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Detailed info needed! Vigilante 2600 Vs. Vigilante 2800

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Old May 16, 2003 | 02:24 PM
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Detailed info needed! Vigilante 2600 Vs. Vigilante 2800

Well Monday I will have the cash in hand to buy the last part of my buildup, a new Vigilante converter. I am really sweating this purchase as I want the right product the first time. I have talked to several Vig dealers along with Terry at Vig. So far I have been recomended both the the 2600-2800rpm unit and the 2800-3000pm unit. The below part numbers were referenced.

VIG-259415 Vigilante 2600 RPM stall converter(w/lockup)
Know as the 2600-2800rpm unit.

VIG-259015 Vigilante 2800 RPM stall converter(w/lockup)
Know as the 2800-3000rpm unit.

My motor will be making MASSIVE TORQUE! At the track I will be running 27 inch ET Streets with a 3.73 gear. My shifting will occur around 5800rpm give or take a little. My motor specs are below.

I would like to hear from the pros along with those who have run either of these Vig units. For those who have run them can you list what it actually stalled to, what it flashed to, and wht the shift recovery rpm is. Thanks in advance to all!

10.25:1 383, zero decked and all the good machine work to match
Massively ported Superram plenum and runners
Massively ported SDPC base
Massively ported E-Tec 170 heads, probably up to 180-185cc now
Comp 224/230 .536/.544@1.6 rockers
Will be custom EEPROMed, aftermarket suspension, built trans, and all the other support systems to match.
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Old May 16, 2003 | 02:58 PM
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From: west coast
they recommended 2600 for my combo

Tim (Traxion, spelling correction??) bought the 2800 he had it change to 3600, he said it was still real streetable. Do a search, you will find allot of info with theses TQ,
I think they are the best TQ period!
IM me your road feelings when you get it installed love to hear about your reaction
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Old May 16, 2003 | 03:25 PM
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From: Mesa, AZ: Transplanted from Chicago, IL
I have read every post with vig, vigi, and vigilante in it.

Right now I am looking for opinions.
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Old May 16, 2003 | 03:54 PM
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I'd go with the 3000 stall one.
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Old May 16, 2003 | 04:30 PM
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Acceld Z's Avatar
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From: Kemptville, Ontario, Canada
Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
I'd say get the 2600 one or you'll have some serious problems hooking up. Hell, you're allready gonna have traction problems. My Vigi 2600 flashes to at least 2800, so........

And as for the whole "streetability" thing.........forget it. You won't even know it's there unless you nail it. That goes for a 2600 or 3000. Buying that converter was one of the best, if not the best thing I did to my car.
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Old May 17, 2003 | 02:03 AM
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From: Mesa, AZ: Transplanted from Chicago, IL
Jester

How and why exactly might I benefit from the 3000rpm unit? I am really looking for some techincal advice in your opinion.

Acceld Z

What is the combo you have pushing your 2600 and what gear?

I guess my main question is that since I will have so much troque down low is getting a high stall wasting it? But at the same 27 inch slicks will need some rpm to get rolling although the 3.73s will help.

Thanks guys.
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Old May 17, 2003 | 09:43 AM
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
We need more detailed in order to help you. How much torque do you currently have and at what RPM does it peak? I have a 2800 stall on my 305 so Iam guessing 2800 will be way too low for you. If you are looking to keep it streetable I would go with a converter that is 600 RPM below your torque peak with a 2.2 STR. If you are racing at the track a lot I would go 200 below peak with a 1.8-2.0 STR.
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Old May 17, 2003 | 11:01 AM
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From: Mesa, AZ: Transplanted from Chicago, IL
jfreeman74

Thats part of the issue, I dont have any numbers as the whole car has been rebuilt over the past 6 months.

The only numbers that I can refernce are those that are already posted by others who are running similiar 383 Superram combos.
Typically they run a 3.23-3.42 gear with a 26 inch slick and a 2800-3000 stall. Again I will have a 3.73 with 27 inch slick so my overall gearing will will be slightly more agressive.

Would anyone know the answer to this question?
What is the general rule of thumb, the taller the gear the less stall that is needed or visa versa given that the engine remains the same?

Thanks
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Old May 17, 2003 | 04:46 PM
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
With the 3.73 you would want a looser converter. The 3.73's would tighten the converter up so go loose. If you are basing off what others are running with the same setup and without dyno numbers it would be pretty difficult to guess at what stall would be best but with that said, guessing is what we'll have to do. I would say 3200-3400 stall would be a good converter for your setup.
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Old May 17, 2003 | 08:39 PM
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From: St. Augustine, FL
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 383
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt-3.73
Stop playing around. If you want to go fast with your combo, get the vig 3200, it will stall around 35-3600. I have the 3500 yank, and I could never hook up with drag radials. I ran 110 mph in the quarter spinning all the way thru first gear. The vig 3200 is supposed to be one of the best street convertors out there. Remember, a convertor also affects your recovery point after the car shifts, so don't concentrate on starting line manners only.
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Old May 17, 2003 | 11:02 PM
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Acceld Z's Avatar
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From: Kemptville, Ontario, Canada
Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
My combo can be seen in the link in my sig. My best was a 13.5@109 with a 2.4 60' time. I have traction issues. I can just imagine what you'll encounter. I can't drive though so you may have an advantage there. IMHO, the best choice would be the 2600-2800. It will probably flash well above that with your engine.

As food for thought........Buckeyeroc(?) ran a 12.4@109 with a 2200rpm Vigilante and a 3.42. I think he also cut a 1.7 60' time. Would his car be quicker with a 3000rpm stall?
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Old May 18, 2003 | 01:06 AM
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
If I were you I wouldn't waste my money on a Yank. They are good converters but they are overkill unless you are building a straightup racecar and they are way overpriced. A Midwest will give you the same if not better results(because they custom build them to your needs) for half the price.
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Old May 18, 2003 | 01:25 AM
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
It there's anyone dead set on a Yank3000, a buddy of mine is pulling his out and puting in a Midwest 3600 in a week or two. He is looking to sell it for $450. Thats about $250 less than Yank sells it for. It only has about 5000 miles on it.
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Old May 19, 2003 | 01:47 AM
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From: Mesa, AZ: Transplanted from Chicago, IL
Well the time to buy is upon me and I have made my choice:

VIG-259015 Vigilante 2800 RPM stall converter(w/lockup)
Know as the 2800-3000rpm unit.

I have a feeling I will be flashing this converter past 3000rpm easily.

Once the car is completed with proper tuning and slicks in place I am expecting nothing less than the following: 1.65 60s and 112mph hovering around a 12.0et. Ill be sure to dig this thread up in a couple of months and let ya all know.
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Old May 19, 2003 | 02:59 AM
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From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
my blown 355 would push my 2400 stall vig all the way to 2900 from a dead stop with 2.77 gears. with 3.73s it now only hits 2500-2600. the gears did wonder for the 60' though...
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