Apr 16, 2003 | 11:13 AM
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fireturd350's Avatar
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
I still say just run it through the cooler itself. Unless you need the fluid heating up the antifreeze or vice versa due to cold temp. driving. I know my 2400 lockup 9.5 ACT stall and pro-built 700-r4 gets to 130+ degrees within about 10 miles drive from start up in the morning.
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