New clutch won't release
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New clutch won't release
I have installed a new Weber diaphragm clutch in my '91 305 Z/28.(t5 tranny.) On installation, I installed a new pilot bushing, installed the new throwout fork in the proper location on the throwout bearing, and used a pilot tool to center the clutch. After starting the car after installation, the clutch does not completely disengage. I have not measured the exact amount of travel on the actuation point on the t. o. fork. The pedal does not feel spongy, and the fluid level is full on the reservoir. This clutch setup is a slightly higher pressure unit than stock, and the pedal feels slightly stiffer. I contacted the speed shop owner that sold me the clutch, and he said it is possible that there may be leakage past the piston, or possibly line expansion due to the increased pressure. Does anyone have experience with a heavier duty hydraulic setup or any other ideas? Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Bill
Cheers,
Bill
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 796
Likes: 0
From: Derbyshire, United Kingdom
Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Hi Bill.
May have a few ideas here to try before things get torn down. is the clutch not clearing or is there other issues?
There is a possibility that the pilot bush is tight on the input shaft and causing it to drag the shaft round when the clutch is pressed down. KEEP ENGINE OFF FOR THIS TEST. Jack one rear wheel up, put it into first, get an assistant to press the clutch right down. Handbrake off. Get a long breaker bar. Put it on one of the wheel lug nuts and try to turn the wheel. If the pilot is holding the shaft, it should still be possible to turn the wheel. Since there are no other noises from the car, it should be possible to hear the input shaft turning inside the pilot. If the clutch pedal is then brought up slowly as the rear wheel is turned, you should then start to hear the friction plate rubbing, and the wheel should get harder and harder to turn. This test will prove if the friction plate is clearing or not.
If the pilot is sticking on the shaft, it is possible to get it worn in pretty quick. Put car into first, chock the wheels so it can't move, press clutch down, press brake pedal and start it up. The input shaft will be stationary, and the flywheel will be turning around it. A few seconds of this and it should be sorted.
If the clutch plate is dragging, we are into measuring clutch fork throw and possible incorrect clutch components.
Hope this helps.
Andy.
May have a few ideas here to try before things get torn down. is the clutch not clearing or is there other issues?
There is a possibility that the pilot bush is tight on the input shaft and causing it to drag the shaft round when the clutch is pressed down. KEEP ENGINE OFF FOR THIS TEST. Jack one rear wheel up, put it into first, get an assistant to press the clutch right down. Handbrake off. Get a long breaker bar. Put it on one of the wheel lug nuts and try to turn the wheel. If the pilot is holding the shaft, it should still be possible to turn the wheel. Since there are no other noises from the car, it should be possible to hear the input shaft turning inside the pilot. If the clutch pedal is then brought up slowly as the rear wheel is turned, you should then start to hear the friction plate rubbing, and the wheel should get harder and harder to turn. This test will prove if the friction plate is clearing or not.
If the pilot is sticking on the shaft, it is possible to get it worn in pretty quick. Put car into first, chock the wheels so it can't move, press clutch down, press brake pedal and start it up. The input shaft will be stationary, and the flywheel will be turning around it. A few seconds of this and it should be sorted.
If the clutch plate is dragging, we are into measuring clutch fork throw and possible incorrect clutch components.
Hope this helps.
Andy.
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