10 bolt disaster
10 bolt disaster
Axle replacement (in a 10 bolt) is supposed to be easy, right? Anyone have an idea on what to do when the 5/16 axle shaft lock bolt breaks? It broke right at the end of the threads, so all that is left in there is the straight pin portion of the bolt. Here's the mickey mouse things I've already tried to get it out, with no success. 1. I tried driving the big pin out with no luck, there is enough of the small pin left in there that it is still doing its job. 2. Put super glue on what was left of bolt, screwed it in, let it dry hoping it would bite on, but no. 3. Magnet, nope it is in there tight. That piece of crap thing is still in there. Its too tight of an area to get a drill in there. I'm open for ideas. I have a bent axle so it has to come apart. Is it time to start hitting the local junkyards for an F-body rearend? I'm going to have a professional mechanic check it out and also check prices of used rear ends, but if this has happened to someone, please advise.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
It happens all the time.
Easiest thing to do is to cut the pin, with a red wrench if necessary, so that you can get the axles out, so you can get the carrier out, so you can drill it and all that. A new cross shaft is about $10, easily sacrifced in the interest of the greater good.
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com...=28&cat=GM+7.5
Easiest thing to do is to cut the pin, with a red wrench if necessary, so that you can get the axles out, so you can get the carrier out, so you can drill it and all that. A new cross shaft is about $10, easily sacrifced in the interest of the greater good.
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com...=28&cat=GM+7.5
I was hoping you (RP83) would reply to that. You are the 10 bolt master. Anyway, I'm having a little difficulty following your advice, please see below, I put in () my questions.
Easiest thing to do is to cut the pin(which pin, the big one that runs through the carrier? How do I do that?!?!), with a red wrench (what's a red wrench? Where can I get one?) if necessary, so that you can get the axles out, so you can get the carrier out, so you can drill it and all that. A new cross shaft is about $10, easily sacrifced in the interest of the greater good.
To get the carrier out, am I going to remove the four bolts(2 on either side of carrier)? Is there some expertise that is needed in getting the carrier in/out? Sorry I'm so full of questions.
Easiest thing to do is to cut the pin(which pin, the big one that runs through the carrier? How do I do that?!?!), with a red wrench (what's a red wrench? Where can I get one?) if necessary, so that you can get the axles out, so you can get the carrier out, so you can drill it and all that. A new cross shaft is about $10, easily sacrifced in the interest of the greater good.
To get the carrier out, am I going to remove the four bolts(2 on either side of carrier)? Is there some expertise that is needed in getting the carrier in/out? Sorry I'm so full of questions.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 3
From: NE
Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Red wrench(gas wrench)(torch). If you end up screwing up the carrier, open carriers(assuming you don't have posi) are cheap from the junkyard--or it's a good excuse to upgrade to some type of posi. Pulling the carrier is pretty easy. You will have shims on each side, they need to return to the same side when you put it back together. You have run into the common automotive problem--it always starts out a 'simple' job....
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Yup, that's a torch.
Also correct, the 4 bolts beside the carrier are all you have to take out to remove the carrier. Make absolutely certain you keep the shims and the end caps organized so you can put them back where they came from. Shims go with the housing, not the carrier, so you should be able to re-use the existing shims in your housing, even if you end up having to get another carrier.
I don't think of myself as the 10-bolt master..... more like the 10-bolt slave (that's "slave" with a capital B). But thanks for the compliment anyway!
Also correct, the 4 bolts beside the carrier are all you have to take out to remove the carrier. Make absolutely certain you keep the shims and the end caps organized so you can put them back where they came from. Shims go with the housing, not the carrier, so you should be able to re-use the existing shims in your housing, even if you end up having to get another carrier.
I don't think of myself as the 10-bolt master..... more like the 10-bolt slave (that's "slave" with a capital B). But thanks for the compliment anyway!
Well, looks like I'm going to have to call in a favor because I don't have a torch, nor have I used one. Thanks for the replies, I now have some hope that I haven't lost the entire rear to one little piece of metal. If anyone lives and KC, has a torch, and wants to earn a little money, let me know.
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