Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

Newbie seeking Tranny info....

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Old Dec 20, 2003 | 03:53 AM
  #1  
Pearl Jammzz's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 130
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Car: 89' RS
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Newbie seeking Tranny info....

Hey, I am new to this whole car world thing (just got my first car at the end of may) and I am looking to learn more about em, specifically trannys. Anyone have any general information on transmission? Different kinds? various parts? how exactly it works? what kind of parts are best? etc.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys.
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Old Dec 20, 2003 | 05:28 AM
  #2  
D Stroy H8's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Car: 1990 Iroc-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
I can tell you a few things without being wrong

A manual is will use less horsepower & torque than an automatic. It will also allow you better gas mileage if used right on the street. Plus - they are more fun to race because they take more attention/coordination due to clutch action & shifting. T5's are most popular (cheap 5 speed), and T56's are desireable (expensive 6 speed - GREAT gas mileage)

An automatic gets a bad rap tho, because they can be built to be very good transmissions & you can even set them up to shift yourself (no clutch tho). More is required to build them up, but when done right an automatic with a good torque converter is a great way to manage an engine. Most popular ones around here are 700R4s and Th400s: 4 speeds. Th350s also but to a lesser degree: 3 speed.


That should start you off. Now go to the library and read about ten books on the subject and you should be good to go.


Last edited by D Stroy H8; Dec 20, 2003 at 05:30 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2003 | 08:50 AM
  #3  
TKOPerformance's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,391
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
I've always found that the best way to learn about stuff is to rip it apart. Most manual transmissions are fairly easy to rebuild, because all they have are bearings and synchros that need to be replaced if there is no damage to gears or shafts.

Automatics are a lot more complicated becasue they employ a pump, clutch packs, and bands. Though they aren't as mysterious as a lot of people think. Basically an automatic relies on fluid pressure and fluid shear to accomplish the same thing as a manual trans with a clutch.

Pick up a copy of HP books guide to rebuilding GM automatics. It covers the TH350, TH400, 2004R, 700R4, and a lot of other lesser known transmissions. It does a good job of explaining how an automatic trans works, as well as walking you step by step through the rebuilding process.

The best source for info on manual transmissions can be had directly from Tremec (makers of the T5 and T56). There is a detailed service/rebuild manual for both transmissions available from Tremec parts dealers like Hanlon Motorsports or D&D Performance.

Read, read, read. That's the best way to take in a lot of information. Books are great, but don't overlook magazines too. Car Craft, Hot Rod, and a lot of others have great "How To" articles, as well as articles about how things work. Don't restrict yourself to Chevrolet only stuff either. A lot of automotive information is universal, and every automaker had at least a few good ideas, some of which can be applied to all makes an models. I read on average about three magazines a month of various publications, and constantly scan the bookstore shelves for new books about automotive tech. I've been involved in this hobby almost from birth. I'm 25 now, and I learn new things about cars every single day. Anyone who thinks they know all there is to know is either lying to you or selling something.

If you have any more questions feel free to post, or PM me. Welcome to the hobby!
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Old Dec 20, 2003 | 04:12 PM
  #4  
Pearl Jammzz's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 130
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Car: 89' RS
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
thanks guys, sum more qwuestions though.

If I wanted all-wheel drive, then you would need an AWD tranny correct?

What do those numbers mean? the 700R4's, TH400's, etc.

What kind of material is best for the internals? Basically how can you tell if it's a quality transmission or not.

thanks again, later.
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Old Dec 20, 2003 | 05:05 PM
  #5  
hydric's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 603
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From: Ohio
Car: 1985 Iroc-z
Engine: 355 sbc
Transmission: 700r4
you'll need more than a fancy tranny to have an all wheel drive car... and thats for sure.

no way u can tell whether a tranny is stock or built by just looking at it. the numbers TH 400 (th means turbo, turbo 400 and turbo 350's are popular 3gen trannies) and 700r4 are actually trannies (chevy trannies)

the 700r4 has an overdrive gear, making it better on gas, etc.

there are all kinds of rebuild kits/things u can do to make these trannies shift better...

and another data fact i didnt read on here about autos is sure theres no clutch, but theres stalls u can get... allowing u to rev up before the tranny will actually grab the gear n take off...

of course theres a crapload of other things to worry about when your setting up a car for speed, rear end gears, so on so on..

READ!
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Old Dec 20, 2003 | 06:53 PM
  #6  
TKOPerformance's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 1
From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Most AWD systems, like the one used in my Subaru WRX have another differential incorporated into the transmission with CV shafts running to the front wheels. The engine actually overhangs the front axel centerline. This would be impossible in a Camaro, because of the longer V8 engine, plus the front end weight bias would make the handling downright dangerous.

Some AWD systems use a center differential or transfer case and a seperate front axel tucked under the engine like a 4X4 truck, but again space constraints would make this impossible in the Camaro.

The TH stands for Turbo Hydramatic, as mentioned. The numbers other than 350 and 400 are sort of meaningless. Originally the 350 was used with engines of 350 cubic inches or less, and the 400 was used with engines of 400 cubic inches or less. At least that's the legend. I've also heard that the figures stood for torque or horsepower ratings. However you could get a 350 engine backed by a TH400 trans in certain cars and trucks, so go figure. Basically the 350 is a lighter duty trans and the 400 is a heavy duty unit. The 700R4 is basically a TH350 with an overdrive gear, and the beefy 4L80E is like an electronic TH400 with overdrive. The L stands for longitudal engine placement (T is used in front wheel drive applications where the engine is transverse), and the E stands for electronic controlled shifting.

There are no external clues about what is inside a transmission, unless it has a transbrake, and then there will be a solenoid mounted somewhere for this feature.

Torque converter stall speed, or the speed at which the converter is essentially acting like a direct link between the engine and transmission with no slipage, can be tailored to make a car faster. Stock converters stall around 1,800 RPM max. Aftermarket converters can go as high as 5,500 or more. This allows the car to leave the line in a drag race making peak power, in essence acting like you dumped the clutch at 5,500 in a stick car. There is a trade off though, because higher stall converters slip a lot, and create a lot more heat, which can destroy a trans. 3,500 RPM stall is about all a street car will tolerate. Of course just adding a higher stall converter to an otherwise stock car can increase performance to a point, after which the car is nearly undriveable and is slower than it would be stock. About 2,200 is all the increase in stall a stock 3rd gen car needs. If you change the rear gears, cam, heads, intake, and exhaust then they skys the limit.

There isn't much material selection for automatics beyond stock. Certain components like input shafts and sun shells can be found from aftermarket sources that use stronger alloys, and the frictions and steels can be replaced, buth most of the guts are still stock, even in a modified street/strip transmission.

The best indicator of a transmissions condition is the fluid. If there is metal on the dipstick, or if the fluid smells burnt stay away. The trans is most likely spent.
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