has anyone else here done it yet? pictures? tips?

i have a junk 10bolt and im looking for a good 9" now... im going to use the 10 bolt to help me tell where everythign should be, then cut off the brackets, mod them if needed for axle tube size, and then weld the brackets on the axle...

hardest part will probly be making the TQ arm mount... i'll probly swap to a adjustible TQ arm so that i can fine tune the pinion angle.


anyone else done this? im tryin to avoid unforseen problems. new engine is going to tear up this 10bolt rather quick lol...

 

you could see if moser will sell you the bolt on tq arm mount that they use on their rears.

 

torque arm mount wouldn't be hard to make, but it'd be easier to buy. moser sells them i believe. i'd build a fixture around the 10 bolt to locate all the brackets off of. either buy or build a fixture to hold the tubes square if you're going to shorten them. it really wouldn't be that hard to do if you had a little bit of skill, time, and equipment to do it with.

 

The biggest thing will be keeping the brackets aligned with the same pinion realtionship on the 9" as they had on the 10-bolt. Provided that you can weld it really shouldn't be all that hard. Remember to build more heat in the tube than in the bracket, because the material is thicker and will need to be hotter to achieve good penetration.

The torque arm mount shouldn't be that hard to make, but if you can just buy one it's definately easier. If you do decide to build your own, check out how it's done on Moser, Currie, or other rears to get an idea of how to proceeed.

 

i plan on going this route also. theres no way in hell im paying what moser or currie wants for a bolt in unit..

check out his site.... http://malibunorth.freeservers.com/Ford_9.htm

it gives plenty of good pics on how to build a jig to hold the rear and locate the brackets.

there is also another page on his site showing how to shorten a 9".

 

Or you could just buy their new housing and axle package for $800 and then get a bolt in center section used....

 

yea, im going to make one very similar to Moser's design... doesnt look to hard.. i know someone that will let me use their mill too..

i'll buy one if its cheap enough, but thoes guys like to overcharge(IMO)


hey, thanks for the link

$800 vs less then $300 + my time..... hehe, i'll try my own first... worse that can happen is it breaks at the wrong time and i crash horribly to my death.

 

This is a quote I got from quickperformance.com for my rear end. Ford 9" bolt in housing Moser 35 spline axles then the rest of the stuff is below also....



The housing and Axles are 895.00 Plus ft. and if need 5/8 drag studs add 65.00. Are disk set up with no park Brake is 200.00 and if want willwood are 400.00 plus Ft. Line Kit runs 75.00 that includes all the fittings.

 

I've done a few rear end conversions by building a fixture like that, worked great. Saved tons of money. I'm going to do one for my 3rd gen, I have some nice 1" tubing that has the exact inside diameter for a 3/4"tap, that makes things real easy. You know I'll post pictures.

 

cool...

i have to wait until i move before i can finish my rear... im moving back to texas, and i located a 9" near there... i just have to go get it and unpack all my stuff..

this should be fun.

 

I'm all for home fabricating stuff on my car,but for $800 for a Moser axle it just isn't worth the hassle.I'm sure only Currie's sell a torque arm bracket which will add $100+ to the cost.Also the Moser package comes with custom axles rated to 800hp.They also take out the old axle tubes and put in bigger stronger pieces.To do that part alone needs a seriously accurate jig.What about having it narrowed? I really do salute anyone who has a go and after all the other stuff we fabricated I was all for it,but it really is easier to give Moser a call

 

I really get my moneys worth out my old lathe. I made some bushings that fit in the diff bearing holders in the rear, then I have the shaft from a hydraulic cylinder that slides through the bushings and I use it to make sure the tubes are aligned.

I put a 9" from a pickup n my Jeep, I used the short axle on the long side and sent the long axle to moser to get shortend and resplined for $75. I've resplined axles on my lathe but it takes all day to do one axle. SoI send them to moser now.

I see the axles in the stock rear are 28 spline, i wonder if they would fit a 28 spline ford rear? I'd have to get C clip eliminators, does anyone make C clip eliminators for an 89 iroc rear with disk brakes?

 

Does it matter which rear end you start with?

Is there one that is close enough in length that you don't have to do a lot of trimming?

Is there one that allows you to run wider (10"+) tires?

Thanks,
Jason

 

thinking it over instead of moving brackets to the ford rear i'd sawp the axle tubes from a 10 bolt to the 9" and weld the 9" ends on the 10 bolt tubes, if it'd work. be lot easier and allow to set the width

 

cool idea ede. I was thinking of using the 9 bolt axles and tubes on the ford center. I thought about the brackets, i think I'll make some new brackets with extra holes to make it adjustable.

 

Are the tubes the same diameter on the 9" and a 10 bolt?

 

If you want an exact length drop in your going to need to dig up a 67 to when they changed that body style T-bird axle. It's nuts on exact length from backing plate to backing plate, drums stick out just a tad more then 10 bolts do but its not a issue that will cause any problems.

 

tube diameter differances could be over come with a spacer or weld build up and tunrning in a lathe. i'm guessing the 9" would be as large or larger than a 10 bolt.

 

MrDude1 I started off thinking exactly as you as I have made my own rear but there are a few things that I overlooked that perhaps will help you out. There has to be a certain amount of camber and toe designed into your rear or it will drive more like a truck and not a performance car and wear the tires out quickly. When you are dealing with a 55" long piece and have to factor in such small amounts of camber and toe all of a sudden things get a lot more technical because a few thousands off make the world of difference over that width span. I had to enlist the help of very talented Tool and Die maker to get things accurate. The brakes... Unless you want to run Ford brakes you will have to change the housing ends which also adds to the cost and the complexity. I would not EVER respline a set of factory axles as they become brittle and snap. Ask around at the local strip... No shop will even offer that service around here anymore because of the high instance of axles snapping. I hope this is of some help as it turned out to be a lot more difficult and costly than I had first envisioned. Good luck


edit: One other thing I forgot to mention with the nine inch its not an easy task to mount the factory sway bar. Good luck

 

Guys,

Sorry to change the subject ever so slightly, but I've got a question for ede.

I'm trying to track down a Dana 44 (who isn't, I guess). If I can track down the center section (the diff assy) for a Dana 44, is it possible to modify axle tubes from some other rear, along with the various mounting bracketry to work with the differential assy?

Thanks!

 

sure anything can be done given enough time and money. same as i said for the 10 bolt, i'd look at swapping the tubes to the new center section, dana, 9", or whatever. if that wasn't possiable for whatever reason i'd build a jig around the 10 bolts to locate the brackets then cut the brackets off the 10 bolt and set the new rear in the jig.