how strong do you think this 10 bolt is?
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Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 938
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From: Hinesville, GA USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
how strong do you think this 10 bolt is?
'95 Camaro z28 rear case (hey, it's all I can afford right now)
welded axle tubes
moser axleshafts
Torsen HD differential
ARP ring gear bolts
girdle cover with preload studs
ratech pinion spacer
GM/Motive 3.73 gearset
1350 pinion yoke
floating on a set of 295/35/zr18 widespoke c5 wheels
all clearances set tight
Assuming I never bolt drag slicks on it, how long do you think it'll live? I was thinking of putting it under my '94 when I was able to afford a 12 bolt, but it'll have to do for now.
Engine:
383 stroker, Gen I TPI based (DFI), 3.8" crank, 6.0 rods and 4.00" pistons w/.004" deck, all forged/lightweight, 11.5:1 compression
cc306 hydraulic roller cam and true roller chain
comp 'R' roller lifters and AFR hydra-rev kit
LT1 intake w/30# injectors
AFR 190 aluminum heads, mildly pocket ported
hedman LT headers and borla catback, wide open
200 HP shot N20, wet single stage
shooting for 520 HP on motor
rest of the drivetrain is a T-56 with Spec stg. III ceramic clutch and a carbon fiber driveshaft(when I can afford it) with 1350 joints.
Any forecasts? I kinda fell into it after realizing I spent all my money in the drivetrain and suspension...which is setup for corners. No slicks, just street meat. I figured I'd break the tires loose before I broke any internal parts. Anyone?
welded axle tubes
moser axleshafts
Torsen HD differential
ARP ring gear bolts
girdle cover with preload studs
ratech pinion spacer
GM/Motive 3.73 gearset
1350 pinion yoke
floating on a set of 295/35/zr18 widespoke c5 wheels
all clearances set tight
Assuming I never bolt drag slicks on it, how long do you think it'll live? I was thinking of putting it under my '94 when I was able to afford a 12 bolt, but it'll have to do for now.
Engine:
383 stroker, Gen I TPI based (DFI), 3.8" crank, 6.0 rods and 4.00" pistons w/.004" deck, all forged/lightweight, 11.5:1 compression
cc306 hydraulic roller cam and true roller chain
comp 'R' roller lifters and AFR hydra-rev kit
LT1 intake w/30# injectors
AFR 190 aluminum heads, mildly pocket ported
hedman LT headers and borla catback, wide open
200 HP shot N20, wet single stage
shooting for 520 HP on motor
rest of the drivetrain is a T-56 with Spec stg. III ceramic clutch and a carbon fiber driveshaft(when I can afford it) with 1350 joints.
Any forecasts? I kinda fell into it after realizing I spent all my money in the drivetrain and suspension...which is setup for corners. No slicks, just street meat. I figured I'd break the tires loose before I broke any internal parts. Anyone?
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: norfolk va
Car: 84 T/A
Engine: 355
Transmission: t5
as long as you dont beat the **** out of it (constant burnouts doughnuts u know abuse like that) it should last a long time as long as u stick 2 what u said no slicks
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 938
Likes: 1
From: Hinesville, GA USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
Dont plan on it!
That's what I thought. There are no drags around here and I'm running low on project money. I figured it would hold up, with the tires breaking loose than the rear breaking.
That's what I thought. There are no drags around here and I'm running low on project money. I figured it would hold up, with the tires breaking loose than the rear breaking.
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