Ok, my car just had an engine swap done on it, went from a stock LG4 Carbed to a L98 Carbed (Swaped the TPI off and put an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake on as well as a new carb) and my question is, now that I've done this, how exactly will I lockup my T/C. I saw the article for the T/C Lockup switch, and I plan on wiring that up when I head up there 2morrow and pick it up. But when do I engage it? And what happens when the converter doesn't lock up?

Just some stuff I wanted to get straight before I head up there and do it

Thanks in advance!
Adam

 

Anybody? I hope somebody knows

 

yeah I know something, but it's more along the lines of
is what I know 100% agreeable on by the others on the
board.

It seems everyone here is to ask questions, with the rate
of them being answered, slim to none.

The torque convertor works as a torque multiplier, I assume
you know the basics of how it works, and how a lockup
works, if not, google.com and the search button here is
your best friend.

anytime you're racing, you engage the lockup AFTER a shift, and
DISengage it BEFORE the next shift, this should be done to
minimise the shock to the transmission. the idea here is that
you create the 1:1 ratio for the input and output shafts on
the transmission, since there's plenty of 'slip' in the convertor
this should improve off-the-line performance, efficency, etc etc.

it's important, iirc, that you do not have the convertor in lockup
when it shifts. it would have the same effect as trying to shift
a manual transmission without using the clutch, possible, but
the potential for damage is high if not done very precisely. since
there's no real delay between an auto tranny's attempt to shift
you can't really rev match (which is required when you don't
use a clutch, or a crashbox tranny; tranny with no synchros)
an automatic transmission.

so as a general rule, if you must use lockup, your results
may vary, some people report getting better E/T's and MPH's
out of drag races. but I wouldn't reccomend using lockup manually
every day if it's your daily driver, just sanity there. let the computer
do it's job, sometimes it can do it alot better than we can.


for your second question, when the converter doesn't
lock up, it acts like a non-lockup converter. of course you have
more drivetrain power losses because the TC isn't exactly
a 1:1 mechanism (in unlocked mode) but it's also a torque
multiplier, and as far as I can understand, it just may improve
your low end, if anything, it'll make you damn consistant.

also here's a situation, if you're staged, and the tree drops to
green and you immediately engage lockup without getting it
rolling and giving it gas first, it's just like dropping the clutch
on a stick shift, guess what? STALL. Get the car moving before
you flip the lockup switch.

 

Give this a try this is how I am running mine. It works great and it if FREE!!

http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/lockup1.htm

 

hmm I need to wire mine up because I no longer have the computer to lock it up. I think Im just gonna get the wiring kit from painless wiring or b&m.

I want it to help with power and to get better milage in 4th gear.

 

That dose make it work without the computer it will auto lock in 4th gear only.