Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

tranny swap

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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 01:21 AM
  #1  
AFcamaro's Avatar
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tranny swap

I have a 1985 z-28 with a bad 700r4 tranny, i also have a 1990rs with a t-5 that has been recently rebuilt. I have read the tech article explaining how to do the swap but was wondering if it would be easier to use a manual linkage instead of the hydrolyic one in the 90. although i do have all the parts in that i should need for the hydrolic linkage, was wondering how hard it would be to incorperate that into the 85. also i heard that if i were to use the manual linkage i would have to get a different case for the t-5 tranny. If anyone has any suggestions on which would be the easiest and most cost effective.
thanks
john
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 02:27 AM
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TKOPerformance's Avatar
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Hydraulic. It's a sealed system, so you only really have to bolt on 1 part. The firewall pad will have cutouts for the clutch pushrod. You can use them as a template to cut the holes in the firewall. Everything else just bolts right in.

By far the hardest part is the pedal swap. You'll have to pull the column and the brake booster, plus a lot of the dash. It isn't hard, it's just time consuming.
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 02:47 AM
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AFcamaro's Avatar
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sooo

so it shouldnt be that bad. are there any advantages or disadvantages to hydraulic as opposed to manual linkage?
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 08:48 AM
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TKOPerformance's Avatar
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Hyrdaulic linkages are more powerful. Even when running a high-effort clutch it is nearly indistinguishable from a stock clutch as far as pedal effort goes. Hydraulic linkages are self-adjusting, so there's nothing the mess with until the clutch needs to be replaced. Hydraulics are simpler (sealed system).

The mechanical linkage offers better "feel" in my opinion. There is a very clear engagement point that can be felt right through the pedal. You will have to adjust a mechanical linkage a few times over the life of the clutch, though. Mechanical linkages are more complex, with several parts instead of the packaged simplicity of hydraulic.
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